• Homepage
  • Destinations
  • About Me
  • Contact
  • Blogs I enjoy
Facebook Twitter Google+ Pinterest Instagram

Mum's Gone To …

Travel tales of an empty nester
  • Homepage
  • Destinations
  • About Me
  • Contact
  • Blogs I enjoy
Home  >  Blog  >  Mum’s gone to Switzerland: Basel

Mum’s gone to Switzerland: Basel

Trish Burgess Posted on09/10/201825/01/2019 Basel, city break in Basel, Switzerland, things to do in Basel 29 Comments
Tram in the old town of Basel
The busy Barfusserplatz in the centre of Basel

As a holiday destination, Switzerland brings to mind hiking in the mountains or walking by lakes. It doesn’t necessarily suggest city breaks. But it proved to be a wonderful country for city lovers. Dougie and I planned our Autumn break, taking in the cities of Basel, Bern and Lucerne (Luzern). We flew from Luton in the UK to Basel then took the train between each city before flying back from Zurich.

First stop: Basel.

A brief introduction to Basel

Switzerland’s only port, Basel is located on the River Rhine. Its proximity to France and Germany has made it a trade and transport hub over the centuries and this continues today. It’s an important centre of industry, specialising in pharmaceuticals, and is a location for trade fairs and congresses in Switzerland. But it’s also the cultural capital of Switzerland. Come to Basel if you appreciate art and design, theatre and museums. The city hosts the largest contemporary art fair every year and is well-known for its cutting edge architecture. Seven winners of architecture’s Pritzker Prize have buildings in and around the city, including local firm, Herzog & de Meuron, designers of London’s Tate Modern and Beijing’s Olympic Stadium.

 

Roche Tower in Basel
Roche Tower, pharmaceutical HQ designed by Herzog & de Meuron

Getting to Basel

The EasyJet flight from Luton is quite short (around 1 hour 40 minutes) and left at a very civilised time of 11.45am. As Basel sits on the border between Germany, Switzerland and France the airport, EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg, is administered by French and Swiss authorities. Unfortunately, the passport queues were very long. There didn’t seem to be enough officials working and we spent nearly as much time queueing as we did flying from the UK. I do hope this is just a blip as it is such a well-located airport. Another option would have been to fly direct to Zurich and catch a train to Basel from there.

Basel welcomes visitors

Once you’re through passport control, the city welcomes tourists with open arms. All visitors staying in the city are given a BaselCard for the duration of their stay. This card, unlike most city cards, doesn’t cost a penny. It offers free transport in the city, including the bus from the airport; 50% off museums and attractions including the zoo and the theatre; a sightseeing tour and Guest WiFi at many hot spots in the city. All these benefits made a huge difference to our short stay in Basel.

Spalentor city gate in Basel with tram in distance
Gothic Gate, Spalentor, with tram in the background

We made use of the efficient, frequent trams and buses, hopping on and off with no need to show our card or tap in. Visitors just need to have the card with them in case a ticket inspector gets on the tram. For the airport bus, hotel confirmation (printed out or just on your phone) is all that’s required, if asked. The discount on museums made sightseeing very affordable.

Where to stay in Basel

We chose the gorgeous historic hotel Der Teufelhof (meaning Devil’s Court) in the beautiful Old Town of Basel. There was a very handy tram stop just outside, making travel easier, even though much of Basel can be explored on foot. The hotel, comprising two 18th century townhouses, includes two restaurants (one, Bel Etage, is fine dining),  a bar, coffee lounge, wine cellar, theatre and brewery. What more could you ask for! The hotel has two different types of guest room: those in the Art Hotel are all unique, allowing guests to appreciate art in a new context. Those in the Gallery Hotel are furnished in a simple, contemporary style and offer different sizes including family suites.

