Note the use of the word ‘favorite’. I’m using the American spelling because, as I write this, I’m humming the Rogers and Hammerstein song from The Sound of Music. I did this a lot in Salzburg. Channelling my inner Julie Andrews, I was in musical heaven in this beautiful little city. I was tempted so many times to fashion a pinafore dress from the hotel curtains and dance around the city as I spotted familiar sights from the movie.
Salzburg is also the home of Mozart, so if your musical tastes gravitate to ‘a little night music’, you will be equally entranced.
Sightseeing with the Salzburg Card
We only had two days in Salzburg but armed with complimentary Salzburg Cards kindly given to us by the city’s tourist board, we were able to see many of the highlights and still have time to relax with the ubiquitous coffee and cake which had become our Austrian ritual from the meadows around Bad Goisern to the picturesque streets in Hallstatt. As Salzburg is quite small, it’s very easy to find your internal compass and feel comfortable with the layout of the city. We visited at the end of a week’s walking holiday in October but it is the perfect place for a weekend break in any season.
The Salzburg Card is available for 24, 48 and 72 hours and gives one-time free admission to all city tourist attractions and museums plus free travel on all public transportation. It currently costs from 24 to 42 euros for adults and 12 to 21 for children, depending on the number of hours and the time of year.
Where did we stay?
Our hotel, the Wolf-Dietrich, was in a quiet street, north of the Salzach River. It’s located in the New Town (Neustadt), very near the Mirabell Palace and only a short walk from the attractions in the Old Town (Altstadt). The highlights for me were the comfy bed, excellent breakfast in a very pretty dining room and the peaceful location, which was away from the tourist hub but near to many good restaurants. We really should have made use of the swimming pool, sauna and steam room in the hotel’s basement too – maybe next time. The apartments, just across the road from the hotel, would be a great option for families.
Do-re-mi at the Mirabell Palace
It really was a short skip from our hotel to the Schloss Mirabell. I refrained from dancing around the Pegasus fountain but admired the beautiful gardens: a small-scale version of Versailles. Before we arrived in the city, we booked a concert which was held in the Marble Hall, famous as a performance venue for Leopold Mozart and his children, Wolfgang and Nanneri.
Unless you happen to be at a wedding or award ceremony here, the only way visitors are able to see this magnificent, ornate room is to book one of the regular concerts. I can highly recommend it. We listened to the talented Parlante Ensemble playing pieces from Schubert, Mozart, Puccini and Dvorjak. The cost was 38 euros each and would have been a little cheaper if we had used our Salzburg cards once we were in the city. We preferred to book in advance, however, and be sure of a seat.
Climb ev’ry mountain up to the Hohensalzburg Fortress and Nonnberg Abbey
Dominating the city skyline is the striking Hohensalzburg Fortress, the largest completely preserved example in Europe, dating from the 11th century. You can climb up to the entrance or you can buy your ticket at the base and go by funicular. A basic ticket, which includes funicular ride, audio-guide and entrance to the fortress precincts and museums, costs 12 euros (free with Salzburg card). State rooms cost extra unless you box clever and enter before 11am.
Whilst you’re up above the city, take the opportunity to walk along to a panorama point, Richterhohe. This small plateau, on the Mönchsberg hill, offers more views over southern Salzburg and the edge of the Alps. This was such a beautiful walk, particularly as we were blessed with the autumnal colours of Salzburg on a day with temperatures of 20 degrees centigrade.
Or you could walk in the other direction (we decided to do this walk separately on our second day) to see another Sound of Music location: Nonnberg Abbey. Dougie and I entered the church so I could have another Julie Andrews fix, and it was here a little musical magic occurred. We were the only visitors at the time but were lucky enough to hear the angelic, melodic sound of the nuns singing. We couldn’t see them as they were in a separate part of the church, hidden from view, but the singing will stay with me forever. A very special moment.
