Holidaying as we were at the geographical heart of Scotland, a ‘must-see’ of the trip was only a five minute drive away. Is this tree the oldest living thing in Europe? The Fortingall Yew is estimated to be between 2000 and 5000 years old. Its trunk was once measured as 16 metres in circumference. The tree is now a shadow of its former self because of natural decay but also because parts of it were chopped off over the centuries to make drinking cups ‘and other curiosities’ and ‘local boys of the village’ in 1806 damaged it by lighting a fire underneath it. Legend also has it that Pontius Pilate was born here and played happily under its branches as a child. Sound far-fetched but this is the sort of legend I love to read about when I visit a place.
The steps leading to the tree have been etched to give visitors a flavour of the history of this ancient yew, each slab suggesting who has been there before (kings and queens and scholars) ending with the words, ‘picts, warriors and you!’
The tree has been protected by a wall since 1785 to stop any more souvenir-hunting but it’s still easy to view and there is something quite special about seeing such a primordial species of tree at close quarters. I understand cuttings have been taken by the Forestry Commission to be grown at Roslin (Rosslyn) near where Dolly The Sheep was cloned. Roslin is itself a sacred site in Scotland, its chapel made even more famous by its inclusion in the denouement of The Da Vinci Code.  The cuttings will be planted at woods throughout the country, including the arboretum at Scone Palace so the grand old yew will continue to flourish for many more years to come.
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| Fortingall Yew – you can just make out small markers on the left showing the original circumference |
To continue our fascination with all things ancient, that evening we had dinner at the Kenmore Hotel which is apparently the oldest inn in Scotland, established in 1572. We couldn’t get a table at its new Grill restaurant but were able to choose from the same menu in the cosy, traditional Poet’s Bar where, in 1787, the Bard, Robert Burns, so taken with the views of Loch Tay, composed a poem and wrote it on the chimney breast of the fireplace. It’s still there, the pencil marks probably re-written a few times over the years and it’s now encased in glass. Prince William visited in 2005 but I didn’t see any graffiti from him on the walls.
We had a delicious meal – steak and chips for the boys and a selection of tapas for me which would probably not have been on Rabbie’s plate when he visited. In honour of the man who was there before us, however, we uttered the lines from his famous grace which is often quoted at Burn’s Suppers across the world:
Saw your cousin today – most odd!
Glad you enjoyed the Fortingall Yew. It's a riveting sight isn't it?!
Ha! Is my cousin odd or was it just meeting her? ;-). I was thinking of you both, knowing it was the toddler group today.
I loved the tree, it felt very special just to be there.
I love all that history! I also enjoy those stories, even if they aren't true, I find them interesting to imagine that they are.
I find I read the stories first and then want to seek out the location. This was the case with the tree, I read about it in some leaflets left in ur apartment and I had to go for a look.
Really enjoyed reading about that tree! Love the Pontius Pilate legend. xx
I haven't looked very closely at the facts behind it, but the story seems to be that Pilate's father was a Roman legionary based in Scotland. Researchers think the dates don't match but I might just ignore that!
I love being somewhere where I know history has trod. I became quite overwhelmed once at Hampton court palace in the corridor where Kathryn Howard ran crying for her life. I think I would feel the same at this yew. I sometimes stand looking at the yews in our church yard. They've seen it all. Great happiness, utter misery and everything inbetween. Imagine 5000 years of it, all those people that have been there. Quite incredible. Why didn't RB use a napkin or coaster?! Bet that's what William did, he's clevererer!
You've expressed my emotions far better than I did. May just cut and paste your comment and slip it in 😉
Ps – took me a while to realise you meant Robert Burns for RB. I thought you meant my son, Rory! Was wondering what he had to do with using napkins and coasters. Lol. You would think I would remember what I've just written about….
If only trees could talk…
They would have told off the naughty boys for lighting fires, that's for sure.
I don't care if the stories are true or not, they add something special to wherever you happen to be and when visiting somewhere with 'no human interest angle' our imaginations tend to make one up anyway – imagining the people and events that have occured there – don't you think?
I love quirky stories which accompany tourist attractions and yes, it's good to let your imagination go and create a history too.
What a fascinating place… I wonder how many people have hugged that tree in the past 5000 years!
It's hard to comprehend something being that old and still alive. Shame there hadn't been more hugging and less chopping!
I would fly to Scotland solely for the chance to see that tree (although the inn sounds pretty fantastic, too.) In America, we reckon something to be old if it's 150-200 years old. Something like this boggles the mind. I wonder if anyone has ever written a book about it?
Both the tree and the inn were certainly worth seeing, and only five minutes away from one another.
I have googled a few websites about the Fortingall Yew but haven't found a book. Now there's an idea…
I have a weakness for old trees, I have no idea why but I love them and the idea of them. Didn't Oliver Rackham have a book on old trees of Britain? Seems familiar…
I love the stories on the steps leading up to it as well–and I think you and MsCaroline are onto something there with a book idea!
There is something all-knowing about old trees, you're right. Puts things in perspective.
I googled Oliver Rackham and yes, he did write a book on trees. It might well be in there.
Not to be morbid but graveyards are my most beloved of sightseeing activities. My husband and my first "date' was in Highgate cemetery, love it ….very Kathy its me im home by kate Bush
Another Kate Bush fan – wasn't Toni (Expat Mum) discussing her on her blog?
A date in a cemetery sounds…erm…interesting!
I had no idea that Pontius Pilate came from Scotland. Fascinating history surrounding the Yew tree too!
I don't think his parents did either! There seems to be a few claims from around the world. I read somewhere it was more likely he was born in Central Italy…. Shame.
I love this post – as a history buff, it really makes me want to go too!
I think that's why I love to write travel posts – there is so much to talk about: history, geography, culture, food plus all the usual family stories which hopefully entertain. A five-minute stop to look at a tree can become an important part of the whole trip.