Our bedroom, in the Art Hotel, was Room 8, ‘Just Tonight’. Decorated by artist Julia Steiner, along with the next door room, Number 7, ‘Just Today’, the room was very stylish. Black acrylic paint has been brushed onto the white walls, creating movement, shadows and unusual patterns. It was incredibly beautiful, in the eaves of the building, with the rooftop windows bringing so much light into the room. A smart Eames chair at the desk, coffee machine, Noir toiletries by The White Company: so many touches made this a well-designed bedroom not just an attractive space. Plus, like everything else in Switzerland, it was spotlessly clean. I’ve never known taps and basins to be so shiny. And, maybe my favourite pillow gift ever – a book of short stories.

Room 8 of Der Teufelhof, Basel
Room 8 of Der Teufelhof, Basel

Where to eat in Basel

There’s no hiding the fact that Swiss restaurants are expensive so you do have to box clever to avoid paying a king’s ransom for a bowl of pasta. During the day it can work out much cheaper finding pastries or pizza slices at city supermarkets and, in all three cities we visited, the train stations had some excellent bakeries and takeaways. Our favourite meal in Basel was found at 1777, a café, bar and restaurant which had such a great vibe and extremely friendly staff. Here you can use tick box forms to create your own baguettes and salads or, do as we did: order the classic 1777 burger for 15.90 CHF (Swiss Francs). This worked out at just over £12. It’s even cheaper if you choose to take away rather than eat in. It was here we also tasted the products from our hotel’s brewery, Stadmauer Brauer. I had a Heller Engel (light angel) and Dougie chose the Dunkler Teufel (dark devil). Excellent craft beers at similar prices to the UK. In general, beer was a much cheaper option than wine.

Another enjoyable beer was supped at Zum Kuss (to the kiss), in a very peaceful garden near the railway station. A park and arboretum have been created in this former cemetery. I read somewhere that the building used to be a mortuary or a chapel but, on further investigation (the architect’s website) it would seem it was the gardener’s house. Whatever its previous use, this café/bar has given a new lease of life to its surroundings…

Zum Kuss bar cafe in Basel
Zum Kuss café/bar

You can’t come to Switzerland and not indulge in some Swiss treats. Keep some francs back to feast on chocolate and cake. We made ‘Kaffee und kuchen’ a regular afternoon extravagance, as we did in Austria. We adored these two dreamy offerings from Conditorei Brandl on Wattstrasse.

Basel cakes

Sightseeing in Basel

Basel may be a centre for modern art and brave new architecture but visitors also flock to admire the exquisite medieval Old Town in this city of contrasts.

Old Town of Basel and river Rhine
The Old Town as seen from Kleinbasel across the Rhine

A saunter through the Old Town (Alstadt) will reward you with cobbled streets, shuttered houses and window-boxes groaning with flowers. Fountains are everywhere: there are over 180 of them in the city. Fill up your water bottles and appreciate the detail of the unusual designs. This medieval Basel is a treat: start at the 600 year old Spalentor city gate and lose yourself in the pretty streets where you’ll feel the urge to photograph every door.

One of 180 fountains in the Old Town

Admire the Munster (Cathedral) in the spacious Munsterplatz and the astonishing Rathaus (City Hall) with its painted red façade in Marktplatz. Walk across Mittler Brücke (Middle Bridge) but don’t miss Lällekönig (Tongue King) high on the wall, sticking his tongue out at the residents of Kleinbasel across the water. You could always take a ferry across the river: there are four special boats which are driven solely by the current: they will silently and gracefully take you to the other side.

Basel Marktplatz with Rathaus
Marktplatz with the striking red façade of the Rathaus (City Hall)

Kunstmuseum Basel

This museum of fine arts is housed in three separate building and holds the most comprehensive collection of public art in Switzerland. With our BaselCard discount, we only paid about £6.20 each to see all the permanent collections so it was well worth a canter round, especially when we found works we loved by Paul Klee, Picasso and Rousseau.

