There was something very Enid Blyton about our recent trip to Devon, starting with the beautiful accommodation, Tamarisk Beach House. I was so delighted with the house, I penned a few words for the Unique Home Stays website, hopefully capturing that magical Famous Five feeling: Four go to Woolacombe
From our holiday home we could see Baggy Point, the wonderfully named headland at the southern end of Woolacombe Bay. We were all keen to explore it but, in hindsight, should have gone on foot across the dunes. But, as my article for the Lincolnshire Free Press shows only too well, when Dougie and I had tried before to stick to the proper route of the famous South West Coast Path, this hadn’t gone quite as planned.
We drove there.
Bad idea.
Everyone knows some of the roads in the south west can be a little narrow but this journey was made all the more difficult because we had failed to spot the sign pointing to a diversion because of a road closure. Hence, we came to a dead end at Georgeham, only to turn round in a car park and have to find a more circuitous, narrower route to our destination: the National Trust car park at Croyde.
It was just as well Dougie was driving as I seem to have developed a worrying inability to judge car widths over recent years. Nevertheless I’m sure my breathing in as we squeezed past cars coming in the other direction made all the difference. In years gone by, we would have driven a clapped-out jalopy, happily pulling into passing places and putting up with the odd scratch to the paintwork. Now we have joined the ranks of those annoying urban folk in their lah-di dah 4x4s, trying to inch past other drivers, similarly cocooned, whining that the alloys might get damaged and being unable to think straight as the sensors keep bleeping with every tumbling gorse bush.
Thankfully we reached the start of the ‘easy short circular walk’ without losing a wing mirror and began our hike. I had told everyone to wear plenty of layers as we would be going out to the very end of Baggy Point but the weather proved to be ridiculously warm and we began disrobing with every step. Even the Buffs came off…
We passed some whale bones from an unfortunate creature which had washed up on Croyde beach in 1915. The Hyde family, who gave Baggy point to the National Trust in 1939, had kindly preserved them for visitors. I reckon it was either a very small whale or they’d mislaid some bones along the way.
The scenery was breathtaking, thanks to the glorious weather, and we could clearly see Lundy Island in the distance. We sat for a while just soaking up the sun and listening to the waves crash against the rocks below us as the sea-birds wheeled above our heads.
The route back was well-marked, taking us via a memorial stone to Henry Williamson, author of Tarka the Otter, which was written when he was living nearby in Georgeham.
One of our better decisions of the day was to pop into the Sandleigh Tea Room on our return to the car. A gorgeous place, with pretty gardens and community allotments, it served up delicious lemonade and freshly-pressed apple juice that our famous four felt they had justifiably earned after their adventure.
From Croyde we drove happily on a much wider road to Braunton to try out award-winning Squires Fish and Chip Restaurant. As a family we are very keen to test ‘award-winning’ chippies. In Bridlington we fell in love with Sewerby Fisheries and in Seahouses we gave the gong to Pinnacles Restaurant.
I’m always swayed by a celebrity champion. Hence, when the Hairy Bikers claimed Pinnacles had the best fish and chips in the country, I was always going to be persuaded.
Squires also has its famous fans. Former Prime Minister, John Major, came with his wife Norma and declared ‘Fish and chips is one of my favourite meals and yours was the best I have ever eaten. Your kind hospitality and generous portions will be remembered for a long time.’ That’s some praise.
Camilla Dallerup, of Strictly Come Dancing fame, said, “Would drive miles and miles for your fish & chips.”
Even fellow fish restaurateur, Rick Stein, commended the ‘very light batter covering a thick fillet of very fresh fish and the chips were thick and floury on the inside and beautifully crisp on the outside”.
So, who wins? Hairy Bikers or Rick Stein?
The fish batter was beautifully light and crisp in Squires and we had a delicious meal. I think, however, and only by a chip’s breadth, my vote would go to Sewerby Fisheries but maybe because we ate them from their thick paper wrapping, looking out to sea, rather than inside a restaurant looking out onto the busy traffic of the A361.
