I don’t know what possessed us to tackle the strenuous hike from the centre of Honfleur up to Mont-Joli. It was a sweltering hot day during the heatwave of 2018. I was unsuitably dressed in a cotton frock and flimsy sandals. I gasped and complained all the way up, wishing I’d been carrying walking poles and wearing stout boots.
Hike up to the Côte de Grâce
It had all started so well. We had a few hours to ourselves in Honfleur. This gorgeous Normandy town, rich with a historic and artistic heritage, was an excursion on our U by Uniworld river cruise. After a short orientation walk with our guide, we were left to our own devices. Sensible people chose to spent the time in an outside café, slurping cider whilst admiring the old harbour and the achingly pretty houses. To be fair, we did do this but only briefly. I blame the very persuasive chap at the tourist office who provided us with a map and suggested a circular walk up to the Côte de Grâce, a hill to the west of the town. It was only 2.5km and we would be rewarded with magnificent views over the city and the famous Pont de Normandie, the longest cable-stayed bridge in the world, which stretches 2141km across the mouth of the Seine to Le Havre.
We did notice the route on the map had a short but extremely wiggly line on it. This was the Rampe de Mont-Joli and it was a heart-stopper. However, agony and ecstasy go hand in hand so we staggered to the viewpoint and then took in the sight of the town of Honfleur, the Normandy Bridge and the countryside of the Seine valley.
Feeling euphoric and slightly delirious we continued our walk to the Chapelle Notre-Dame de Grâce. This delightful little church was founded by Richard II and was the place where the last king of the French, Louis Philippe and his wife, Marie-Amélie, took sanctuary before leaving for England where he later died in Claremont, Surrey. There is another viewpoint from here that looks to the north, over the Seine, better seen through the telescope that’s positioned there.
The Vieux Bassin
An easy saunter back down the Charriere de Grâce and we had returned to the heart of Honfleur with its many gardens, beaches and its picturesque old town. The vieux bassin (old harbour) is probably the most visited part of the town and its here you can see the narrow houses for which Honfleur is justly famous.
These properties, squeezed together on the Quai Sainte-Catherine, actually have two ground floors – one opening out onto the quay and the other, a little higher up, onto the rue de Dauphin or rue des Logettes. Each house was owned by two different families and were constructed between the 16th and 18th centuries.
St Catherine
St Catherine in Honfleur is the largest wooden church in France. It was built by shipwrights in the 15th and 16th centuries. The first nave was constructed on the model of a market hall using naval techniques, hence, from the inside, the impression of an upside-down hull. In the 16th century a second nave was added, with a vault more like a Gothic church.
The bell tower is across the square. It was deliberately built away from the church so that parishioners would not be burnt if there was a fire.
Leading up from the Place Sainte Catherine are more streets full of boutiques, craft shops and art galleries. Pottering about and finding some shade in this delectable area was such a treat.
L’Enclos
The cobbled streets of l’enclos, once a medieval fortress, are also a joy to wander around. We didn’t hunt out the famous salt warehouses, unfortunately, but just spotting a tantalising glimpse of a hidden world through an open gate was enough to remind me that Honfleur is definitely worth a second visit. I’d make sure it wasn’t a Tuesday as two museums I’d wanted to see, dedicated to painter Eugène Boudin and the fantasy world of musician Erik Satie, were both closed on Tuesdays.
I do wonder, if we’d visited on a Wednesday, we might have spent so long in the museums that a scramble up the hill might not have been added to the agenda. But then we would have missed out on the breathtaking views across the estuary. We would also have missed the sign at the top of the hill which gave a touching description of the residents of Honfleur.
“The population of Honfleur, nestled at the foot of the Grace Hills, is protected by the Sainte-Catherine, Saint Etienne and Saint Leonard church towers. These inhabitants live in rhythm with the tide, close to their old basin {harbour}. They nostalgically dream about the great discoveries, navigators, painters, writers and poets that this magical place has always inspired. With the passing of time, the local community is increasingly proud of their city. They continue to protect it, so that the generations to come will always be able to enjoy this highly privileged corner of France.”
Other stops and excursions on our Seine river cruise were Versailles, Rouen and Monet’s garden.
Oh you have GOT to go back and go to the Satie Museum. My family still talk about it eight years later, it’s one of the best places we have ever been to!
Absolutely love your blog posts, I’ve passed on tips for so many places based on your recommendations.
I had heard so much about the Satie museum so was so disappointed that it was closed. Great to have another endorsement from you!
And thank you so much, Jen, for letting me know that my tips have been helpful – that makes it all worthwhile. 🙂
Honfleur always reminds me of an artist I knew as a child who was obsessed with painting the town. It’s pretty obvious why, it’s so darn pretty. It’s a hard one for me but I think cider and museums would probably win over the hike! Such a lovely day trip, made even better with a little Giverny afterwards!
It is such a pretty town and it was looking its best in the sunshine. If the museums had been open I do think the hike might have been given the heave-ho!
