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| The Family Burgess on Vatnajokull glacier |
I read this morning that another volcano, Grimsvotn, has erupted in Iceland, this time under the Vatnajokull glacier in the south east of the country. I’ve been there, walked on the ice of that very glacier in the summer of 2007. I thought I’d share my memories of the day: –
The last of our pre-planned activities – a 3 hour glacier hike – which is classed as “easy” on the website. Always slightly dubious when they tell you this but I’m getting used to the knot in my stomach before these sessions and I’ve survived the snow-mobiling and the whale-watching so far. Arrive early at Skaftafell camp site and meet our guide who measures us up for crampons. Initially thought they were bits of crunchy bread you sprinkle on soup but discover they are special metal spikes which fasten round your boots, designed for walking on ice. They reminded me of the metal roller-skates I used to have when I was little: the type you had to adjust to fit round your shoes and your mother always complained when you wore them with good shoes and scuffed the leather. We were also equipped with pickaxes. At this point I’m rather wary as the idea of needing such equipment seems to suggest we’re not going for a gentle walkabout. I’m slightly reassured by the sight of another family with two children younger than mine and as we are bundled into the minibus to be driven to the edge of the glacier, I’m resigned to the fact that I’ve got to just go for it. With this more positive attitude I’m soon clambering out of the bus and keen to get going.
As we approach the ice, the wisdom of wearing crampons becomes clear….. ice is slippery! We are taught how to walk with the crampons on our feet and there is a definite knack to it. Each step has to be deliberate, lifting up from the knees like a puppet on strings. Going up a steep incline requires a waddling gait, a bit like Charlie Chaplin; downhill necessitates small deliberate steps, using the pickaxe behind you to stop you falling forward. It’s rather weird walking on the ice which is black with ash in places, and a beautiful blue in others. I can hear water running underneath my feet and the guide is at pains to ensure we don’t divert from his trail or we will fall down a crevasse. After a while I find this whole experience quite exhilarating and, for once in my life, I don’t seem to be the hopeless idiot at the back with no aptitude for the task in hand. Striding out like Ranulph Fiennes, amazed to be on the third largest icecap in the world, I absolutely love it. It’s hard work but the views are stunning and I’m so pleased I didn’t bottle out.
Looks amazing. Iceland is a place I've wanted to visit for some years. One day I shall have enough money to do it…!
Just as well the earth didn't move under your feet – doesn't bear thinking about does it. How amazing to have walked on a glacier over a volcano – now that is something special indeed.
Does going to Disneyland compare?!!(joke, honest!). I remember those old fashioned roller skates which scuffed my good shoes, and were so slow unless your big brother loosened the screws and oiled them then….wow did they go!
Bet that was such a great experience once you 'just went for it'….I'm sure I would have been staying in the minibus!
ps Ran Fiennes was always my secret crush years ago…what a man…tall handsome explorer..posh with a bit of dough….you always knew where he was (sort of) and could be relied upon to look after anyone in his lifeboat…sigh……..
What an awesome experience. thanks for writing about it! Husband used to be an avid ice climber, but have never done it myself. I think a glacier might be ok though-you've made it sound gorgeous! Crampons…croutons….ha!
@Steve – Try and go soon while their economy works in our favour. It was so expensive in 2007!
@Diney – It was weird walking on the glacier because you could hear it constantly creaking as it is a moving beast!
My big brother never oiled mine!
@Libby – I nearly stayed in the minibus for the white water rafting: now that was terrifying!
I'll leave you to your fantasy, Libby 😉
@MsCaroline – It was much more fun that I thought and I am a bit of a wuss. Where has your husband done his ice climbing?
OK, OK I have finally caved in to write and ask — where did you get that great anorak (are they still called anoraks?? I am old, old and 50+ years ago they were called anoraks.) Just curious, not that I will be able to copy you and buy one since haven't lived in the UK for 30 plus years and they definitely don't have an M&S, British Home Stores, C&A or anything even mildly equivalent here in Panama — doubt there's an anorak to be found in the whole country.
Just think the jacket is great!!
Marion in the Mountains of Panama (25 miles from the Costa Rican Border)
PS Love your Blog it's the best of 'em all.
Hello Marion, thanks so much for the comment. I'm delighted you caved in and wrote to me.
The jacket (actually I'd call it an anorak too!) is a make called 'Roxy'. I bought it in a ski shop some years ago: I loved the spots. I've checked Roxy website and they even have a store in Panama – so maybe you can get something similar. If you look in the 'snow' section there are some funky anoraks just for you.
I had that gut wrenching OMG moment as they gave us the 'you will die in this many hours' speech as we got off the bus at the Olgas in the Northern Territory. I had my daughter in a buggy, loaned to us by the Ayres Rock hotel manager's next door neighbour. We had done no pre-trip research at all!! As it turned out we all survived but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone with a toddler. Iceland just doesn't do it for me, in fact I have just written a post for tomorrow saying as much! But I am very happy it does it for you 🙂
@Kelloggsville – We had that sicky nervous feeling on many occasions on that holiday and thankfully survived. It makes for good stories afterwards but at the time you say, this is meant to be a holiday!!
Will have to read your post…even though it pains me to do so ;-))
What a great experience Trish. I'm in awe of your many physical talents. I find walking to the postbox challenging enough!
Trish- he did most of his climbing in and around upstate New York/New Hampshire and other parts of New England. He's also done some out west (Utah?) but I was never too crazy about it, and besides, we moved to the midwest and then Phoenix, so he did less ice and more rock after that, which was just dandy with me. He still has all of his old ice climbing stuff (over 20 years old) hanging hopefully in what he calls the 'gear closet'…
@Wylye Girl – No need to be in awe, I'm usually a lazy bum.
@Ms Caroline – I hope the stuff in his gear closet gets an airing sometime (though maybe you're hoping it stays there!)
@Nina – Yes, it's a fabulous place – so many amazing features in such a small country. And much cheaper now than when we went.
Really scary that volcano blew up, seems like there is all this rumbling and tumbling going on downunder if you get my drift. What an incredible experience, My husband is agitating to go to Iceland and this is really inspiring. Mind you it's been such a cold winter, Hawaii (though dull in comparison) does beckons its little lei hand…
I love glaziers, they are so beautiful all that blue ice and deep frightening crevasses. I would love to make it to Iceland one day…here's hoping.
@About last weekend – Hmmm, Hawaii or Iceland? I can certainly appreciate the lure of the lei. I prefer warmth too!
@Heather – I was quite surprised at the colours in a glacier and, of course, the movement. It's nothing like a snow-covered mountain which is how I'd imagined it might be.