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Home  >  Blog  >  How to spend 48 hours in Vienna

How to spend 48 hours in Vienna

Trish Burgess Posted on19/12/201707/03/2019 Austria, Inntravel, Things to do in Vienna, Vienna 35 Comments
Hofburg Palace, St Michael's Wing, Vienna
Evening view of St Michael’s Wing, Hofburg Palace,

48 hours in Vienna only gives visitors a snapshot of Austria’s capital city but it can be just enough to entrance you with its beauty and tempt you to return another day. Arriving by train at lunchtime from Salzburg, we had one full day and two half-days to canter round Vienna, which seemed totally at odds with the Slow Travel ethos we had adopted from Inntravel on our Lakes and Mountains walking holiday the previous week. But somehow the idea of taking time to explore in a leisurely fashion remained firmly in place. There was no ticking off a list of ‘top ten highlights’ on this trip but we did discover the essence of the city with some clever sightseeing decisions.

Use the Vienna City Card to make travel easier

A city card, giving you access to free transport, does make life easier when you’re visiting a city for the first time. We were very grateful to the Vienna Tourist Board for supplying us with a Vienna City Card to use during our stay. As Vienna is a lot bigger than Salzburg, you probably won’t want to walk everywhere. The City Card enabled us to use buses, trams and the metro to get around. Discounted entry to many attractions, shops and restaurants was also included. You can, if you wish, swap the free public transport for the hop-on, hop-off Big Bus Tours of Vienna.

There is another card available to tourists, the Vienna City Pass. This isn’t supplied by the tourist board. If your aim is to gain entry to a large number of attractions, it’s a consideration and I’d certainly recommend you compare the offer from both suppliers to see what suits your needs. In terms of price, the Vienna City Card, which we used, costs 21.90 euros for 48 hours of free public transport and discounted entry to most attractions. The Vienna City Pass costs 78.30 euros for 48 hours with free entry into many attractions plus free use of the Vienna Sightseeing hop-on, hop-off bus (for an extra 13.30 euros you can purchase a travelcard for public transport).

You just need to weigh up how many museums and galleries you wish to visit. The weather may influence your decisions here…

If the weather is good, admire attractions from the outside

When we arrived in Vienna we were initially overwhelmed by the scale of the city and its opulent buildings. But as we didn’t have time for everything, we made the most of the warm Autumn weather to appreciate Vienna’s gifts from the outside. The Natural History Museum is a striking edifice and one of my favourite photographs from our stay made use of the late afternoon light which captured the architecture perfectly.

Natural History Museum in Vienna
Natural History Museum

You could easily spend a full day at Schloss Schönbrunn, the dazzling summer residence of the Hapsburgs. There are tickets available for palace tours, the Sisi Museum and the Imperial Furniture Collection. It’s definitely on the list for a return visit to Vienna but on a sunny October day, a slow amble through the gardens and up to the Gloriette monument was a wonderful way to pass a couple of hours. The gardens are free and our city card allowed us to jump on the metro which took us swiftly to the palace gates.

Schönbrunn Palace in Vienna
Schönbrunn Palace and gardens

Save interiors for a rainy day

Our final morning was a bit grey and damp and as this was predicted, we planned a visit to the Belvedere, the palace complex which is home to stunning art and, of particular note, the world’s largest collection of paintings by Gustav Klimt. The ornate golden pictures of The Kiss and Judith, in the Upper Belvedere, are matched only by the mirrored extravagance of the Golden Room in the Lower Belvedere.

Golden Room, Belvedere, Vienna
Mirrors in Golden Room, Lower Belvedere

Plan some evening sightseeing

Our accommodation was the Hotel Kaiserhof, an elegant establishment just outside of the Ringstrasse within which many of the famous buildings are located.  From here we had easy access to public transport but we were also very close to the Naschmarkt, the huge permanent daily market, a popular meeting place for the Viennese. We realised on our first afternoon that the market had lots of restaurants which stayed open as the market began to close for the day. By having an early dinner at the market, we were able to rest when I’m usually flagging, and continue our exploration of Vienna for a few more hours after dinner.

