It was a hot, cloudless day at the end of June. Dougie and I had already spent the morning kayaking 15km on the River Eure, a tributary of the Seine. We changed out of our wet clothes and managed a quick bite to eat back on the cruise ship, which was moored in Vernon. The understanding U by Uniworld catering team had kept back a meal for us and our fellow kayaker, Sally, as we had missed the original lunch slot. Time was of the essence as there was a group bike ride to Giverny that afternoon, to see Monet’s garden. It would only take about half an hour but in the heat, and after a morning spent in the water, this was turning into quite a workout. And you thought river cruises were genteel holidays for old folk? Think again.
The U By Uniworld river cruises cater for the younger market but they let old codgers like us come along if we can last the pace. “Of course we can,” we scoffed, noting with a smile that none of the pretty young things had joined us in the kayaks that morning. There are, of course, more traditional excursions on this cruise, The Seine Experience (renamed Northern France at a Glance for 2019). We had spent a glorious afternoon in Versailles earlier that week and were given plenty of sightseeing time in picturesque Rouen Honfleur and, of course, Paris.
Is summer the best time to visit Monet’s garden?
The afternoon wandering around the Fondation Claude Monet was a highlight of our trip but on a warm summer’s day, it was rather busy. However, early summer could be the best time to see many of the flowers in bloom, so if you can accept the crowds, you will be rewarded with colourful floral displays. But we were too late for the wisteria on the bridges. I suspect every season will showcase different aspects of Monet’s garden so you won’t be disappointed at any time of year.
We had a guide to show us around but this felt even more crowded so we slipped away and were soon able to find quieter parts of the garden, to appreciate the beautiful reflections that inspired Monet to create some of his best known impressionist paintings.
A little background information might help at this point. Monet and his family settled in Giverny, Normandy, in 1883 and he lived there for 43 years. There are two parts to the gardens. The Clos Normand is a flower garden closest to the house and the Japanese-inspired water garden can be reached via an underground passageway. Monet not only designed the grounds; he also was instrumental in the decoration of the house.
The Clos Normand
Monet was keen to design a simple flower garden, with flowerbeds at different heights to create volume. He chose fruit and ornamental trees, climbing roses and and abundance of annuals for a blast of summer colour. He chose common flowers such as daisies, tulips, daffodils and and poppies as well as rare varieties.
Along the central path there are metal arches for climbing roses. There’s a neatness and regularity about the beds in this part of the garden but the flowers themselves do seem to have been given space to freely bloom. Some beds feature specific colours, like an artists’ palette.
The Water Garden
In 1893 Monet purchased land next to his property on the other side of a railway line. Despite neighbours’ objections, he soon dug his first pond. Once filled with water he was keen to embellish the pond with flowers. “I just took a catalogue and chose at random, that’s all. ”
He chose well as the water lilies (nymphéas) and the reflections of the plants in the water became the focus for many of his paintings that can be seen in galleries all over the world. He loved the curves and asymmetry of this garden, inspired by prints of Japanese gardens that he collected. Bamboos, maples and weeping willows were planted by this keen gardener.
I didn’t get a decent photo of the famous Japanese bridge but here’s my husband standing on it, looking surprisingly at home in this French jardin with his jaunty beret and linen shirt. Put a paintbrush in his hand and let’s see if he can rustle up a masterpiece.
Claude Monet’s house
Originally known as the House of the Cider Press, Monet’s home was extended widthways, after it was purchased, probably because the couple had eight children and needed more space. It was repaired in the 1970s and has been open to the public since 1980. It really is a joyous building, Monet choosing the colours himself, often at odds with what was fashionable at the time.
The vivid yellow dining room, decorated with Japanese prints, is a wonderful bright room. It looks so fresh and comfortable, you could easily forget that the furniture and ornaments are treasured originals. When we were walking through the room, one lady decided to take a seat at the table. She was soon back on her feet after a shrieked “Madame! Non!” from the horrified security guard.