The old and new in Salzburg
It’s a real joy to walk around Salzburg’s Old Town. Beautiful narrow streets lead to large, elegant squares. We made our way to Getreidegasse, Salzburg’s most famous street. The hub of the city since the 14th century, it’s renowned for its decorative guild signs above the shops. Even contemporary traders in the street have their own sign. How lovely to see a small, intricate, metal ‘M’ to represent McDonalds.
Look for the yellow, terraced house in Getreidegasse and you’ll find Mozart’s birthplace. If you have time you can visit this former home plus Mozart’s Residence in Markatplatz, in the New Town. We chose to visit his birthplace and enjoyed seeing exhibits such as various instruments belonging to the great composer. Both houses cost 11 euros to enter (3.50 for children) and both are free with the Salzburg Card.
As we meandered around the city it’s great to see some striking pieces of modern art. The city’s Walk of Modern Art throws up some fabulous pieces in the most surprising locations. We loved Sphaera, by Stephan Balkenhol, which, at 9 metres high, takes pride of place in Kapitelplatz near the cathedral.
In the Cathedral quarters we also found The Golden Bucephalus by Andjé Pietrzyk, a temporary exhibit until March 2018. Also 9m high, with its Murano glass eyes, this bronze, steel and concrete horse, famous steed of Alexander the Great, looked very much at home in its stately surroundings.
The Domquartier – a Baroque beauty
For 12 euros (free with Salzburg Card) you can immerse yourself in a Baroque bonanza as you use an audio guide to find your way through 15000 square metres of opulence. No photos allowed inside the state rooms but it’s a pleasure to absorb the exquisite rooms with their furnishings, treasures and artwork.
The cathedral (Dom) itself is free to enter so once you’ve looked down on it from the organ loft (included in the tour), re-enter the cathedral, take out your camera and crane your neck to photograph the inside of the dome.
Take a tour of the Festival Halls
For the small price of 7 euros (free for Salzburg Card holders) you can take a guided tour of the magnificent festival halls. There are three tours a day during July and August but only one opportunity at all other times, so we were delighted to fit this into our schedule as it was an unforgettable experience. It was listed as a 50 minute tour but our tour was much longer and so enlightening.
There are three main concert halls: the Large Festival Hall, the Summer Riding School and the House for Mozart. Operas, concerts and theatrical productions are performed here during the famous summer Salzburg Festival as well as throughout the year. Unfortunately rehearsals were underway in the Summer Riding School venue so we couldn’t go into the auditorium. This was such a shame as it was this extraordinary hall, carved into the rock, where the real and movie von Trapp family sang as an ensemble. Our guide made up for this disappointment by inspiring our small group as he showed us the two other halls. We walked onstage and saw all the activity going on behind the scenes too. I even sat in seat 21, row 12 in the House for Mozart which is Placido Domingo’s specially-reserved seat. Apparently its slightly off-centre position is the perfect spot for the acoustics.
We left the tour totally bowled over by the sheer size of the venues, the logistics and the eye-popping costs involved in staging some productions (25 million euros for a recent Aida) This tour, for me, was a stand-out highlight. They had trouble getting me off the stage and I wish now I’d at least tried out a few musical scales whilst I was up there.
All my other favorite things in Salzburg
- Having coffee and cake in Café Tomaselli, where the waiters take your drinks orders and the ‘cake ladies’ (kuchendamen) come to your table with their wares on a tray for you to choose. 300 years of trading and still in the hands of the same family.
- Children will love the Museum of Natural History and Technology (8 euros/free with Salzburg Card). It’s the perfect size to enthral but not overwhelm your little ones with its aquarium, reptile zoo and science centre.
