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Home  >  Blog  >  A tale in three cities: literary delights in Porto, Coimbra and Lisbon

A tale in three cities: literary delights in Porto, Coimbra and Lisbon

Trish Burgess Posted on20/02/201710/08/2017 Coimbra, Inntravel, Lisbon, Porto, Portugal 46 Comments

Livraria lello ticket, Porto

 

Porto

This little pink slip of paper is like the golden ticket for Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory. It gave me access to one of the world’s most beautiful bookshops, Livraria Lello in Porto. To walk into this exquisite little shop requires some effort, particularly in high season. Potential visitors have to queue in a separate building to purchase a ticket at the cost of 4 euros (redeemable against a book purchase). Another queue awaits outside the shop itself, before you can enter and take your first look at the famous crimson staircase.

On a Saturday morning at the end of January there were no queues at all, despite my concerns that we might be waiting for hours. But the little pink card, with its quotation, “So many books, so little time” still felt like a winning lottery ticket.

Livraria Lello exterior, Porto

The building, with its intricate Neo-Gothic façade, has been an inspirational bookshop in the city since 1906 when brothers José and Antonio Lello opened its doors. Their company motto can be seen in the centre of the striking stained glass ceiling: Decus in labore (dignity in work). The brothers were important members of Porto’s intellectual circles and their shop became a focus for culture and art within the city, where performances were held and authors revered.

It’s said that JK Rowling, during her years living in Porto, was a regular visitor and it’s hard not to believe that she wasn’t in some way influenced by the detail of the interior when she imagined the staircases in Hogwarts. I wonder if the Harry Potter film-makers also took a peek?

Livraria lello staircase front

 

Livraria Lello bookshop

 

Livraria Lello ceiling

Even with all the visitors taking photos it still has the ability to enchant although I do hope it can retain its charm in future years. This photo of mine below is what you might see when you search for images of the bookshop online. But I’ve tidied it up a little. The real staircase when we visited is actually in the second picture: the white patches are peeling paint. I’m sure they do repaint it regularly but it must be a concern: to preserve the beauty of such an important building in Portugal without completely restricting tourists. 4 euros probably isn’t too much to ask.

Livraria Lello stairs - touched up

 

 

Coimbra

If I thought Porto would provide me with enough literary stimulation to last until the end of the holiday, I hadn’t anticipated being blown away by even more books and their beautiful surroundings in Coimbra, the next stop on our three city Portuguese break. One of Europe’s oldest universities was established here. It chopped and changed its location between here and Lisbon from 1290 onwards, eventually making Coimbra its permanent home in 1537.

Coimbra university library

Perched on the top of a hill, on the corner of a vast courtyard, is the Joanine  Library (Biblioteca Joanina). King João V commissioned it in 1717 and it truly is a masterpiece of Baroque design. The front portal was erected as a triumphal arch but its grandeur can only hint at what’s in store once the doors are open. Photography is forbidden but thankfully some official photos are available online so this will give you some idea of how magnificent it is.

Coimbra Library (Wikimedia Commons)

Three rooms are linked by arches and the 60,000 books here, of the quarter of a million housed in the library in total, are reached by a balcony and recessed wooden ladders. The shelves are gilded against green or red walls, with Chinese designs. Look up and you will see fabulous trompe l’oiel effects giving a 3D appearance to the paintings. I was giddy with excitement: was this even more astonishing than Livraria Lello?

As an antithesis to the grandeur and opulence of the library itself, visitors can also walk down two floors to the academic prison. Installed under the library since 1771, though it was in existence in another location from 1593, it was used to house students who had committed disciplinary offences. The small, vaulted rooms had no direct light so must have been a pretty miserable place to be imprisoned. Thankfully it was abolished in 1832: current students must be very relieved about that.

My favourite story about the library? It is also home to a number of bats which have proved to have an unusual symbiotic relationship with the books they live alongside. The bats protect the books from insect damage (mainly moths) by eating them. Since this happens at night, any tables and the odd grand piano are covered up by large leather sheets to protect against post-prandial bat poop.

Lisbon

I couldn’t recall reading anything particularly bookish with reference to Lisbon until, on our walking trail, provided by our holiday company, Inntravel, there was mention of a record-breaking bookshop. It would have been quite easy to miss it altogether but on Rua Garrett, in the Chiado area of the city, is a shop, Bertrand, which has the proud boast of being the oldest bookshop…in the world.

Bertrand library LIsbon

There has been a bookshop operating here in Lisbon since 1732, with a change of location after the 1755 Lisbon earthquake. Guinness World Records have provided a certificate, which is proudly shown in their window, to acknowledge the longevity of the store. It’s an attractive shop; light, airy and quite contemporary inside. Nothing like the old, musty interior I had imagined. Bertrand now has over 50 branches throughout Portugal: good to know it’s still going strong after 285 years.

Bertrand Guinness certificate

 

Disclosure: We booked our own holiday with Inntravel but were offered a discount in exchange for a review of the trip. All opinions are my own.

