“We rumbled slowly into a land of little wooded glens and then to a great wide moorland place, gleaming with lochs, with high blue hills showing northwards.”
John Buchan, The Thirty-Nine Steps.
Buchan’s thrilling novel, with spies, secrets and a seemingly unending chase, was one of the first things I noticed when we entered Shingle Lodge, luxurious self-catering accommodation in the grounds of Knockinaam Lodge hotel. It was sitting on a shelf in the living room just waiting to be picked up and read. I curled up on the sofa, turned the page, and became absorbed in his descriptions of the Galloway scenery, whilst looking out of the vast picture windows and seeing it all for myself.
Dougie and I had visited Knockinaam Lodge last year, driving across the gentle hills and stunning coastline of Dumfries and Galloway to reach the very western part of the region. We had been so enchanted by the beauty, history and cuisine of Knockinaam that we vowed we would return some day. We hadn’t quite anticipated that we would be back within a year but, by chance, Shingle Lodge was available for a few days following Rory’s graduation and we knew we wanted to share the experience with him.
Whereas Knockinaam Lodge itself is an old beauty, with a gracious, genteel air about it, Shingle Lodge is a brand new, contemporary cottage, cleverly designed so that both parts of it, the living and sleeping quarters, have views across the sea to Ireland. It’s surprisingly well-hidden from the main house so it feels as if you have the whole bay to yourself. I was torn between relaxing with Richard Hannay or just gazing out to sea.
Let me describe Shingle Lodge for you. A large living/dining area with leather chairs, warm touches of tartan and a log burner with a towering flue heading skywards up through the high ceiling above. A fully-fitted kitchen with Neff appliances, Nespresso coffee machine and some provisions including milk, jam and shortbread. Two double bedrooms, bright and airy, again with stylish furnishings. Each bedroom has its own bathroom, one with a huge shower/wetroom making this a great option for disabled guests. Bathrobes are provided and top quality towels too. Between the two sections of the lodge there is a lobby area, with lots of space for coats and boots. There’s underfloor heating throughout which makes this a perfect choice for a summer or wild winter break.
Outside is a large shed piled high with logs, pretty gardens all around and a huge wooden climbing frame for children. The kitchen gardens for the hotel are also nearby. We were constantly distracted by the family of rabbits outside the window and two mating roe deer also added to the entertainment during our stay.
Tempting as it was to shut the door and not surface for three days, the thought of Tony Pierce’s superb cooking lured us from our lair that first evening. We trotted over to the hotel and enjoyed another sublime meal. As we drank G&Ts in the morning room, having sunk into the enveloping sofas, we tucked into an amuse bouche of crispy black pudding and beetroot accompanied by handmade crisps and cheese straws. The rest of the set menu consisted of consommé of cherry tomato with a parmesan crisp; wild trout with olive tapenade; soup of white onion, leek and curry oil; cannon of Galloway lamb with pea and mint puree and potato bonbons; tuile with strawberries, cream and ice-cream. Coffee to follow with handmade petits fours of orange and Grand Marnier jellies, brandy snaps and honey madeleines.
On our second and third nights we made use of the barbecue and the patio furniture and enjoyed some al fresco dining. As the sun set behind the cliffs, we were treated to pale pink skies and then, as darkness descended, we could pick out twinkling lights on the horizon, coming from the towns on the east coast of Northern Ireland.
Shingle Lodge is a superb addition to the Knockinaam experience. I honestly think, if they put it up for sale, we would be tempted to buy it and retire here. At the very least we need regular top-ups of Dumfries and Galloway and this is the perfect place to do just that.
I finished reading The Thirty-Nine Steps during our stay and, as I placed it back on the shelf as we packed our bags to leave, I could see why Buchan decided to use this magical part of Scotland as a backdrop for his tale.
“..every hill showing as clear as a cut amethyst…this blessed, honest-smelling, hill country…”
Trish, this sounds divine. I’ve not been to this part of Scotland, but it’s on my list now.
Dougie had never been either until last year. He is from Edinburgh and yet it just wasn’t on his radar. It’s only a short hop from the Lake District. So many lovely areas – coast, woodland, hills but nothing too extreme that would make driving difficult.
Looks wonderful. I’m looking at these rentals with a new eye as I bought a tiny (15m²) flat in Montpellier and the current tenant is saying he’s going to leave soon, in which case I’d like to freshen it up a bit and maybe put it on AirBnB. I was in Ikea yesterday looking at their stuff to get more ideas. It’s easy when you’ve got a ton of money, but when you have to do things frugally, it takes a lot more effort! 🙂
Buchan wrote other books set in the area. You can get his collected works on Kindle (I got it free), and settle down for an orgy of adventure stories.
We’ve been to a lot of self-catering places and I think you could definitely do it a bit more frugally, especially as everyone loves clean, contemporary lines. Don’t skimp on towel quality and you’re half way there!
Will definitely hunt out the collected works – great tip, Sarah, thank you x
we are doing a scottish road trip in the winter. going to look this place up
#farawayfiles
Ooh let me know if you do. I’ve lots of posts about Scotland from last year’s trip and in other years, if you’re looking for any tips – just let me know.
Wow, that place looks absolutely amazing and so relaxing. I love that they have a wood burner, that must be so nice at night. So reading or chatting by the fire.
#FarawayFiles
It was too warm when we were there to actually light the log burner. Another reason to return in the colder months and test it out.
I love The Thirty Nine Steps and this looks like a special place to read it #FarawayFiles
I’d never read it before so it was quite a treat for me and being in Galloway made it extra special.
So cosy, yet modern – the perfect getaway! I’d love to explore this part of Scotland and sit down to that amazing feast. I think the Scots really make the most of their local produce – that dinner sounds delicious! #FarawayFiles
I agree – I’m a bit picky and some self-catering options are either too stark or too chintzy. The food was sublime – perfectly cooked.
This place looks amazing. I love hearing about wonderful little self-catering cottages, especially when there is a superb restaurant and it’s in Scotland! #farawayfiles
Definitely one of our best finds. The chef has had a Michelin stars for over 20 years. Sadly he lost it last year but his cooking is wonderful: he knows what his customers love.
Shingle Lodge is tastefully furnished and with that view I am sure it is regularly booked. How clever to have it hidden from the main lodge and to have both sections of the Lodge enjoying full views of the bay. A super find #FarawayFiles
We were quite surprised it had vacancies – they need to shout about it a bit more. It is pricey though but well worth the splurge for the location and quality of the build.
I love the sound of that log burner! And I can just picture myself curling up in one of those beautiful leather chairs with a good book and a fire going. What a gorgeous place to get away to! #FarawayFiles
In the summer it’s so warm with the sun shining in the windows and in the winter you have every heat source available to keep you toasty warm. We loved it.
Oh, and happy graduation to Rory!
Thank you!
Shingle lodge looks lovely, particularly the views of the sea from the property. And, lovely that you made it back to the lodge with your family after enjoying it last year. #FarawayFiles
I love being near the sea so this was just a wonderful location. It did feel very special bringing Rory here and rather than just booking tow rooms in the hotel.
What a place. Don’t tell Dougie, but I haven’t been to Scotland yet, so when I do, I am going to be bugging you for all kinds of information!! 🙂 x
I’d love to see your Instagram feed when you do – you’ll be in your element. x
This looks so my style. What a lovely space to seclude yourself away, but also draw you out. Delightful! Thank you for sharing with #FarawayFiles, Erin
Thanks Erin – it certainly was a very special place.