- The Museum of Modern Art (Mönchsberg) (8 euros/free with Salzburg Card) had an unusual collection of acrylic cucumbers and pickled gherkins by artist Erwin Wurm. Called ‘self-portrait as pickles’ it featured 36 of them. Just as with people, according to Wurm, no two cucumbers are alike. There are more of Wurm’s glorious gherkins on a bigger scale near the Festival Halls ( see photo below). Trish’s top tip: M32 restaurant in the museum has a wonderful terrace with more superb views of Salzburg. Use the Mönchsberg lift (3.60 euros/free with card) to reach the terrace if you’re not visiting the museum itself.
There were also many attractions we didn’t have chance to see. An extra day would have been wonderful to visit Hellbrunn Palace with its trick fountains, Salzburg Zoo and, further afield, Schloss Leopoldskron, another famous location for The Sound of Music.
As we headed to the railway station to pick up the train to Vienna, we really didn’t want to leave Salzburg as this charming, sparkling little city had captured our hearts. But, as Rogers and Hammerstein are at pains to point out, when I’m feeling sad I should ‘simply remember my favorite things, and then I don’t feel so bad’.
We booked our own trip to Salzburg as an add-on from our Lakes & Mountains walking holiday with Inntravel.
The Salzburg Cards were complimentary from Tourismus Salzburg. All opinions are my own.
I haven’t been to Salzburg for years! I must go back and check out your favourite things!
You have no idea how much I miss having Salzburg an hour and a bit up the road! 😀 Those gherkins made me laugh. Such a gorgeous place for a weekend at the very least! 😀 xx
I have a very rude photo of Dougie with the gherkins that would have made you laugh even more!
No wonder you miss having Salzburg nearby – it’s a very special city.
I haven’t been to Salzburg for years, thanks for the reminder about how pretty it is! #citytripping
Isn’t it wonderful. I’m amazed I left it this long to visit.
What a great post! Salzburg really is so beautiful!!! #CityTripping
You are so lucky to have this beauty in your country, Lisa.
As a fan of the Sound of Music, I don’t need any persuading to visit Salzburg but your post has made me want to book my ticket! What a wonderful city: picturesque, historical and plenty of culture. Excellent photos helped by the lovely sunny weather! Thanks for linking to #citytripping
You will love Salzburg, Elizabeth. It has everything in a little package (tied up with string!!)
I’d love to visit it this year!
I hope you get to visit as Salzburg is now one of my favourite cities – it was so easy to get around and so pretty.
We visited Salzburg a few years ago, pre-parenting, and I’d forgotten how beautiful the city was – thanks for reminding me with your stories and photos!
#citytripping
I can’t believe I left it so long before paying Salzburg a visit. Happy to have brought back some memories for you.
Your post reminds me how much I need/want to go back during the summer when the skies are blue and the flowers are in bloom! Plus, to spend more time and go inside the Mirabell Palace! #CityTripping
Isn’t it the most gorgeous place. We had such fabulous weather in October – bright and sunny yet not too warm for sightseeing. The Mirabell Palace was exquisite.
I’d love to go to Salzburg! I had hoped to visit on a day trip when we were in Vienna last year, but the timing never quite worked. I’ll just have to return to get my Sound of Music fix. I’d love to see Hallstatt along the way, too. #citytripping
I do hope you manage to get to Salzburg sometime as I was so entranced by it – it’s the perfect little city. And yes, do Hallstatt too!
I visited Salzburg many years ago and was able to return last year. During my first visit, I didn’t have tons of time. On the second visit, I was able to take in a lot of this beautiful city. I love every corner of it I want to go back, stay there and visit the nearby lakes (and castles). #citytripping
I totally agree: it is a beautiful city. Like you, I’d love to return and explore it more fully. It really isn’t too far for me to take a flight there so a few more weekend breaks would be wonderful.
I’ve been to Salzburg three times now and never made it to the fortress. The Salzburg card seems like a great value, especially getting to see the Festival Halls! That’s too cool!! I really love the old town and the signs you mention – it’s so quaint. We stayed at the Goldener Hirsch on our last trip, so I spent a lot of time checking them all out. 🙂 #Citytripping
The Festival Halls tour was unbelievably good value and so interesting. Your hotel is fabulous – and what a location! No wonder you were checking out all the guild signs.