Inntravel (inntravel.co.uk 01653 617000) offers On the Waterfront, a walking and rail discovery of Portugal’s three great cities, Lisbon, Coimbra & Porto from £580pp based on two sharing including 6 nights’ B&B in 4-star hotels, self-guided city walking tours, and rail journeys Lisbon to Coimbra & Coimbra to Porto. Available 2 January-24 December. Flights (cost extra) into Lisbon and out Porto. The holiday can be taken in the opposite direction, flying into Porto and out Lisbon.

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46 Comments

  1. Wandermust Mummy Reply
    21/02/2017 at 7:45 am

    Wow what a beautiful bookshop. I will have to remember this if I ever get to Porto! #citytripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      21/02/2017 at 12:48 pm

      If you do go in high season then you can pay a little bit more to book online and at least save on one queue.

  2. Lolo Reply
    21/02/2017 at 7:59 am

    Loooove these! The first one I have wanted to visit for quite some time, but I’ve added the second also to my list! I love visiting libraries! Here is my post in case you want to visit more! https://caliglobetrotter.wordpress.com/2016/04/11/europes-most-breathtaking-libraries/
    #CityTripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      21/02/2017 at 12:49 pm

      I’ve just had a look at your library list and wow, there are some beauties. I think I may have to join your love library club!

  3. Cathy (Mummytravels) Reply
    21/02/2017 at 4:15 pm

    I would love to see that library in Porto – it doesn’t matter how many photos I see, it always looks utterly magical. The bat story from Coimbra is fabulous too. Thanks for linking up with #citytripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      27/02/2017 at 1:55 pm

      I thought it might lose its appeal, being so busy, but there was still time to sit and contemplate the space.
      Who would have thought the bats would have such a good use!

  4. alex Reply
    21/02/2017 at 7:18 pm

    I never knew JK Rowling lived in Porto! I’ve always wanted to visit that bookshop but never had the time. An it’s so nice to see Coimbra featured – who knew the library looked like that inside!? My favourite read so far this week, made me all warm inside (I love a good bookshop!) #citytripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      27/02/2017 at 1:57 pm

      I’m thrilled you enjoyed the post – always good to give someone a warm feeling! Thanks Alex.

  5. Elizabeth (Wander Mum) Reply
    21/02/2017 at 9:52 pm

    Really enjoyed reading this Trish. I can’t believe I went to Porto without visiting Levriara Lello. It looks stunning, peeling paint and all. There’s no doubt JK Rowling was inspired by it. I love the bat story too. Some more reasons why I have to visit this area. #citytripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      27/02/2017 at 1:58 pm

      Oh no, you missed it! You’ll just have to go back. 😉

  6. Ruth Reply
    22/02/2017 at 3:03 am

    I love book! I used to have tons and tons of them but had to downsize a bit due to space issues. Anyway, I enjoy going to a library and looking at different books. I can be hours doing this. So sad here in the States it is something it is getting lost. In Europe, libraries are so big and gorgeous! #citytripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      22/02/2017 at 12:32 pm

      It’s sad when you have to let books go. We send ours to charity every so often but I’m always loathe to let them go. I think in Europe you could easily do a library tour and it would be amazing. I wonder if anyone’s thought of that as a package!

  7. Brooke of Passport Couture Reply
    22/02/2017 at 4:44 am

    I would be in heaven here! Although I’m not a huge Harry Potter fan, I do love the atmosphere that is reminiscent of the movie. I also enjoyed reading about the bats’ relationships to the books and how they protect them from insects. Very fascinating read! #citytripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      22/02/2017 at 12:30 pm

      I loved reading the books with my son when he was younger but the movies really made the most of JK Rowling’s stories. There is an area in the shop dedicated to Harry Potter books but it’s so much more than that so I’m sure you would love it. So glad you enjoyed the post.

  8. Clare (Suitcases and Sandcastles) Reply
    22/02/2017 at 3:18 pm

    Love this post, Trish. It’s great to read about the magnificent library in Coimbra and I’ve been desperate to visit the Lello bookshop and Porto itself for quite some time. I hope you managed to treat yourself to a good selection of books while you were there.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      27/02/2017 at 1:53 pm

      We didn’t buy any – shameful, I know. We were very tight for space and actually the books were quite pricey, about the only things that were expensive in Portugal. But we did enjoy a good mooch.

  9. Kat Reply
    23/02/2017 at 9:23 am

    My friend and I will be travelling to Portugal in the autumn, and we have been reading on travel posts on Porto lately. Both of us are book lovers and fans of Harry Porter, hence a visit to Livraria Lello is definitely a must 🙂 Cheers! #citytripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      27/02/2017 at 1:51 pm

      If you are book lovers and Harry Potter fans then you will adore Livraria Lello. You can buy tickets online if you want to save yourself one of the queues. Hope you have a great trip to Portugal.