The blue kitchen, decorated with tiles from Rouen, was designed to work in harmony with the dining room. It has the most gorgeous collection of copper pans. I’ve not seen such well-scrubbed copper since we visited Culzean Castle in Scotland.
Hôtel Baudy
I’m so glad that, as we left Monet’s garden and pedalled back to Vernon, we parked our bikes and stopped for a cider in the garden of the Hôtel Baudy. We read the menu and learned the history of this charming little inn. In 1886 an American artist, Willard Leroy Metcalf, entered the buvette-épicerie (café/general store) looking for a place to stay. Owner, Madame Baudy, had no room and was terrified by this “strapping fellow, a vagabond type who expressed himself in incomprehensible gobbledygook.” He left but returned several days later with three other painters. This time Madame Baudy gave up her room and Metcalf learned that Claude Monet was living nearby. News spread of Monet’s whereabouts and every weekend a train of “cheerful bearded artists” arrived from Paris and headed to the Hôtel Baudy because of its “ridiculously low prices”.
An artists’ studio was established in the garden and many paintings were offered in lieu of payment. Visitors included Renoir, Rodin and Sisley but mostly it was a place for American artists such as Sargent, Robinson and Cassatt. It soon became known as the American Painters’ Hotel.
As we left Giverny and headed back to our ship, it was extraordinary to think this little village in Normandy was the inspiration for so many artists. Monet made it his home but he encouraged other painters to spend time with him so they would be equally enchanted by its charms. Today, the 500,000 annual visitors would suggest it is still as captivating as ever.
Pin it for Later: Claude Monet’s garden in Giverny in summer
Read about our other excursions on the cruise: Rouen, Honfleur and Versailles
Joining Faraway Files
Thanks for taking me back to one of my favourite places in the world. We modelled a kitchen on the dining room there – the house is as beautiful inside as it is out. I love going in June.
I can totally see why you would have modelled a kitchen on that dining room: it’s the most gorgeous, fresh colour and design. I’m so pleased I’ve brought back memories of such a favourite place for you x
I will certainly keep early summer in mind as I would love to visit one day! Wish I could have seen your pix, but unfortunately they didn’t show up for me! 🙁 #FarawayFiles
Ah, so sorry you couldn’t see the images. Must have been a blip as it doesn’t seem to have been a problem for other readers. Hopefully you’ll come back for a look at the photos.
Givreny is a big gap on my French travels. The gardens look stunning. Next time I visit Paris we are definitely taking the train there! Thanks for enlightening me a little more. Wilbur #farawayfiles
Glad to have been able to help. A train ride there sounds a great idea.
That kitchen is pretty much my dream kitchen. I always find it incredible to see pictures of these gardens, knowing the paintings that it inspired. I need to see them for myself one day.
#farawayfiles
The house really was very pretty – all the rooms had these lovely fresh colours. I hope you get the chance to visit some day 🙂
Ah, cycling and cider drinking on a summer’s day, that sounds so delightful right now when it’s 2 degrees outside. I wonder what Monet’s garden looks like today in the middle of winter, I might look it up to find out! #farawayfiles
I remember being so hot we were desperate for a bit of shade. It’s hard to think of it being so warm, when we’re wrapped up against the cold!
I’ve had a quick look too – looks rather different but the low sun through the trees is appealing.
Oh it’s so dreamy. Thank you for showing the inside of the house as well – usually, people only share the gardens. I dying over that tile and the color of the fireplace! And how could you skip the adorable Hôtel Baudy – what a perfect place to stop. Just out of curiousity – how many people were on the cruise in total? #FarawayFiles
I didn’t get any photos of the bedrooms upstairs (too many people around, I think) but they did look charming. But I adored the yellow room – so very ‘now’ isn’t it!
I know we’ve chatted about the cruise numbers on Twitter but, for the record here, the cruise can take a maximum of 120 passengers. There were about 20 people (maybe a few more) on the cycle ride.