After some delicious Asian food at Yumi, we headed for Prater Park, via the metro. Here we took a ride on Vienna’s famous giant Ferris Wheel. There were no queues, the park itself was quiet and the views over the city at night-time were spectacular.

GIant Ferris Wheel in Prater Park, Vienna
Night-time fun in Prater Park

On our second night, after a romantic Italian meal at Trattoria Pulcinella in the Naschmarkt, we walked to Austria’s State Library to visit the baroque hall, the Prunksaal. On Thursday evenings the library is open until 9pm so we were able to see the exquisite interior at a quiet time. It was awesome in the true sense of the word. To wander around, unrushed and relaxed, was another Slow Travel moment to treasure.

Prunksaal, Austria State Libray, Vienna
Ceiling of the Prunksaal

The Sound Museum (Haus der Musik) isn’t on everyone’s must-see list for Vienna but when it’s open until 10pm every night, and you fancy having lots of fun when the children aren’t hogging all the interactive displays, it’s well worth a visit. This museum was a huge hit with us. It’s where the traditional –  the great composers, operas and Viennese Balls – meets the progressive – perception lab, polyphonium and instrumentarium.

I ran up and down the keyboard staircase, just like Tom Hanks in the movie, Big. Again and again. Such a child. Dougie and I rolled dice to create our own waltz composition and tried out the NAMADEUS, where we turned our names into an original Mozart melody. Originally created for his piano student Franziska von Jacquin in 1787, this musical game ‘KV 516f’ sets music to letters of the alphabet.

The highlight was virtually conducting the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra. Here’s a little snippet of my woeful attempt at the Blue Danube. It all ended badly with a severe ‘telling-off’ from one of the musicians, who was very disappointed when I stopped too early. My tip here is, no matter how quick or slow you conduct, make sure you carry on until the end. Dougie’s timing was abysmal but he still received a standing ovation at the end. Not that I’m bitter…

 

If you want to know more about this museum, check out posts from fellow bloggers, Emma (A Bavarian Sojourn) and Sarah (Family Travel Times). It was reading their experiences of the Haus Der Music that put it firmly on our Vienna list.

Make some time for something you really want to see

I was familiar with Friedensreich Hundertwasser (1928-2000), a famous Viennese architect and artist, and vowed to make time to see his museum and nearby apartment block so I could see his colourful, bizarre, rule-breaking work for myself. It’s a little further out from the centre so we took the tram, making use of the free transport provided by our Vienna City Card. Photos aren’t allowed in most of the galleries within the Museum Hundertwasser (Kunst Haus Wien) but I can share the glorious design of the exterior, which will give you some idea of how gifted and inspired this man was. There’s more than a touch of Gaudi in his style and it’s remarkable to think his designs were accepted for a number of buildings including a hotel in Austria, a railway station in Germany and a winery in California.

museum hundertwasser vienna
Exterior of Museum Hundertwasser

Do make sure you walk down the street to see Hundertwasserhaus, the apartment block which he designed in conjunction with Josef Krawina and where people are still living, albeit in a goldfish bowl as tourists congregate to take photographs.

Hundertwasserhaus, Vienna
Hundertwasserhaus with autumn adornments

Always stop for kaffee und kuchen

You’re in Vienna so it’s the law (probably) to stop for coffee and cake at least once during your stay. Café Central, on the corner of Herrengasse and Strauchgasse, is one of Vienna’s finest. A big thank you to everyone who recommended it to me in advance (and there were many). It has been a popular rendezvous since 1876, just the place to meet with your companions, Freud and Trotsky, to discuss politics, philosophy and literature of the day. Or you could just sit and people-watch, like we did. The smart waiters weave their way around the tables, the atmosphere is elegant and stylish and it’s buzzing with conversation. Take your pick from the selection of cakes on offer, sit back, and let the history and traditions of Austria’s café society soothe you. That’s Slow Travel, Viennese-style.

Cakes at Cafe Central in Vienna
Himbeer Harmonie was my choice

We were given two complimentary Vienna City Cards by the Vienna Tourist Board, to use during our stay.