What a wonderful city. We’ve never been but it looks so pretty and with so many wonderful buildings #citytripping
There are so many fantastic cities in the world but Salzburg was exceptionally pretty and so doable in a short time.
I have been to Saltzburg. I may even have played some music there. For the absolute life of me, I can remember nothing else about it, which just goes to show you that teenagers are stupid, as the place looks great. It’s probably a character failure that it’s the pickled cucumbers that are particularly appealing though.
Isn’t that always the way, you don’t always appreciate places when you’re young.
Your character must be the same as ours as we had a good giggle at the pickled cucumbers too.
Salzburg has been on my list for a while! Thank you for sharing your guide, great tips!
#FarawayFiles
I hope it moves up your list and you get to experience it – I’d recommend it so much.
I don’t know how many times I have watched the musical Sound of Music – countless times! I know the lyrics and dialogues by heart – the film is such a classic – I can still watch it now and will never get tired of it 🙂 I really love pics of the old part of Salzburg and it’s nice to know that they were able to blend in contemporary art pieces in the old quarter really well. #Citytripping
Like you, I’m a huge fan. My mum took me to see the film when I was three years old and I sat through the whole move. Loved it ever since.
Salzburg really does blend old and new very well.
I am a huge fan of SOM and the title of this post was an instant attraction. We did a SOM tour and had an absolute ball and would visit Salzburg again in a heartbeat. What a great post.
I did think about doing a Sound of Music tour – I bet that was great fun. Next time I’ll have to give it a go, as I’m definitely going back sometime.
Salzburg is so pretty! I remember visiting there a couple of decades ago and loved it. What fun things to do Trish – I love the sound of the concert. My mum would too so I’m passing on to her as my parents are visiting Salzburg later this year #FarawayFiles
I’m sure your mum would love the concert: it’s a very intimate setting as well as being opulent.
Just love your Sound of Music guide to Salzburg, Trish. What a thrill it must have been to hear the nuns singing. As someone who spent her entire girl guide camp weekend singing Raindrops on Roses at the top of her voice, I would adore this trip – and I’ve always fancied going to Salzburg anyway! #FarawayFiles
We visited this charming town when I was a child and I still remember visiting Mozart’s birthplace and the trick fountains! Your photos are lovely and make me want to get back there asap! #farawayfiles
We went to Salzburg a couple years ago and one of my favorite memories from our whole Europe trip was sitting at a cafe in the Hohensalzburg Fortress, drinking an Austrian beer and taking in the stunning views of the Alps! I wish we had thought to book a concert, what a great idea! #farawayfiles
Sign me up to see the cake ladies! Haha! It’s been many many many years since I’ve sauntered through Salzburg. Forgot how beautiful it is. Thank you for sharing with #FarawayFiles
I think all cafes should have cake ladies! I’m surprised I left it so long to visit – it was absolutely charming.
My favorite things? The image of you dancing round that fountain, I know you didn’t but ….. and that shot of the dome. Thank you for linking up to #CulturedKids
I’ve wanted to visit Salzburg ever since I watched the Sound of Music as a kid. And from your photos, it looks as beautiful as it does in the movie. I think I’d make a beeline to the cathedral first. It looks gorgeous here! #CulturedKids
I was the same. It was the first film my mum took me to see at the cinema when I was about three! It is beautiful – it didn’t disappoint.
I miss having it an hour and a half up the road… Thanks so much for joining in with #culturedkids Trish! Love this post! x
Imagine having Salzburg so close to home – how amazing is that! You’ve got me about that distance away now! 🙂
It looks so beautiful and I would be completely fascinated by all the musical connections. It would be special to listen to Mozart and Dvojak in an ornate Salzburg hall. #CulturedKids
For such a small city, it’s bursting with music and history. I’m sure you’d love it!