  10. Tanja (the Red phone box travels) Reply
    23/02/2017 at 10:16 am

    I’ve heard about that bookshop in Porto:) but sadly didn’t come across the one in Lisbon #farawayfiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      27/02/2017 at 1:50 pm

      It’s easily missed – even with a guide, we nearly walked past it.

  11. Erin Gustafson Reply
    23/02/2017 at 12:33 pm

    I love a good bookshop, just got from perusing the wares at Shakespeare & Co. in Paris last week and while super special – it pales next to that option in Porto! Wow! So beautiful. Thank you for sharing these with #FarawayFiles, cheers from Denmark, Erin

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      27/02/2017 at 1:49 pm

      We love a good bookshop too. I haven’t been to Shakespeare & Co so will seek that out in a future visit to Paris.

  12. Chiera Reply
    23/02/2017 at 4:35 pm

    The Joanine Library blew me away! I would LOVE to go there! (A few years ago I was in Dublin and we went to Trinity College but in my slightly (very) hungover stupor I totally forgot about the library – which I have wanted to visit for YEARS) I don’t know what it is about books shops and libraries but I just love them! The story about the bats protecting the book is so cool haa #FarawayFiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      27/02/2017 at 1:47 pm

      I gather the Trinity College library is similar. Will definitely have to visit but will make sure I’m not hungover when I do!!

  13. Catherine's Cultural Wednesdays Reply
    23/02/2017 at 9:13 pm

    I want to go to that library! #CityTripping

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      27/02/2017 at 1:46 pm

      It was a breathtaking moment, when they opened the door and we stepped in. Quite unexpected.

  14. Natalie Reply
    24/02/2017 at 2:16 am

    I love the look of Livraria Lello in Porto, it totally reminds me of Harry Potter! Awesome post!
    #farawayfiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      27/02/2017 at 1:45 pm

      You can see why it appeals to Harry Potter fans – so beautiful.

  15. Katy Clarke Reply
    25/02/2017 at 8:31 am

    Livraria Lello looks like it is definitely worth queuing for Trish. How delightful. Love the story about the book protecting bats too. Sounds like the trip was such a literary inspiration. Do you have a book in mind? Thanks for sharing on #FarawayFiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      27/02/2017 at 1:44 pm

      No book in mind – I can’t think of one to write and I didn’t have room in my case for one to buy either. Hopeless 😉

  16. Danielle Reply
    25/02/2017 at 11:40 pm

    Wow! I also love reading and libraries and had never heard of this library in Porto! What a beautiful place. Reminds me of a much smaller version of the Trinity Library. Thanks for sharing! #farawayfiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      27/02/2017 at 1:42 pm

      Have just looked at some images of Trinity Library and you’re right – the library in Coimbra does looks similar. Gorgeous!

  17. Ahila Reply
    26/02/2017 at 12:11 pm

    Loved your feature of the bookstores and library in three cities. Particularly loved Livraria Lello in Porto, and its enchanting staircase and ceiling!

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      27/02/2017 at 1:40 pm

      It was a bit of a Narnia moment – you go through the door and it’s another world inside.

  18. Emma Reply
    27/02/2017 at 12:06 pm

    What fabulous book “houses”. It’s hard to believe that JK Rowling cannot have been influenced by that place, it’s just stunning! 🙂

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      27/02/2017 at 1:24 pm

      I only knew about the Porto bookshop before we went but the info from Inntravel was great for hunting out something a little bit different.

  19. Jonny (Daisy the bus) Reply
    28/02/2017 at 9:53 am

    What a great post. Books and culture in one of my favourite countries – what is there not to like? Surprisingly, despite many visits to Portugal and a love of literature, I have never visited ANY of your featured bookshops. Definitely something to look out for on my next visit. Thanks! #FarawayFiles
    p.s. it’s a long story, but the inspiration for “The adventures of Daisy the bus” also came from a bookshop in Portugal. Maybe I’ll explain someday in a future blog post ;o)

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      28/02/2017 at 4:25 pm

      Oh you must do a blog post about the inspiration for your blog – I’m intrigued to know more!

  20. Mags (The Family Freestylers) Reply
    16/03/2017 at 10:22 am

    Wow these book shops have blown me away – all so beautiful. It must feel like a real treasure trove to be in there with so many wonderful books! That staircase most definitely must have inspired JK Rowling – without a shadow of a doubt!

  21. Michelle Reply
    24/03/2017 at 10:31 am

    Just WOW! I have seen the Porto bookshop online before but never known anyone to actually get in! What interesting pieces of our literary world. And yes, how could this not be an influence for JK Rowling? All of these places are interesting in their own ways. Bookshops around the world are a thing unto themselves, and as a former bookshop employee I love to look at these places and imagine what it must be like for the employees to work within those walls. Fascinating post, Trish xx

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      26/03/2017 at 6:59 pm

      I know it’s incredibly busy in the summer so we were fortunate that a Saturday in January was reasonably quiet.
      I used to work in the book department at John Lewis and loved it – I think to work in a proper bookshop must be wonderful.

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