Juliana, however, our designated foodie connoisseur, gave her vote to Pinnacles.
Which just goes to show that either we all have different requirements for the perfect fish & chips or Camilla Dallerup hasn’t been to Seahouses.
We have such a beautiful country don’t we? What a stunning walk (I loved that you found the hamper first in your Unique Home Stays article Trish! :D), I wonder how big the poor old whale really was! I seriously wish we had a fish and chip shop nearby now!! Emma xx
I might have found the hamper first but it was the ‘kiddies’ who attacked it! Though I was the first to get hold of the Prosecco 😉
I thought I had taken a photo of the bones but I must have just laughed instead.
Those narrow roads sound very much like similar ones in Wales. And they have high hedges too just to give you the complete claustrophobic experience. 🙂
What a lovely walk though, some fabulous views, and a well-deserved dinner. It’s quite an adventure finding a good chippy these days!
Yes we had some high hedges too – and not enough passing places.
It was a super little walk though and yes, the dinner ended the day just right.
Love the views and keen to try both the tearoom and fish and chips! We went to this area many, many years ago and thought it was lovely then. Would very much like to go back – I’d let Brian do the driving……
It’s not somewhere we had been before but it was a stunning part of the country. Good idea about the driving – I was so much better at navigating.
That’s one of my favourite areas, would have loved to have a place down that way, but the roads are so windy and with high hedges that it just took hours.
What a fab Enid Blyton getaway, we read lashings of her while growing up in NZ, always wanting to go to boarding school and have ginger beer, but later they banned her from the local library.
This looks like such a beautiful place to visit. Sorry to hear about the driving problems though! All part of the adventure 🙂
Whenever things don’t go quite right on our travels, the family always say “It’s great blog material!”
We’re so lucky to have such stunning scenery here, must get out and visit this place. We love walking along the coast line, our favourite is Giants Causeway. Sounds like you had a great day, next time don’t take the car 😉 #MondayEscapes
I was born on the north east coast and have a hankering to see the sea on holiday. Still not been to Giant’s Causeway so must put that right.
I used to live in Devon, about 5 miles off the ‘main’ road through single track lanes with high hedges so I know exactly how you feel (I always managed to meet the dustbin lorry). The area around Woolacombe is lovely, must attempt to visit Baggy Point one day. #Mondayescapes
We did meet a bin lorry on our way home: thankfully he decided to reverse as I think he spotted the panic on our faces. Baggy Point was great to visit and a very easy walk if you’re not feeling too adventurous.
Great photos! #MondayEscapes
Kate |
The walk looks fantastic but with all this talk of fish and chips, I am now rather hungry!
And I have had dinner! xx
I haven’t had dinner yet so this has got me hungry just replying. X
Sounds like the perfect end to the day – great fish and chips! If I had been driving, I think we would have lost a wing mirror – I am also bad a judging widths. Glad that didn’t spoil a great day and hike! Love the photo of you all! Thanks for linking up with #MondayEscapes
Glad I’m not the only one. I very rarely have accidents but two have involved me driving into my own garage…!
Great account of the Baggy Point walk Trish. Glad you all enjoyed it. It’s one of our regulars as we’re lucky enough to live in Braunton. We’ve become an expert at these narrow lanes now – my reversing has never been so good (!) although you can’t escape the bramble scratches down the side of the car! Currently waiting for the swell, tide and sunshine to coincide to explore the Baggy Point sea caves which criss cross all over beneath the penisular! Definitely agree with you on Sandleigh Tea Rooms – such a gem of a place – I might be needing a hot chocolate there after the sea caves!
Hello Mags – thanks so much for reading and for taking the time to comment. I live in Lincolnshire where we barely have a hedge by the roads – just miles and miles of flat fields, so you can see why I need to breathe in when driving in the South West!
I need to go back to explore the sea-caves then – and the hot chocolate 🙂