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Home  >  Blog  >  The love story of Pedro and Inês in Coimbra, Portugal

The love story of Pedro and Inês in Coimbra, Portugal

Trish Burgess Posted on16/02/201710/08/2017 Coimbra, hotel, Inntravel, Portugal 28 Comments

The city of Coimbra in Portugal is known for its ancient university but it’s also the location for the tragic but true tale of devotion between Pedro and Inês, the Romeo and Juliet of Portugal. What better way to celebrate Valentine’s Day than to share their story.

In 1339 Prince Pedro, son of King Afonso IV of Portugal, married Constance of Castile, in an alliance which joined two Iberian powers. However Pedro fell in love with his new wife’s hand-maiden, noblewoman Inês de Castro. The affair was widely known and the pair had four children together. Constance died in childbirth in 1349 but Pedro refused to marry anyone else apart from his beloved Inês who was deemed not suitable to be the future Queen of Portugal.

King Afonso, frustrated at his son’s stubbornness and anxious about the stability of the alliance, arranged for three assassins to go to Coimbra and kill Inês. Pedro, enraged, rebelled against his father and a civil war ensued.

Assassination of Inês de Castro by Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro (Wikimedia Commons)

When Pedro was eventually crowned King, he announced that he had already married Inês in secret before she was murdered. He ordered her body to be exhumed and forced the entire court to swear allegiance to her corpse. Two of the assassins were eventually captured and legend has it that Pedro ripped their hearts out with his bare hands because they had torn his heart out when they had murdered his beloved.

Inês’ body was moved to a sarcophagus in the Monastery of Alcobaca. Pedro’s own tomb was placed opposite hers so that, on Judgement Day, they can look upon each other as they rise from their graves.

Quinta das Lagrimas hotel

Our hotel in Coimbra was the exquisite Quinta das Lágrimas (Estate of Tears). It was a former palace built in the gardens of the convent where Inês lived. It was in these grounds that Pedro would send her love letters in small wooden boats along the stream from the Fonte dos Amores (Fountain of Loves) and later, in these woods, where she was brutally killed.  It is believed that the tears of Inês, shed as she was attacked, triggered the Fonte das Lágrimas (Fountain of Tears) and that rocks below are stained red with her blood, though in truth it’s most probably caused by a red algae present in the stream.

Quinta das lagrimas garden

The gardens of the estate are extensive and quite magical, featuring a number of rare trees. Two sequoias, with the most extraordinary roots,  were given as a gift by the Duke of Wellington who stayed at the Quinta during his military campaigns.

Sequoia tree quinta das lagrimas

Pedro and Inês have been immortalised in plays, poems and ballets in Portugal so it’s no surprise that the hotel should also celebrate the doomed couple. There are a number of books about the pair in the library and even the ceiling in our suite (we were upgraded) featured paintings of them.

We decided to pay tribute to the besotted lovers by choosing the special Pedro and Inês menu in the hotel’s restaurant, Arcadas. Run by chef Albano Lourenço and consultant chef Joachim Koerper (who runs Lisbon’s Michelin-starred Eleven), Arcadas is featured in the Michelin Guide and rightly so. The special lovers meal included an amuse bouche of duck ravioli and starter of octopus and scallops but culminated in separate male and female desserts of a sweet forest and a delicious crème brûlée.

Photo courtesy of Quinta Das Lagrimas Hotel

Of course we couldn’t resist trying the special Pedro and Inês wine which combines the strong, masculine Baga grape (to represent Pedro) with the softer, aromatic Alfrocheiro (for Inês) creating a balanced red wine, a tribute to the forbidden lovers.

The ghost of Inês is supposed to walk the gardens and her cries of desperation can be heard in the woods as she searches for her lover, Pedro. We didn’t see any ghosts or hear any cries but we left Coimbra totally captivated by the tragic tale.

This piece was originally written for my weekly column in the Lincolnshire Free Press but I couldn’t resist sharing it with you here…with added photos.  

Disclosure: We booked our own holiday with Inntravel but were offered a discount in exchange for a review of the trip. All opinions are my own.

Inntravel (inntravel.co.uk 01653 617000) offers On the Waterfront, a walking and rail discovery of Portugal’s three great cities, Lisbon, Coimbra & Porto from £580pp based on two sharing including 6 nights’ B&B in 4-star hotels, self-guided city walking tours, and rail journeys Lisbon to Coimbra & Coimbra to Porto. Available 2 January-24 December. Flights (cost extra) into Lisbon and out Porto. The holiday can be taken in the opposite direction, flying into Porto and out Lisbon.

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Previous Article On the Waterfront in Portugal with Inntravel
Next Article A tale in three cities: literary delights in Porto, Coimbra and Lisbon

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28 Comments

  1. Katy Clarke Reply
    16/02/2017 at 9:55 am

    Oh poor tragic Inês! What a story of passion and power. The story is enchanting and your hotel was divine Trish. I would love to stay at Quinta das Lágrimas and try the menu. Exactly my type of experience. Thank you so much for sharing on #farawayfiles PS Love the blog makeover!

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      16/02/2017 at 11:30 am

      I know, poor Inês, Pedro and, of course, Constance who didn’t do very well out of this at all!
      The food was delicious – apologies for no photos but it seemed wrong to spoil the romance of it all by whipping my phone out.