Interior of new wing of Kunstmuseum, Basel

The newest wing, opened in 2016, is a fabulous space for contemporary art and is linked to the original 1930s building by an underground passageway – just watch out for any strange floating figures as you walk down the stairs.

Staircase in Kunstmuseum, Basel

Spielzeug Welten Museum, Basel (Toy World Museum)

This incredible collection of over 6000 teddy bears, dolls houses and intricate miniatures soon became our favourite place in Basel. Our discounted entry fee of around £2.70 gave us access to teddies galore: teddies watching the Grand Prix, teddies at school, teddies on holiday and teddies in the bath. Beautiful bears, from all the world’s great makers, are on display but the clever and humorous way they are curated takes an extraordinary talent.


Toy World museum, Basel

The dolls houses are equally entrancing, as are the miniature shops with teeny tiny items on the shelves. There are also models of roundabouts and fun fair rides: press the button and see them come to life.

Any temporary exhibitions are also included in the admission price. We were fortunate to see a collection of jaw-dropping costumes designed for Venetian carnival balls.

This museum is a joy for adults and children. I can’t praise it enough.

Other attractions in Basel

What did we not get the chance to see? The Museum Jean Tinguely features the work of this wacky creator/scientist whose kinetic sculptures can be set in motion. Thankfully we could see some of his enchanting creations in the Tinguely Fountain in the centre of Basel.

We also missed the Paper Museum, which I hear is a huge hit with children. No time for the Music Museum nor the Natural History Museum nor the museum for the history of medicinal chemistry. It’s no surprise the slogan for Basel Tourism is ‘Culture Unlimited’.

I’ll write a separate post about our day trip from the city which included a wonderful 5km walk, Rehberger-Weg, between two impressive art/design establishments: the Fondation Beyeler and the Vitra Campus. This would make a great day out for families, with cool art installations to pass on the way and a chance to walk over the border to Germany.

Why we loved Basel

As the starting point for our stay in Switzerland, Basel was the perfect host. We were shown the old and the new along the banks of the mighty Rhine. Attractions were well organised, everywhere was clean, people were friendly and the city was enchanting. As we caught the tram to the railway station – we could have walked but, hey, it was free – we said goodbye to Basel and took the next step on our Swiss city journey. Next stop: Bern.


Door and flowers in Basel

“Untold
CulturedKids

Share this:

  • Email
  • Print
  • Facebook
  • Pocket
  • Pinterest
  • LinkedIn
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • Tumblr
  • Google
  • Skype

Related

Previous Article Tim Peake’s spacecraft at Peterborough Cathedral
Next Article 24 Stops Rehberger-Weg: 5km walking route between Switzerland and Germany

Related Posts

  • View of Lucerne from the city walls

    Mum’s gone to Switzerland: Lucerne

    02/11/2018
  • Mum’s gone to Switzerland: Bern

    23/10/2018
  • binoculars on 24 stops rehberger weg

    24 Stops Rehberger-Weg: 5km walking route between Switzerland and Germany

    18/10/2018

29 Comments

  1. California Globetrotter Reply
    12/10/2018 at 6:59 am

    I almost moved to Basel when I first moved to Germany, but I turned down a job there. I only saw the Germany portion of Basel and I didn’t like it, but the Swiss side looks wayyy more beautiful. You always stay in the chicest hotels too! #FarawayFiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      15/10/2018 at 1:42 pm

      It is a very industrialised city on the outskirts but, as a tourist, you don’t really see that as you can cherry pick the best bits! Glad you like my hotel choice – it was a very cool place to stay.

  2. Urska Reply
    12/10/2018 at 9:10 am

    Reading your post, I realised, I’ve been to Basel zoo and I flew out of Basel airport so many times, but I have never actually visited the Basel town. I really need to plan visit there soon. Thanks for this lovely post Trish! #FarawayFiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      15/10/2018 at 1:43 pm

      We didn’t make it to the zoo but made up for that in Bern, our next stop, when we visited the city’s bears!
      I hope Basel airport was smooth on your trips!