I love how we managed to visit so many of the same places last year, Trish. We did Rouen, Giverny and Versailles in our week in Normandy too. I’m so glad to read this. We visited at the end of October, shortly before the gardens closed for the season, so I was really interested to find out how different the experience was in the summer. I absolutely loved the inside of the house too, especially the yellow dining room. Thanks for sharing on #FarawayFiles
It is funny how we’ve been doing the same trips. I’ve loved reading your posts to find out what you did and to see your photos at a different time of year.
I’ve always wanted to visit Monet’s Gardens, and I had no idea about the Japanese garden. I hope to find my way there one day, until then your gorgeous photos will have to tide me over. #farawayfiles
I didn’t quite know what to expect. They are smaller than Id imagined but there was something so relaxed and easy about them – very different from Versailles anyway!
Wow you’re keen! That 15km kayak would have been quite enough excitement for one day for me. I can see why you didn’t want to miss out on the bike ride to Claude Monet’s garden though. It’s so beautiful (although it does like a little hot). #FarawayFiles
I struggled for the last few kilometres of the kayaking – my arms were giving out! The bike ride was fine but no respite from the heat until we reached the gardens. I’d earned my gin and tonic that night!
I enjoyed Monet’s garden so much – thank you for the walk down memory lane! His house was very quaint and nice too. I remember really liking the yellow room.
I’m so pleased to have brought back memories for you. The house was a surprise to me – I was ready to be impressed by his garden but had no idea the house would be so delightful.
Oooh – you’ve brought back happy memories of when we visited Monet’s Garden. That was in July and now I really want to go in Spring. We also had a drink in the Hôtel Baudy – lovely place with such a great history.
If I could just click my fingers I’d go there once a month just to check it out. Great to hear you had a drink at the Hotel Baudy too.
I trust that you had a Kir at sunset after such a packed day! #FarawayFiles
We definitely had something!
How lovely to see such glorious summer photographs on a grey freezing English day! Would love to go to Giverny, we went to a large waterlily garden that monet was supposed to have gotten his inspiration from. I still need to write about it! x
It’s a tonic, isn’t it. I do think he made it up as he went along. Apparently he dug out the ponds then thought he’d best fill them in a bit so got a plant catalogue to start buying!
That was certainly a busy day! Quite the work out as you say! Looks stunning though and well worth it all #farawayfiles
Definitely worth it but it was very hot.
Ahhh Giverny, we visited Monet’s garden a couple of years ago & it’s brought back some great memories. You can see why he fell in love with it. #farawayfiles
It can be a very peaceful place, even when it’s heaving with visitors. I can picture him finding a quiet spot and getting his paints out!
I’ve read some beautiful books on Monet’s garden, sadly never got to visit. Thanks for sharing #AllAboutFrance
Sometimes it’s lovely just to read about a place and see photos. I do this with every pretty place that’s on my list!
I have visited Giverny in the autumn, and it looks almost the same as in summer. When we went, I thought we may miss the blooms, but there was plenty of color. And the house is so charming, with all the bright yellows and blues. Your photos are beautiful!
That’s interesting about the autumn colours – glad you had lots of colour. I’d love to go back and spend some time just relaxing in the garden
I have visited the gardens but could not go Inside the house due to time constraint. I have been meaning to go back again. Your post reminded me about it. Enjoyed reading the post.
We were like that in Versailles – did the outside and not the house. It’s hard when you’re pressed for time, isn’t it.
I’m loving the sound of your active cruise with the youngies who can’t keep up! But then it doesn’t surprise me, all your holidays seems incredibly active to me. Thanks for showing inside Monet’s house as well as the gardens as I don’t think I’d ever seen inside before. Isn’t the kitchen gorgeous? Thanks for linking to #AllAboutFrance
The kitchen surprised me – it felt as if it was a new owner giving the house a vintage feel. So many things in it are fashionable now.
I love Monet’s garden and house – I’ve been in July but also really want to go in spring. PicturesI have seen of the bulbs are wonderful #AllAboutFrance
We need to have regular seasonal visits to see it in all its glory!