  2. Tanja (the Red phone box travels) Reply
    16/02/2017 at 10:37 am

    what a story! #farawayfiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      16/02/2017 at 11:28 am

      Yes! Thanks for commenting, Tanya.

  3. Lolo Reply
    16/02/2017 at 11:55 am

    What a tragically romantic story and such a fun way to discover and share it! Love the new blog layout! #FarawayFiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      16/02/2017 at 4:08 pm

      I loved how everything linked to the story, but in a very classy way.
      The layout is the same as it’s been for months – I wonder what you’re seeing as different? x

  4. Catherine's Cultural Wednesdays Reply
    16/02/2017 at 3:28 pm

    The Quinta looks fabulous, what an amazing story, I can’t help feeling a bit sorry for Constance too! #FarawayFiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      16/02/2017 at 4:10 pm

      She seems to be forgotten in the stories but it can’t have been much fun for her, with everyone knowing about her husband’s infidelities. Let’s hope she had a lover of her own!

  5. Phoebe | Lou Messugo Reply
    16/02/2017 at 4:32 pm

    Oh that lovers’ menu…I’m absolutely salivating. What a passionate and gory tale! #farawayfiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      16/02/2017 at 5:25 pm

      Our food all week in Portugal was fabulous but this meal was sensational.

  6. Kat Reply
    16/02/2017 at 7:09 pm

    Well that was brutal. No one got to be happy in that story 🙁 But I love hearing these legends anyway. #FarawayFiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      17/02/2017 at 1:23 pm

      I agree – very brutal. But very interesting to see the places linked to the story and appreciate how the tale has been told over the centuries.

  7. Clare (Suitcases and Sandcastles) Reply
    16/02/2017 at 9:01 pm

    What a tragic tale. I do love stories like this – I must say I’d have been listening out for those ghostly noises in the night – a story as juicy as this is just the sort of thing to make my imagination go into overdrive! Those gardens are indeed enchanting and remind me of the stunning gardens we saw in Sintra. I’d have been in heaven with that meal and delicious sounding wine. Thanks for sharing with us on #farawayfiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      17/02/2017 at 1:21 pm

      I couldn’t get a decent photo of the ceiling in our room – there were two huge images of Pedro and Inês above our bed, a bit disconcerting!
      I really wish we had gone to Sintra but we just didn’t have time – I was looking at your photos again and I need to go back, but on a sunny day. Lisbon was very cloudy when we were there so the colours didn’t quite sparkle – but we could walk for miles and not get too hot, so swings and roundabouts.

  8. Corey @ fifi + hop Reply
    16/02/2017 at 9:40 pm

    Love this! Though so tragic. What a story. The hotel, meal and wine sounds like a total experience. #farawayfiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      17/02/2017 at 1:18 pm

      I found the whole story fascinating, especially knowing it was true – tragic for everyone. I would go back to the hotel like a shot – and have that meal a hundred times over.

  9. Ahila Reply
    19/02/2017 at 8:25 am

    What a tragic ending for the lovers! The convent and the gardens look very atmospheric. I would love to stay at Quintas das Lágrimas, when I visit Coimbra.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      19/02/2017 at 5:51 pm

      One of the most wonderful hotel experiences we’ve ever had – the way everything was magical. Would go again in a heartbeat.

  10. Nana GoGo Reply
    19/02/2017 at 9:44 am

    Hey Trish, you’re here!!Wondered where you’d got to and eventually tracked you down. My last excursion to Coimbra was when we were going to stay with a friend’s friend in a villa on the foothills, in 40 degree heat, with no swimming pool and no air conditioning. I took heatstroke and thought they were going to have to bring me home in a box! We never mention Portugal too often now!! Your trip was eventful too, in a god way. Great to ‘see’ you again.

    • Nana GoGo Reply
      19/02/2017 at 9:45 am

      ‘in a good way’, even!

      • Trish Burgess Reply
        19/02/2017 at 5:50 pm

        You found me! I wasn’t lost but I did spruce myself up a bit last April and took all my old blog posts with me. Great to connect again – will come over to see what you’ve been up to.
        It was a pleasant 15 degrees and a bit drizzly in Coimbra when we were there – we kept saying, as we hoofed up the hills, thank god it’s not the height of summer! Glad you survived, Nana!

  11. Erin Gustafson Reply
    19/02/2017 at 10:42 am

    What a beautiful tragedy in such a lovely setting. I love those twisty rooted trees and the dinner wounded amazing! Happy Valentine’s Day to you! Thanks for sharing with #FarawayFiles, Erin

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      19/02/2017 at 5:45 pm

      The short time we spent in Coimbra was magical – the hotel, its grounds, the love story surrounding it – the memories will stay with me for a long time.

  12. Birgit | Groove Is In The Heart Reply
    19/02/2017 at 8:07 pm

    Such a tragic tale! Poor Pedro and Inês, who shed so many tears that it triggered a fountain… love that!

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      21/02/2017 at 12:45 pm

      Such a sad tale but such a beautiful spot. Thanks so much for commenting.

  13. Emma Reply
    27/02/2017 at 12:03 pm

    I have a Portugese friend with a little girl called Ines, and I had thought the name quite unusual, what an interesting story, and a beautiful place!

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      27/02/2017 at 1:25 pm

      Ah, so now you know! It must be a very well-loved girl’s name.

  14. Pingback: A high degree of luxury and learning in Coimbra, Portugal - Mum's Gone To ...

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