Is Rotterdam an ugly city? Our local guide alluded to this on a very damp and chilly Easter Sunday morning as we left Uniworld’s River Queen and headed into the city centre. He elaborated on this statement, explaining that when much of Rotterdam was destroyed during World War II, it was replaced by a huge amount of concrete. This created a modern, open city where development wasn’t hindered by history but it wasn’t very attractive. From the 1980s onwards architects were encouraged to create bold, iconic buildings and sculptures. Let Rotterdam be progressive and youthful rather than ugly.
The bridge and the washing line
Certainly, when we docked the previous evening, the first thing to catch my eye was the red colour of Willemsbrug (William’s Bridge) and a skyline of twinkling towers. This was such a contrast to the smaller, traditional towns we’d been visiting during our cruise.
In the daylight, despite the grey weather which matched the concrete, I was keen to explore. We had hardly walked a few steps before the first quirky piece of art came into view – 180 metres of metal with other bits of metal hanging off it. It’s official name is the Maas Sculpture but is known locally as ‘The Washing Line’.
The Cube Houses
One of Rotterdam’s famous sights: the Cube Houses. Designed by Piet Blom, these amazing homes are tilted and rest on hexagon-shaped pylons. People do live in these extraordinary houses although I imagine they get heartily sick of tourists like us peering at them. Our guide told us there is a very entrepreneurial resident who will happily let you tour his home, for a fee of course. I don’t think he was open on Easter Sunday – he must rest some of the time. There is a youth hostel in the midst of the development though – that would definitely get my vote for a hip place to stay in the city.
The Pencil
Peeping out over the top of the cube houses is another Piet Blom design, Blaaktoren (Black Tower) otherwise known as ‘The Pencil’. How funny that an otherwise normal apartment building can look so much more appealing with the addition of a purely aesthetic addition of a pointy roof.
The Market Hall
I love the shape of this covered market hall, made all the more interesting due to it being combined with residential apartments. It’s a striking building on the outside with its reflective glass but inside is the incredible artwork, ‘Horn of Plenty’, stretching across the whole of the ceiling. As it’s the biggest work of art in the Netherlands, it’s referred to as the Dutch version of the Sistine Chapel.
Erasmus Bridge
The Erasmusbrug is probably Rotterdam’s most notable landmark and was eventually completed in 1996 after a few years of engineering and design adjustments. It’s an unusual shape with its backward-leaning singular pylon leading to locals nicknaming it ‘The Swan’. I’m seeing a pattern here.
Things our guide told us
I love a quirky guide and ours in Rotterdam was a delight. But I’m always a little wary that they could be filling gullible tourists with all sorts of nonsense. Do I believe the story of the rain sensors on their road crossings, designed so walkers and cyclists are prioritised if it’s raining? I’ve since googled it – yes, it’s true. What about the story of people being wise to this and squirting water on the sensors so they can cross quicker? Hmm.
I did laugh when he told us there were plans to add more swimming areas to the city’s canal including a wave machine. Ha! Surely not! But it is correct – this summer saw the opening of Urban Surf Rotterdam: the first place in the world where you can surf in the heart of the city. That just sums up the joy of Rotterdam – a city that’s open to new design and innovation with a wonderful sense of fun to boot.
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