The Winter Olympics begins on 9 February 2018 in Pyeongchang and I, for one, will be rooting for our British competitor, Andrew Musgrave, in the cross-country skiing events. Although he now lives in Norway, Andrew was born in Dorset. He lived in Scotland from the age of 11, learning cross-country skiing at the Huntly Nordic and Outdoor Centre in Aberdeenshire. He is taking on the mighty Norwegians at their own sport in South Korea and actually has a chance of a medal.
Have a look at this inspiring video clip where Andrew explains how cross-country skiing may well be the toughest sport in the Olympics. Which begs the question, what on earth possessed Dougie and I to book ourselves on the Inntravel cross-country skiing try-it-out week last month, in Finland?
What is cross-country skiing?
There are two types of cross-country skiing: classic and skating. Classic involves skiing in prepared parallel grooves on a compacted track; skating is performed on the track with no grooves. We learned how to master classic skiing. Initially you move by just walking or striding out on the skis, but gradually you learn a ‘kick and glide’ technique, which propels you forward more quickly.
There are two sets of grooves for classic skiing and you usually ski on the right hand side. If it’s very quiet and you want to chat to your other half, one of you can ski on the left-hand side until you see someone approaching – handy for taking a quick photo (see below).
We began our cross-country skiing lessons at our hotel, Ylläshumina, in Lapland. Within our first 90 minute lesson, we had learned the rudiments of the sport and were able to tackle gentle inclines. Although most of the terrain you ski on will be moderately flat, there will be some hills so it’s important to master techniques for dealing with them.
To walk up a hill, you can stay in the groove and take lots of little steps. This, I discovered, takes a lot of muscle power and I’m sorely lacking in that department. I found it easier to use the herringbone method: move out of the tracks and stomp up the hill with your skis making a V-shape.
To ski down a hill you can remain in the grooves and enjoy the thrill of momentum taking over until you gently glide to a halt as the terrain levels again. If you are unsure, you can take one ski out and use it in a ‘snowplough’ position to brake the speed a little. The third option is to step out of the grooves and snowplough with both skis down the hill, as you would have done as a beginner skier in Alpine/downhill skiing.
What equipment do you need?
If you are learning to cross-country ski, all the equipment will be provided. The skis are much narrower and lighter than normal skis. Traction is gained by having skis with a ‘fish-scale’ texture on the base or by applying special wax, which allows for sliding but grip when weight is applied.
Anyone who has been downhill skiing will agree that the boots are very large and heavy. Not so for cross-country skiing. Soft, leather, fleece-lined boots are a joy to wear. They only attach to the skis at the toe so are comfortable and flexible, allowing the heel to rise as you propel yourself forward.
Poles are similar to those used in alpine skiing, but longer.
What do you wear?
Even though we were skiing in temperatures of between -9 and -25C, it would have been unwise to wear a traditional alpine ski jacket and salopettes. Cross-country skiing is an excellent form of cardiovascular exercise so you do become warm. I wore a thick ski jacket on one day and was so hot, I was peeling off layers within a few minutes. It’s no wonder Andrew, our Olympic hopeful, strips off to his pants when he’s in training (check out that video ^^^). We made use of our Alpine outfits when we were out walking instead.
I would recommend thin layers – a base layer (merino wool was excellent for me), a fleece mid-layer and a windproof jacket. Long johns on your legs plus thin, fairly stretchy, windproof trousers. The snow in Lapland was very dry so we never became wet.
It’s quite hard to source proper cross-country gear in the UK. Decathlon is your best bet or search online for suppliers such as Odlo, where Dougie bought his very fetching, rather tight-fitting trews.
Unlike alpine skiing, no helmets are required for safety: a woolly hat will suffice. Gloves, a buff/scarf, and maybe some sunglasses if it’s bright. We left our ski goggles at home but, in hindsight they might have come in handy – I kept fogging-up my prescription specs if I breathed into my buff when it was covering my nose. The goggles would have prevented that.
Where can you go to try cross-country skiing?
Ylläs in Finland was ideal for a beginner – lots of easy blue trails around Lake Äkäslompolo. Inntravel provide try-it-out weeks here for guests to learn alongside others. There are similar weeks arranged at resorts in Norway, Austria and Switzerland.
I’ve written an article for Inntravel about what’s involved in a cross-country try-it-out week. Using Bridget Jones for inspiration, here’s my daily diary of skiing exploits.
What did we enjoy about cross-country skiing?
- It’s less scary than downhill skiing. There is still plenty of excitement but we both felt more in control as you can ski at your own pace.
- You can often pick up a trail straight from your hotel so there’s no waiting around. No need to queue for a ski lift either.
- The scenery is stunning. In Lapland we were skiing on very quiet trails through the woods, along river valleys and across frozen lakes. It was wonderful to just stop, appreciate the silence and move on again.
- When you do meet other people, it’s like being on a walking holiday – a nod or a smile as you pass.
- There are plenty of trails to choose from: if some of them look too long, grab a taxi (or bus/train in some countries) to take you to one end of the trail so you can ski back.
- It’s great exercise. A couple of hours steady skiing proved to be an excellent workout without being a strain on our joints.
- Pick trails which pass cafes so you can break up the day with a hot chocolate and a donut or two – you’ve earned it! Navettagalleria was our favourite.
Would we do it again?
Yes, absolutely! We’ve got all the gear now, so it would be a shame to waste it. Cross-country skiing is a fantastic way to enjoy a winter holiday if you don’t fancy downhill skiing. We’re keen to explore the trails elsewhere in Europe or return to the magical Ylläs fells in the future.
We’d love to consolidate what we did and continue to improve but I don’t think we’ll be hot on the heels of Andrew Musgrave any time soon…
We booked our own Cross-country skiing ‘Try it Out Week’ with Inntravel. We did receive a small discount in exchange for an article I wrote for their website.
