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Home  >  Blog  >  Castles, cows and cascades

Castles, cows and cascades

Trish Burgess Posted on08/10/201406/08/2016 Northumberland 38 Comments

Our visit to the Northumberland coast seems a long time ago, probably because it was. I’ve only touched on what we did during our short break, sharing our fabulous apartment by the sea and a perfect day exploring Seahouses. Fancy hearing a bit more?

“Shall we go to Chillingham Castle today?” Dougie suggested.
“What’s it got?” I replied, conscious we had two teens to entertain and the weather wasn’t looking brilliant.
“The only wild cattle in the world,” he announced, knowing this might interest me, as much for potential blogging material as anything.
“Tell me more,” I replied.
“Chillingham Castle, a 12th century stronghold, was the basecamp for the 1298 attack on William Wallace by King Edward I.”
“Ooh, Braveheart!” I was interested now. “Go on!”
“Park designed by Capability Brown in 1752.”
“Like that. But what about the cows?”
“Sole survivors of herds of cattle that once roamed the forests of England. Far rarer than the Giant Panda. Completely untamed. Never been touched by human hand. Potentially dangerous. Can only be visited with a warden.”

Despite this last nugget of information, it got the thumbs up and we all clambered into the car. As the castle didn’t open until midday, we decided to see the cattle first. The car park was situated up a fairly steep, narrow path. There were only two other cars there and, looking at the map at the gate, the meeting point for the warden was some distance across a field.

It wasn’t looking good. We weren’t in the right garb for a start. My shoes were fairly sturdy but suede and Rory’s girlfriend, Juliana, was wearing the flimsiest sandals known to man – just a couple of thin strips of turquoise leather. I was hungry and needed the loo.

Dougie strode on across the field and the rest of us followed in his wake, shooing away the flies and dodging the sheep droppings. We reached the hemmel (a hut where we would meet the warden for the tour). There were no toilets.  I had envisaged being transported on a covered trailer but it looked like this was a walking tour. Another couple were waiting and looked better prepared: walking boots and cagoules.

We had two minutes to decide whether to stick it out and wait for the warden or do a runner back through the field. We chose the latter, aware that we were probably missing a unique opportunity to see the magnificent wild beasts but that there was likely to be a mutiny if we stayed.

It was only 11am so we were still far too early for the castle opening. A change of plan was necessary. Luckily Alnwick was near so we had a show of hands as to whether to see its castle (the setting for Hogwarts in the Harry Potter movies) or the garden. As we’d taken Rory to Alnwick Castle on a Harry Potter day many years before, we opted for Alnwick Garden, despite the rain beginning to spit.

The Alnwick Garden is a contemporary garden, designed by the Duchess of Northumberland, and can be visited if wearing sandals. With a large, colourful map of the garden in our hand we tried to plan the next few hours so we could  see all of the different parts of the garden and make sure we caught the half-hourly displays from the Grand Cascade. But first, food.

We headed towards the Treehouse, a gorgeous part of the garden – all wobbly rope-bridges and wooden structures. I’ve heard The Treehouse Restaurant is excellent for proper meals but we just wanted something quick so The Potting Shed was perfect for us: cosy, informal and serving the most delicious sausage sandwiches.

The rain stopped just after we’d finished eating (there is a god) so a very pleasant time was spent mooching around the rest of the fascinating garden. We loved the mirrored stainless-steel water sculptures in the Serpent Garden but, all agreed, our favourite bit was a visit to the Poisoned Garden where guide, Bridget, took small groups of us into a locked part of the grounds where many highly poisonous plants were growing. Children in the group were mesmerised by her talk, open-mouthed at how long it would take to die, and how gruesome a death it would be, if you ingested various berries and leaves.

I think we were safe, gobbling up a few Krispy Kreme doughnuts from The Pavilion, another excellent eatery in the garden. We sat on the terrace, oohing and aahing as the fountains on the Grand Cascade came to life, and watched little children ride around at its base on John Deere mini-tractors.

Funny how a day can start one way, plans change and yet it can all work out for the best. I still want to see the potentially dangerous cattle and I know Dougie wants to return to Chillingham Castle, if only to paint his face blue, don his kilt and stand on the ramparts shouting, “FREEDOM!”

grand cascade alnwick garden
Wish I’d been small enough to have a go on the tractors.
Grand Cascade, The Alnwick Garden
alnwick garden
What can you see through the arched window?
(Memories of Play School anyone?)
The wobbly rope bridge from The Treehouse
A warm welcome in The Potting Shed

Previous Article Sampling Scarborough’s Fare at the Ox Pasture Hall Hotel
Next Article Book Review: Love in Small Letters by Francesc Miralles

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38 Comments

  1. Expat mum Reply
    08/10/2014 at 1:25 pm

    Love that place!

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      08/10/2014 at 6:44 pm

      I was so surprised at how much it had to offer – not just your usual pretty gardens,

  2. Mac n' Janet Reply
    08/10/2014 at 2:57 pm

    Looks like a great place to visit. I consider all cows to be wild, mean spirited and untrustworthy. We've had far to many unpleasant encounters of the bovine kind.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      08/10/2014 at 6:47 pm

      I won't buy you a ticket to see this herd then, Janet? ;-))

  3. libby Reply
    08/10/2014 at 4:49 pm

    We loved Alnwick and can't wait to return some weekend.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      08/10/2014 at 6:48 pm

      I think we need to go back too – so many little towns and villages round there I haven't visited.