We booked our own trip to Vienna as an add-on from our Lakes & Mountains walking holiday with Inntravel.

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35 Comments

  1. Shweta Reply
    20/12/2017 at 9:38 am

    Loved the post. So many interesting things to do in Vienna. I would love to visit with my family someday.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      20/12/2017 at 3:21 pm

      Thanks Schweta. It’s great to get around via public transport so a good place for families.

  2. Nell (Pigeon Pair and Me) Reply
    20/12/2017 at 11:36 am

    Ha ha – I wish the video clip had included your telling-off! I spent a similar amount of time in Vienna, over twenty years ago. Hunderwasser featured on our itinerary, too! And it’s the feature I remember most of the city. I’d love to go back soon.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      20/12/2017 at 3:23 pm

      I may well have to upload my clip of the dressing down – and me giggling in the background!
      Isn’t’ Hundertwasser incredible! We’ve often thought about visiting the hotel which was designed by him – looks wacky and wonderful.

  3. Emma Raphael Reply
    20/12/2017 at 2:46 pm

    Thanks for including me Trish, so glad you loved the House of Music, and loved one of my favourite cities. Every week I check the papers for jobs for Mr R there, it’s just so beautiful! Great post! xx

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      20/12/2017 at 3:25 pm

      Reading blogs, especially yours, has led to some great discoveries for me, especially in Austria. That pizzeria/bowling alley in Obertraun was another treat! xx

      • Emma Raphael Reply
        09/01/2018 at 8:53 pm

        The latter being slightly more surreal though! I do wish you had made it to the 80’s weird disco bar! 😀 Thank you. Likewise. xx

        • Trish Burgess Reply
          16/01/2018 at 4:59 pm

          Yes, I’m sorry too. Another time, maybe!x

  4. Jen from Jenography.net Reply
    01/01/2018 at 12:05 pm

    Fab tips! I’d never really thought of Vienna when considering where to go, but you make it look spectacular and manageable even if you only have a weekend. Must go!

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      16/01/2018 at 5:06 pm

      It’s a very handsome city, Jen. I’d have preferred a longer stay but we did absorb so much of the city’s vibe in those two days.

  5. beatravelling Reply
    23/01/2018 at 9:11 am

    I had forgotten about the Hundertwasser building, so unfortunately I missed out. But the cakes are rich and plenty 🙂 #citytripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      23/01/2018 at 1:04 pm

      You can always visit another time to see the Hundertwasser building. Cakes do take priority!

  6. Esther Reply
    23/01/2018 at 10:04 am

    I totally agree on this article! We use the Vienna Card as well and since the weather was lovely, we pretty much wandered around taking everything in. If you’d like to see a bit outside the city centre, I highly recommend renting a bike!
    #CityTripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      23/01/2018 at 1:01 pm

      I think the weather often dictates what you see on a city break. It’s good to be flexible so you don’t have to chase the must-sees. Renting a bike sounds exciting.

  7. Keri | Ladies What Travel Reply
    23/01/2018 at 10:09 am

    This is a city I’ve wanted to visit for such a long time, I might just have to book me a weekend trip soon lol! #citytripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      23/01/2018 at 12:59 pm

      I was like that, Keri – kept thinking about it but never got round to booking. I would highly recommend it as it’s the perfect size for a weekend break.

  8. Mellissa Williams Reply
    23/01/2018 at 2:58 pm

    I adored Cafe Central in Vienna. It’s such an iconic cafe and your photo of the cakes have brought all the memories back. Vienna is beautiful with amazing architecture. I would go back in a heart beat and check out some of the places you recommend, like the Sound Museum. #CityTripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      25/01/2018 at 4:16 pm

      Café Central was a great recommendation and I love that such an iconic place was easy to visit. No booking – just a short wait – and everyone welcome.

  9. California Globetrotter Reply
    23/01/2018 at 10:19 pm

    So glad you gad a lovely time in Vienna! It’s a special place for me and you definitely saw the best of the best! #CityTripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      25/01/2018 at 4:14 pm

      I’m pleased you approve of our itinerary! I can see why it’s such a special place for you.