I find it a lot less scary than downhill. That, plus snow shoeing, and apres ski make a holiday with my lot (with no fear!) a lot mroe enjoyable for me! 😀 Glad you enjoyed it. Your photos are beautiful! 🙂 x
I definitely think this is the way we are going. I quite enjoyed downhill but I think I’ve reached my limit and Dougie isn’t happy to risk further injury.
Cross-country skiing and yes, a bit of snow-shoeing and relaxation at the bar is a perfect way to enjoy a winter holiday xx
What an amazing place to learn how to cross country ski!! I keep telling my husband I would love to learn to do this! Normally skiing or snowboarding I just don’t do anymore, too afraid of breaking an arm or leg! But this I can definitely get on board with, especially in Lapland!! #FarawayFiles
This is partly why we were keen to try – my husband has some old sporting injuries and although we loved trying downhill skiing a couple of years ago, we felt we had come to it too late, scared to push ourselves for fear of more injury. Cross-country skiing was no cop out: it was a great form of exercise.
I love downhill skiing, but I haven’t tried cross country skiing. Probably, because it doesn’t look as exciting as downhill skiing, but I would still love to try it. Seems like a great exercise. Thanks for this informative post! #FarawayFiles
I think it’s tougher for competent downhill skiers to adjust to cross-country as it can take time to feel balanced. It’s worth a try, even if it’s just to know whether you want to try it again in the future!
It’s amazing exercise – I was very tired at the end of each day – but you can take it easy if you want to.
Cross-country skiing is hard work as I recall! I haven’t done it since I was a teen as I prefer to schuss down the mountain alpine style, but I could definitely be convinced of another try in Lapland. I love that purple and pink winter sky! So stunning. Gold medal for you for your efforts on skis! A perfect post to share with #FarawayFiles, Erin
If you’re a keen downhill skier, I can see why cross-country skiing might not appeal as a sport. When you’re getting a bit older, like me, it’s something to consider! And in Lapland, it can just be something you try, the same as reindeer safaris, dog-sledding etc. It’s a lovely way to explore the wilderness.
Will wear my medal with pride!
As you know we love cross country skiing (indeed I am typing this in deepest Norway). I downhiller skied for many years but would always opt for cross country now #FarawayFiles
Ah, my cross-country skiing inspiration! Interesting to know you made the swap from downhill to cross-country.
I have never tried skiing, but always something i wanted to try. Ive been watching the winter Olympics and they make it look so easy! Such a great post and a beautiful place for a holiday!
They do make it look easy, particularly the uphill bits. Maybe I’ll look like that next time 🙂
You have made me rethink snow sport I must admit. I injured one of my knees very badly 22 years ago downhill skiing and haven’t been back to the slopes since.
I’ve wanted badly to go back but cannot downhill ski anymore. Never have I seriously considered cross country. You have given me ideas. Catching lifts up and down and going across country could be the answer. Thanking you whole heartedly… Annette #FarawayFiles
I’m so pleased I’ve given you food for thought, Annette. It was an old injury to my husband’s knee which has put us off downhill skiing for so many year. We did try it a couple of years ago but Dougie felt there was too much pressure on his knees, and other injuries were hurting by the end of the week. He found cross-country skiing a revelation. It uses plenty of muscle power but there’s no awkward angles, twisting or jerking. One of the books I read suggested the sport was actually very good for alleviating injuries because of the muscle groups involved.
Yes, you might feel like Bambi at the beginning, getting used to the narrow skis, but it’s not far to fall.
We didn’t need any ski lifts in Finland but of course, as you say, in other regions you can use lifts to reach the top and cross-country ski off from there – sounds great. Let me know how you get on, if you decide to give it a go.
Thanks Trish, Dougie is right about the pressure on the knees. The sideways motion is prohibited for me, but this is essential for downhill skiing so I will give cross country a go at some stage.
Your photos are absolutely beautiful, Trish. I’ve been cross country skiing too, in Norway. It’s such a great way to admire the gorgeous scenery there although I have to admit I struggled with stopping and braking elegantly! #FarawayFiles
It’s harder to balance on cross-country skis, isn’t it. They are so much narrower. You’re right – it’s a great way to admire the scenery – you can always stop for a breather, which I frequently did!
You have no idea how timely this post is for me. We’re heading out to Colorado soon where we’ll be cross country skiing – something I haven’t done since I was a kid, so I will keep all these tips handy! I hear it’s the absolute best exercise too, as you mentioned. #farawayfiles
Oh I’ll keep an eye on your posts. It was in Colorado where we learned downhill skiing: we loved it there, so many happy memories at Winter Park and Steamboat Springs.
I’ve only tried cross-country skiing once, for a couple of hours, and found it hard. Because the skis were much thinner than the ones used in downhill skiing, I found it difficult to control them – and kept falling over! We were on a bit of a hill, though, so perhaps it would have been easier on flat ground. You’ve inspired me to want to try again!
It is harder to master than people might think. You would definitely have been better on a flat ground to start off with. I found I was wobbly when I was out of the parallel grooves but fairly secure within them!
I’v down hill skied for many years and never been overly tempted by cross country, however having read this I can absolutely see the appeal. The fleece lined boots alone might be enough reason to ditch down hill! #FarawayFiles
It’s interesting to hear from downhill skiers – most have never been keen on trying cross-country. I think because we had only been downhill skiing once, it was easier to adapt. The boots were gorgeous – so light and comfortable.
First off let me say those pictures look stunning I wish I was there right now, it looks like Christmas heaven and let me tell you I’m a Christmas freak lol. I didn’t know much about cross country skiing but it sure sounds amazing after reading this. Great article!