  3. Vicky Reply
    12/10/2018 at 10:31 am

    I love the sound of the BaselCard. Such a great idea! It looks like a great city to start your trip with. #farawayfiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      15/10/2018 at 1:45 pm

      I thought the BaselCard was such a generous thing for the city to offer. So many times you buy a city card and then spend the days making sure you get your money’s worth!

  4. Clare (Suitcases and Sandcastles) Reply
    12/10/2018 at 2:19 pm

    That card sounds like the perfect welcome for visitors. What a great idea! I’ve read great things about the Basel Christmas Market but you’ve really sold the town to me as a short break. All the museums sound brilliant and I like your tips about saving money on food. #FarawayFiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      15/10/2018 at 1:47 pm

      There were similar cards in Bern and Lucerne too. I do think other cities should consider this instead of charging.
      Ooh the Basel Christmas market – now there’s an idea!

  5. Katy Reply
    14/10/2018 at 5:12 am

    Ah Trish, Basel was the first place I visited in Switzerland and one of the first places I ever saw in continental Europe. I loved all the quaint cobbled streets and houses back then but I think I’d love the modernisation of the city too. Plus the cakes, always the cakes! #farawayfiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      15/10/2018 at 1:48 pm

      I hope I’ve brought back some happy memories of your visit. And yes, the cakes really were delicious!

  6. Tracy Reply
    16/10/2018 at 9:14 am

    I used to live in Basel many years ago and though I have been to Switzerland many more times (my mum bizarrely married a guy who lived in Zurich) I have never been back to Basel except to catch a flight to Luton. Definitely need a city break there at some point to reminisce!

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      16/10/2018 at 1:12 pm

      It’s really interesting to read these comments and discover people’s links to Basel. What a wonderful place to live and visit. I think you do need to pop back to rekindle those memories! 🙂

  7. Tilly Jaye Horseman Reply
    29/11/2018 at 8:28 pm

    As a huge culture vulture, Basel really appeals to me, but I think I’d need at least a week there to see all the museums I want to! I love the concept of the city card being free to anyone staying in the city! I don’t know anywhere else where you don’t have to pay for them, and in many cases you don’t really save anything overall. Nice one Basel! The hotel you stayed in here looks gorgeous: Very chic!!

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      18/01/2019 at 1:16 pm

      Sorry for my late reply! I think we could have easily spent a week there too – lots to see. The city card was a huge bonus. I’d never come across it before either and yet we had a similar experience with free travel in Bern and free travel plus reduced admission prices in Lucerne. Well done, Switzerland!

  8. Nell (Pigeon Pair and Me) Reply
    25/01/2019 at 10:12 am

    It sounds as though Basel’s a very easy city. Skipping from cake to coffee to beer to museum! Some great tips in here on where to eat and drink, and what to see – thanks. #CulturedKids

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      28/01/2019 at 12:11 pm

      It really is very easy to get about. Because the trams were free we sometimes became a bit lazy and just hopped on them – because we could!

  9. Scarlett Roitman Reply
    25/01/2019 at 10:23 am

    I’ve only ever been to the airport but desperate to head back to Art Basel one year (also a big fan of dolls houses and cake!) Some fantastic tips – thanks Trish #CULTUREDkids

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      28/01/2019 at 12:11 pm

      I’d love to go back during Art Basel too. It’s a super little city for a short break.

  10. Vyki from Museum Mum Reply
    25/01/2019 at 8:55 pm

    I’m sold! What a great idea to offer visitors free travel. I’m sure my little ones would love the Teddy bear museum too. Plus great cake! Am adding it to my travel wishlist #CulturedKids

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      28/01/2019 at 12:07 pm

      I’m surprised more cities don’t do this. I know most passes are pretty good value but making them complimentary was such a treat for a tourist. The cakes really were divine.