Honfleur is just beautiful, had to laugh at you in your unsuitable shoes though, totally the kind of thing I would do… Love both the tiny churches/chapels! #mondayescapes
I think I forgot I wasn’t on a walking holiday! The need to explore rather than just sit and chill must be the result of this new energetic me! x
Wow, it looks scorching hot! Well done you for taking on the walk – at least you were rewarded with that fabulous view. Makes me yearn to be in France – Magical. #MondayEscapes
It was – we must have been mad to try the walk but now looking back on the day, well worth it.
Honfleur is such a picture-perfect town with its beautiful harbour, cobblestone streets and restored houses. What a gorgeous view from the Côte de Grâce! I love how you included the description of the residents. #FarawayFiles
It’s a little beauty. I was very touched by the words about the residents and no wonder they are so proud of their wonderful town.
I have only had the pleasure of stopping here for lunch on a drive to Brittany a few years ago but unfortunately, despite it being summer, the weather certainly wasn’t as lovely as it was for your visit. But even on a grey drizzly day, it was still easy to see how beautiful the town is! The boutique shops are lovely, and the harbour is a lovely spot too.
Thanks for linking up to #MondayEscapes
I fancy going back for a bit of shopping. So many gorgeous little independents.
We loved Honfleur so much we stayed there nearly a week – I could have spent an entire day in the harbour alone, sipping wine and eating seafood. I really enjoyed the St Cathérine church too – it’s amazing how much like a ship’s hull it looks. Sounds like we should have done the hike above the town for those views though. Thanks for sharing on #FarawayFiles
When I saw Honfleur was on the schedule for the cruise, I remembered your trip. I also remember now you sat with wine and seafood – I should have paid more attention to that bit!
This is one of my favourite places to visit. I go once a year usually. It was lovely to wander through it with you xx #FarawayFiles
How wonderful to make it an annual trip. So many beautiful places around here.
I’d love to wander in such a quaint and beautiful destination. Those cobble stone streets definitely require proper shoes don’t they? Thank you for sharing your beautiful photos with us on #farawayfiles
I think my feet had boiled the day before in trainers so I thought I’d wear something cool to wander around the harbour! Silly me!
Just another excuse to go back then! I’ve made that mistake in the past too, now checking opening times is always on my travel prep. Looks so pretty, would love to visit Honfleur
#farawayfiles
I usually check when it’s our own trip but Tuesday was the day the cruise ship was moored nearby so no option! But we did have a fabulous day in the sunshine.
We are heading to Normandy in August, so I read your post with interest! I would love to hike up the hill, but I would wear tennies! Honfleur looks so charming! I love the cobblestone lanes.
There is so much to see in Normandy – I’m sure you’ll love it. Tennies – very wise!
I love the description of the residents and would want to see that as well as the harbour and the Satie museum! Sounds like one day might not be enough. Will make a mental note to avoid Tuesdays!
I’d heard about the Satie museum and was so keen to visit – another time, hopefully. If we hadn’t been on a scheduled stop as part of our cruise, I’d have definitely picked a different day!
Trish your post made me laugh as it is always me trying to hike up a mountain in completely inappropriate saltwater sandals. Honfleur looks absolutely beautiful with all the beautiful flowers and cobblestone paths. Thanks so much for linking up to #MondayEscapes
Glad I’m not the only one to get it wrong on the footwear front!
Honfleur and, in fact, all of Normandy, is gorgeous.
Wow! Honfleur is the most beautiful place in the world. Your article will help me whenever I am planning to visit this place.
We used to visit Honfleur regularly when we took the ferries to France.. Such a pretty place and lovely to amble around. We have a beautiful old (Victorian) watercolour of St Catherine Bell Tower, surrounded by women in traditional dress.. It still makes me smile #allaboutfrance
How lovely to have a painting to remind you of such a picturesque place.
You’re right about most people only visiting the harbour, well that is if I’m anything to go by. I’ve been to Honfleur many times but never been past the quayside restaurants! (In my defence nearly every time I’ve been catching a ferry nearby and short of time). I love finding out about the different churches and other attractions in the town. Thanks for sharing with #AllAboutFrance
Next time, put your sensible shoes on and head up into the hills! Next time I go, though, I’m staying by the quayside, sipping wine!
This is most definitely a cruise I would love to do once the kids are more self-sufficient. The destinations are amazing. What a beautiful Medieval town Honfleur is #AllAboutFrance
It was a fantastic cruise. The company, now just called U Cruises, is concentrating its trips on the Rhine and Danube this year. I hope they reinstate the French one as I thought it was wonderful. Other companies do this Normandy cruise though, with similar destinations. We’ve travelled with Emerald Waterways before – I can recommend them too.
I love your dress! Last time I was in Honfleur it was Valentine’s weekend in 2001 and we had a four month old baby with us. It was freezing outside and too hot in the hotel bedroom – for our first weekend away with baby, we were woefully unprepared. Still love Honfleur though! #AllAboutFrance
Thank you! I think it’s by Seasalt. Very useful cotton frock!
Ah those early days with a baby in tow – always so hard to prepare for all eventualities.
So many people never get beyond the harbour at Honfleur so I am so glad you (and your sandals) managed the walk! #AllABoutFrance
I’m really pleased we did now – we certainly made the most of our afternoon visit.