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Home  >  Blog  >  Mum’s gone to Lyme Regis, Dorset

Mum’s gone to Lyme Regis, Dorset

Trish Burgess Posted on14/09/201525/01/2019 Devon, Dorset, Lyme Regis 21 Comments
Lyme Regis coastline in Devon
 

 

After a drizzly but delightful day in Dartmouth, (overkill on the alliteration there, sorry) our second day in the south west proved even more dismal, weather-wise. Undeterred, we scooped the teenage students from their slumber and drove them a few miles south of Exeter to Topsham.

We had visited Topsham before when the kiddies had booked us a table at a local restaurant, The Galley. They had been desperate to try out it out, because of its rave reviews, but had waited patiently until we could go with them…and pay. It turned out to be what food critics describe as ‘historic’.

A daytime visit to the little town proved just as memorable, despite the rain. We darted in and out of a series of fabulous little independent shops, seeking out treasures, working our way down the high street until we reached Route 2, which describes itself as an eco-cafe and apparently, as I discovered later, is one of the top 10 cycling cafes in the UK (according to The Guardian) It’s what you might call a relaxed (scruffy?) establishment which served fantastic food. The teens wolfed down gumbo and a Cajun chicken burger whilst Dougie and I, still full from breakfast, decided on the ridiculous but rather sublime idea of lunchtime scones – with cream and jam.

We spent the afternoon at Dart’s Farm, which sells everything from champagne flutes to cheese and cider. Dougie and I bought the flutes and Rory and Juliana filled a trolley of goodies for the kitchen cupboards of their new flat.

The following day’s forecast was very encouraging. The sun was going to make an appearance but we would stand a better chance of catching it if we travelled west. So, waking up to blue skies, we headed for Lyme Regis. Having had success with Dartmouth’s efficient Park & Ride system, we decided to do the same in Lyme. A large field and a very British queue awaited us. The bus appeared and was barely bigger than a mini-bus so the queue remained.

Not the most patient people, we gave up pretty swiftly and drove further into town. The car parks were heaving, nothing was moving, the swearing from within the car was increasing and it seemed our visit might be doomed. However, on coming out of the other side of the town we chanced upon a vast car park, Charmouth Road. £2 all day. It had spaces and was linked to a brand new walkway which led down to the beach and round to Lyme itself. It was perfect.

Reaching the beaches at Lyme Regis we were able to see where everyone from the cars had gone. The pebble beach wasn’t too bad but the tiny patch of sandy beach was packed. Dads were hammering in windbreaks, mums were in charge of cool boxes and kids were carrying buckets, spades and assorted inflated animals. To top it all, this was the weekend of the Lyme Folk Festival so there were several groups of Morris dancers on the prom, with drums thumping and bells ringing. The following photo will give you an idea. Looks like a ‘Where’s Wally’ picture, doesn’t it?

Lyme Regis beach
Where’s Wally on Lyme Regis beach…can you spot the sandcastle shaped like a volcano?

 

A few yards further on was Lyme Regis’ majestic Cobb, made famous by John Fowles book, The French Lieutenant’s Woman. The crowds had dissipated so I felt a little like Meryl Streep, walking along the top – though, as it was rather hot, it didn’t quite have that wild, desolate feel about it.

What the French Lieutenant’s Woman would have worn
if the sun had been shining. 

Like Louisa Musgrove in Jane Austen’s Persuasion, I climbed down from the Cobb via some precarious steps, named Granny’s Teeth. Unlike Louisa, I didn’t fall off and suffer concussion.

Wandering past the crowds again, we looked for somewhere to stop for a drink and a bite to eat. Remembering how in Dartmouth we had success with the local arts centre, we sought refuge in the Mermaid Theatre. The theatre bar was empty and we thought it might be closed but we were made very welcome, encouraged to sit on the balcony outside and contribute whatever we felt was right for the chocolate brownies which had been made by local supporters of the theatre. We couldn’t believe our luck with the view over the bay, the tranquillity and the delicious cakes.

The cosy but empty bar at the lovely Mermaid Theatre

To end the afternoon, we returned to Church Cliffs to search for fossils. Next time we should really think ahead and book a session with a professional guide. Nevertheless, it was good to just poke about on the shore and I did find part of an ammonite.