  10. Brooke of Passport Couture Reply
    24/01/2018 at 3:24 am

    Those Viennese pastries look amazing! My sister and her husband traveled to Vienna a couple of years ago and loved the city’s food, architecture, and sight-seeing. I’m glad to see you feel the same way. Friedensreich Hundertwasser’s work would be amazing to see in person, and I would love to stop in the Sound Museum. It’s such a clever idea to have a museum just for sound!

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      25/01/2018 at 4:13 pm

      We probably only touched the surface of this great city but certainly had a wonderful time in those two days. I’m glad your sister and her husband enjoyed Vienna too.
      I’m keen to see more of Hundertwasser’s work – so that will mean more trips to Austria or Germany or maybe California!

  11. Nicola Reply
    24/01/2018 at 8:07 am

    That kind of slow travel works for me!
    #citytripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      25/01/2018 at 4:10 pm

      It was definitely a chilled weekend.

  12. Sara Reply
    24/01/2018 at 2:52 pm

    We really love Cafe Central, too. We’ve been to Vienna twice (April and December), and we’re still trying to figure out what we love the most about the city. We feel like we’ve missed a lot of the interiors, although the Schonbrunn tour is definitely one of our top experiences. The architecture is so grand though – I just love to wander around and check it out! Plus… the Christmas lights are absolutely captivating (though it was very, very, very cold). #citytripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      25/01/2018 at 4:01 pm

      I think we must all miss something when we take these city breaks. There were big chunks we missed too – I look at my maps and realise there were a number of must-sees I didn’t see at all, even from the outside.
      A Christmas visit sounds good – I imagine they do ‘sparkling’ very well.

  13. Bryna | Dotted Line Travels Reply
    25/01/2018 at 3:02 am

    I would love to visit Vienna, I think I even had a dream that I was there once! In my dream, I was awed by the beautiful architecture and while seeing your photos, I was awed again! The Sound Museum sounds totally up my alley if it’s as interactive as the EMP Museum in Seattle. I also love that it’s open late. Sometimes I struggle with finding things to do at night when most things are closed!

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      25/01/2018 at 3:59 pm

      That sounds like a great dream to have and pretty accurate too.
      The Sound Museum is such a great attraction for a late night visit. Sometimes you don’t just want to go for a long restaurant meal and a bar – it’s nice to mix it up a bit.
      Will have to investigate the EMP museum.

  14. Cathy (Mummytravels) Reply
    25/01/2018 at 7:37 pm

    Vienna is one of those cities that I read people’s posts, marvel at the architecture, drool over the cakes, realise how many quirky things there are to do… and yet I’ve only ever spent a day there, which was mostly a blur in retrospect. I love some of the things you’ve done too, such a great idea to enjoy the views from the wheel after dark, and having read Sarah’s post about the Haus der Musik, it’s something I’d love to do. I flatter myself I would prove and undiscovered maestro at conducting naturally… thanks for linking up with #citytripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      29/01/2018 at 10:43 am

      I did find Vienna a bit overwhelming at first, especially after Salzburg, so I can imagine a day there would feel a bit of a blur.
      I’m sure you’d be a conducting genius – just keep going and you’ll have the applause!

  15. Kat Reply
    28/01/2018 at 8:26 am

    Having coffee and cake (and some chocolates too) in Vienna is something that I MUST do, absolutely 🙂 Good to know that Vienna has interesting architectural designs such as the Hundertwasser buildings – have always assumed Vienna is mainly opulent palaces and museums.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      29/01/2018 at 10:23 am

      Vienna is very grand and opulent so the Hundertwasser was such a fantastic contrast. I think you would love Vienna and you’d certainly love the cake. 🙂

  16. Catherine's Cultural Wednesdays Reply
    29/01/2018 at 10:09 pm

    We only had 4 hours in Vienna but keen to return #CityTripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      05/02/2018 at 1:47 pm

      Now that is a quick visit!

  17. Pingback: Swiss Railing Bliss with Inntravel | A Bavarian Sojourn

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