  4. K Ville Reply
    08/10/2014 at 6:38 pm

    I've never been north. really should make the effort.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      08/10/2014 at 6:48 pm

      Get yourself up there, woman!

  5. Sarah Reply
    09/10/2014 at 7:51 am

    What a lovely day. I'd like to see the cows too, but you're right it wasn't the moment when you were there. As it was, it all turned out for the best. 🙂

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      11/10/2014 at 11:01 am

      We definitely want to return to the area so will put our wellies in the car when we do!

  6. Michelloui Reply
    09/10/2014 at 5:10 pm

    Fantastic photos of the gardens! I loved reading the progress of the day and your account of the decision making. Sounds like it all turned out well in spite of the shoes and lack of warden 😉

    You really MUST go back to Chillingham one day though. I would be very interested to read what you think of the place. 'Eccentric' is an understatement. The cows are worth a return too. That whole band of countryside from the Cheviots to the sea is some of my favourite in the world.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      11/10/2014 at 11:04 am

      I know what you mean about 'eccentric' – it sounds completely bonkers. I reckon there will be excellent blog material when we do eventually go.
      So pleased to have brought back memories for you 🙂

  7. Nikki Thomas Reply
    10/10/2014 at 9:46 am

    That sounds amazing and why not do the whole Braveheart thing, I'm sure it would be very therapeutic. It does sound like a wonderful place to spend time and there seems like so many different things to do which is lovely. The Poisoned Garden sounds fascinating too, my kids would so love that.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      11/10/2014 at 11:05 am

      It was unlike most gardens we have been to in the past – lots of variation and, in particular, excellent food outlets. Your kids would love it.

  8. Manneskjur Reply
    10/10/2014 at 11:42 am

    Oh this looks totally like my cup of tea! I've read a few blog posts about there now and everyone looks so inviting. Kitty would LOVE the poisoned garden talk ! She is all about the facts at the moment 🙂

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      11/10/2014 at 11:09 am

      The children visiting the poisoned garden were so well-behaved: probably terrified to move in case they brushed against something. It wasn't too long either, just the right amount of information.

  9. Sarah Ebner Reply
    10/10/2014 at 12:25 pm

    Yes please! Know I would like this and the kids would too. It sounds brilliant. We went to Newcastle a few years back, but we really need a proper Northumberland holiday I think…

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      11/10/2014 at 11:11 am

      We have spent so many years just visiting the folks in Newcastle – far too little time getting to know the coastline.

  10. Liz Burton Reply
    10/10/2014 at 4:11 pm

    Alnwick Gardens are amazing, I'd love to go again sometime.

    In fact the whole area is beautiful.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      11/10/2014 at 11:12 am

      It is isn't it. We had a fabulous few days there.

  11. Jennifer Jain Reply
    10/10/2014 at 4:24 pm

    Looks wonderful! I love the little tractors! I know that my son would love the Poisoned Garden too, it looks like a great place to visit with the family.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      11/10/2014 at 11:14 am

      You can get joint tickets to include the castle which, because of the Harry Potter association, is another family-friendly attraction.

  12. Boo Roo and Tigger Too Reply
    10/10/2014 at 5:09 pm

    This looks an amazing place to visit

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      11/10/2014 at 11:18 am

      If you're in the area, it's great for all ages.

  13. otilia stocks Reply
    10/10/2014 at 7:49 pm

    Looks like such an amazing and welcoming place!

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      11/10/2014 at 11:19 am

      Yes, for formal gardens, it was very relaxed and so good for kids.

  14. Steve Reply
    11/10/2014 at 6:15 am

    I went to Northumberland years ago – loved it and did loads of stuff – but I can now see that I overlooked even more. Some very good reasons to go back…

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      11/10/2014 at 11:20 am

      Isn't that always the way when you go somewhere, you only touch the surface.

  15. Jayne Reply
    11/10/2014 at 9:45 am

    Wow, what a gorgeous place…although, you had me at 'Krispy Kreme'!

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      11/10/2014 at 11:21 am

      Who would have thought they would have a Krispy Kreme concession!

  16. gidders1 Reply
    11/10/2014 at 11:38 am

    Love the idea of the treehouse resuturant, you must go there next time. Sounds an amazing place all round though. Amanda (The Ana Mum Diary)

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      11/10/2014 at 11:40 am

      The Potting Shed was up in the trees too, accessed via the bridge, so we didn't miss out too much on the experience. The menu foes look lovely though, if we had wanted to linger longer.

  17. Michelle Twin Mum Reply
    11/10/2014 at 4:40 pm

    Ohh I love it and want to go there but it is a very long way! I'm lucky enough to live in a Capability Brown designed estate and his vision was amazing. Mich x

  18. Older Single Mum Reply
    13/10/2014 at 10:02 am

    Now that's what I call going with the flow! I can imagine how the kids would have loved that talk of death and dying by berries – what a brilliant way to educate them :)) Lovely pics xx

  19. BavarianSojourn Reply
    16/10/2014 at 7:59 pm

    Your pictures are amazing, and I am slightly in love with the Potting Shed!! 🙂 Some things are just meant to be! 🙂 xx

  20. Older Mum Reply
    19/10/2014 at 9:33 am

    Now that sounds like a fab place to visit – love the sound of The Tree House and The Potting shed. I love the North of England (I'm from Leeds originally). X

  21. Funky Wellies Reply
    31/10/2014 at 1:09 pm

    I cannot wait to read more about the potentially dangerous cattle and very much hope to see a video of Dougie screaming "FREEDOM"!! 😉 xx

  22. Pingback: A grand day out at Burghley House - Mum's Gone To ...

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