An hour later the clouds darkened and we could hear dull, booming thuds across the bay. Had T- Rex wakened from his slumber because of our meddling in the rocks at the Jurassic cliffs or was it the drums from the Morris troupe calling the team together for one last jig? Neither. It was thunder and we had a very quick sprint back up the steps to our car before the torrential rain came down just as we shut the doors. Thankfully we weren’t waiting at the other side of town for a tiny bus to take us back to a field.

Sometimes things just work out perfectly, especially when the day ends having a great tapas meal in Exeter with my two favourite boys:

More photos from the day:

fishing nets
Arty photo No.1

 

surf boards
Arty photo No.2

The Cobb, Lyme Regis
An empty Cobb, just a stone’s throw away from the
location of the busy beach.

 
The end of the Cobb, Lyme Regis
The very end of the Cobb

 

Packing my Suitcase

 

Previous Article Mum’s gone to Dartmouth, Devon
Next Article Review of Mondrian Hotel, London

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21 Comments

  1. Mac n' Janet Reply
    14/09/2015 at 11:19 pm

    Such a pretty part of the country it's been years since we've been there.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      17/09/2015 at 1:16 pm

      I feel as if we've only touched the surface – more visits planned.

  2. libby Reply
    15/09/2015 at 6:06 am

    I still haven't made it to LR yet….it's on my list and looks lovely…and I had to smile when you mentioned stocking up the shopping trolley for the students…been there done that etc., and still 'helping out' now and again..and aren't we lucky to be able to? Great pic of your boys….and of you on the Cobb.x

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      17/09/2015 at 1:17 pm

      Yes, we love giving them a helping hand. Dougie even bought them a fire blanket and fire extinguisher for their new home: we worry just as much as we've always done!

  3. Sarah Reply
    15/09/2015 at 8:26 am

    One of the joys of being an adult is eating scones and jam at lunch time if one so desires. And you were in the right place to enjoy them to the max. 🙂

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      17/09/2015 at 1:19 pm

      It's funny but I spotted them behind the counter – they must have moved them after morning coffee time – but we didn't care if we were a bit odd; they were delicious.

  4. Bryce Reply
    19/09/2015 at 10:00 pm

    "Alliteration", "oxymoron", not only geographical, but a subtle English lesson, if only you had been there for my O levels.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      21/09/2015 at 12:21 pm

      I'll have to get some onomatopoeia into the next one, just for you Bryce 🙂

    • Bryce Reply
      25/09/2015 at 7:44 pm

      As one famous person once said, on being praised for unknowingly using onematopoeia… "on a what a pier?"
      Its something to be a working class hero.

  5. BavarianSojourn Reply
    20/09/2015 at 8:50 am

    Gorgeous photos Mrs. Apart from the parking, it all sounds lovely! I do miss English seasides! 🙂

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      21/09/2015 at 12:23 pm

      It made such a difference the sun coming out for the day. And so special sharing it with Rory was quite happy just mooching about with us.
      Glad you like the photos – I was quite chuffed with some of them.

  6. Wander Mum Reply
    21/09/2015 at 12:16 pm

    Beautiful pics. I went to Lyme Regis as a child and remember the stone beach. I can't believe how many people are at the sandy one – and morris dancers – wow! Wonderfully captured. x

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      21/09/2015 at 12:24 pm

      There was a walkway above the main prom which was the perfect spot to photograph the beach scene – quite bizarre really!

  7. MummyTravels Reply
    21/09/2015 at 1:51 pm

    Lyme is somewhere I still haven't been – although perhaps I might wait for a wilder day to get a quieter beach! That beach shot is incredible… The fossils sound really interesting though, and I love all the colours in your photos. #mondayescapes

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      23/09/2015 at 9:33 am

      If you pick a wilder day you can wear a cape with the hood up and be a real French Lieutenant's woman!

  8. Stephanie Robinson Reply
    21/09/2015 at 9:54 pm

    I love Lyme Regis but it does get busy. We used to visit as children and have since been back and it was just the same 🙂 #mondayescapes

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      23/09/2015 at 9:34 am

      I found it amazing that all the crowds were in one small area. Just a few years east or west and it's so much less frenetic.

  9. Shobha Reply
    27/09/2015 at 5:49 pm

    I love Lyme Regis! We've been several times and not only is the sand part great for kids, it's got great food and cool boutiques/art galleries.

  10. Packing my Suitcase Reply
    28/09/2015 at 10:08 am

    What an awesome place. I love the art works, they look so cool!!

    Thank you for joining #MondayEscapes

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