  11. Emma Raphael Reply
    26/01/2019 at 10:28 am

    What a wonderful place for a weekend break. When I think of Switzerland, it’s usually driving through the mountains and skiing which is the extent of it I have seen, I will now be suggesting this to Mr R! Thanks so much for joining in with #CulturedKids

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      28/01/2019 at 11:55 am

      It’s perfect for a short break. We loved our three city breaks in Switzerland. Now I’d like to go back and do the mountains!

  12. Nancy | MapandFamily Reply
    28/01/2019 at 7:03 pm

    Great tips Trish! I’d never really thought of visiting Basel but it looks pretty and there’s lots to do -plus the BaselCard! What a brilliant idea.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      29/01/2019 at 11:16 am

      Thanks Nancy. We had such a great time visiting the cities in Switzerland by train – each had something to offer and all so beautiful. The BaselCard is very generous and makes such a difference.

  13. Catherine’s Cultural Wednesdays Reply
    06/02/2019 at 9:36 pm

    Many many years ago my (now ex) husband used to work in Basel and so I used to visit often, it is beautiful city with so much to see and do. #CulturedKids

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      08/02/2019 at 11:50 am

      Ah that’s interesting to know you’re familiar with the city. All the Swiss cities we visited had their own special highlights. We had such a great trip.

  14. Pingback: Mum's gone to Switzerland: Lucerne - Mum's Gone To ...
  15. Pingback: 24 Stops Rehberger-Weg: 5km walking route between Switzerland and Germany - Mum's Gone To ...
  16. Pingback: Mum's gone to Switzerland: Bern - Mum's Gone To ...

Leave a Reply

Cancel reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Follow Me

Follow me on Bloglovin’

Follow

Subscribe to Blog via Email

Load More…Follow on Instagram

Random Visits

  • Mum’s Gone for a Dirty weekend – Photo lottery meme 15/03/2010
  • Book Review: Love in Small Letters by Francesc Miralles 13/10/2014
  • Review of South Lakeland Leisure Village 20/10/2016
Trips100 - Travel Blogs
Trips100

Meta

  • Register
  • Log in
  • Entries RSS
  • Comments RSS
  • WordPress.org
Privacy & Cookies: This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this website, you agree to their use.
To find out more, including how to control cookies, see here: Cookie Policy
Facebook Twitter Instagram Pinterest Youtube Google+

Recent Posts

  • TRish with Wallace on the gromit Unleashed 2 sculpture trail
    Happy Anniversary Trish Takes Five 30/01/2019
  • Vieux Bassin in Honfleur, France
    How to spend a few hours in Honfleur 24/01/2019
  • Dark pink flowers in Monet's garden
    Claude Monet’s garden in Giverny in summer 13/01/2019
  • Latona's fountain, Versailles
    An afternoon at the Gardens of Versailles 31/12/2018

Recent Comments

  • katy stern on How to spend a few hours in Honfleur
  • Trish Burgess on Mum’s gone to Switzerland: Basel
  • Trish Burgess on Happy Anniversary Trish Takes Five
  • Cristina - Memories of the Pacific on Happy Anniversary Trish Takes Five
  • Catherine’s Cultural Wednesdays on Mum’s gone to Switzerland: Basel
  • Trish Burgess on How to spend a few hours in Honfleur
  • Trish Burgess on An afternoon at the Gardens of Versailles
  • Trish Burgess on Happy Anniversary Trish Takes Five

Contact Us

To contact me, please visit my Contact page.
I take great interest in what all my readers and followers have to say.
You can email me at trish@mumsgoneto.co.uk

I'm on Twitter. Find me as @mumsgoneto
I'm on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/mumsgoneto
Instagram - mumsgoneto
Pinterest - Trish Burgess
Google plus - +TrishBurgess

To contact our website administrators:
79design logo
79DESIGN, Spalding, Lincolnshire

Website built and maintained by 79DESIGN websites Lincolnshire

loading Cancel
Post was not sent - check your email addresses!
Email check failed, please try again
Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email.