After Rüdesheim our ship left the Rhine to join the River Main on its way upstream towards the Main-Danube canal. The final three days of our Emerald Waterways river cruise became a bit of a berg fest: two bergs and a burg for the aptly named Burgesses to discover.
When we sailed through Frankfurt Dougie and I were enjoying a movie night: the swimming pool is cleverly covered over in the evening, becoming a stylish cinema with comfy chairs and buckets of popcorn. I knew of the city’s nickname, Mainhattan, but had no idea how astonishing Frankfurt would be at night. We left Helen Mirren and The Hundred Foot Journey for a few moments while we took in the sparkling cityscape. I wouldn’t have wanted to miss this sight and made a note to put a daytime trip to Frankfurt on our ever-extending ‘places we must visit’ list.
The following day we docked at Miltenberg and while most people joined the complimentary guided tour of the town and, in particular, Haupstrasse, with its numerous beautiful half-timbered houses, we decided to go off piste and climb up to Miltenberg Castle. Fabulous views of the town could be seen from this vantage point though I have to admit that, in the extreme heat of the day, it was the ice-cold glass of local Franconian Faust beer in the castle grounds which was the defining moment.
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| Miltenberg: view from within castle walls, Bridge Gate, view into castle gardens |
A leisurely saunter back through the town to spot some of the significant buildings including Gasthaus zum Riesen (Giant Inn) said to be one of Germany’s oldest taverns. There was a local festival in full swing in one part of the town and it was great to see other members of our ship throwing themselves into the party spirit, especially an elderly but very lively Australian lady who was invited on stage by the children’s entertainer to demonstrate her impersonation of a kangaroo. This went down a storm with the locals and the rest of the Emerald Star passengers.
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| More views of Miltenberg |
Another day, another burg; this time Würzburg, the ‘pearl of the Romantic Road’. We stuck with the guided tour here as it took us inside the ornate palace of the Prince-Bishops’ Residence, a UNESCO World Heritage Site which was quite magnificent. The entrance staircase and the White Hall were impressive, with Antonio Bossi’s intricate stucco work catching my eye in particular. Our guide, Andrew, added many excellent snippets of information, to make it even more appealing. We spent some time on our own in the town before rejoining our ship and catching up with other passengers who had chosen to take a day tour of Rothenburg.
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| Wurzburg Residence (l and r) with Marienberg Fortress (centre) |
Although the final stop on our week’s cruise was Nuremberg, it was the town of Bamberg where we spent our last full day of sightseeing. Bamberg was a joy, looking splendid with its window-boxes full of early summer blooms. Built on seven hills, the Old City is itself a UNESCO World Heritage Site and I’m not surprised as it was, architecturally, so utterly beautiful. The Old City Hall, constructed on a bridge over the River Regnitz, was just calling out to be photographed, together with the buildings and gardens in the Cathedral Quarter, revealing the transition from Romanesque to Gothic architecture. Everywhere we looked in Bamberg there was something to admire and yet it was an area called Little Venice, which I found to be very special. Former fishermen’s houses lining the bank of the river, they looked gorgeous when viewed from the opposite bank but even delightful when we discovered the lane behind the properties – a hidden gem worthy of the term.
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| Beautiful Bamberg |
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| Little Venice in Bamberg |
Too soon our week’s cruise was over for us. We were very sad to be leaving, especially when the majority of passengers were staying on another week to enjoy the delights of Vienna and Budapest. But we were taking home some superb memories of vibrant cities like Amsterdam and Cologne, historical castles on the Rhine Gorge and the exquisite beauty of the towns and cities on the River Main. And the whole experience had been effortless, gently sailing between stops, enjoying excellent food, drink and very entertaining company.
River cruising – I think I’m hooked.
Our Rhine-Main Discovery Tour was commissioned by Cruise International magazine. Dougie and I were guests of Emerald Waterways. All thoughts and opinions are entirely my own.
Fab!! Lovely photos and a super experience.
Oh it really was, Sarah. Writing about it some months later, it's all come back to me. And the people – staff and other guests – really made it special. We didn't know quite what to expect but it was so good we are keen to do another one!
I have enjoyed reading all your posts about your cruise, even if I did not always comment…
Pleased to see Frankfurt has been added to your "places to visit" list. How about adding "visiting Funky Wellies" to it too? ;o) xx
Ah my dear friend – yes, a visit to see you too. Frankfurt and Funky Wellies – it just goes together, doesn't it!
It does indeed! And you could definitely do both on the same trip, Frankfurt is pretty close to us. xx
We've been promising ourselves a river cruise forever, it's great to have your reactions!
A big fat yes from us – highly recommended.
This cruise sounds fascinating. I'd love to try river cruising, and to visit Bamberg.
It's a very civilised way to travel. I had no idea how picturesque these towns would be: they seemed to get prettier and prettier.
Gosh how fabulous, I love those old buildings of Europe, really miss them. Thanks so much for letting me know about the links today,..remedied now…
I love all the different places you go to see. We used to drive around Europe on our summer holidays (I remember visiting Wurzburg on one of these trips) but this sounds like a rather more luxurious way to do it. Those views are particularly fab!
Germany really has some beautiful spots doesn't it? I think you've sold me on the river cruise idea, I have always been jealous of those people onboard that we often see when visiting places. Now just to find someone to have the children… 😀
All very great towns!! Although I’ve been to Bamberg several times and have never seen a Gondola! I’m quite jealous! #FarawayFiles
Oh I must have been very lucky then! It was quite a surprise – but a very lovely one.
ooh my goodness I think you may have converted me to river cruising too Trish. My husband is keen to do a trip like this and I have been the one resisting but these pretty towns and half timbered houses are so my thing. The cruise aspect sounds relaxing too. Thanks for your insight into river cruising on #FarawayFiles
River cruise passengers tend to be older people but they are definitely more adventurous than you’d think. We had a blast – fab scenery, beautiful ship, great food – a very chilled way to see so many gorgeous places.
I absolutely loved the bridge in Bamberg – like a fairy tale come to life. I must have taken 50 pictures of it from all angles. I haven’t been to Miltenberg – I love anywhere with half-timbered houses and a castle, so thanks for the recommendation! The river cruising does sound lovely; must be very relaxing #FarawayFiles
The bridge was like a fairy tale come to life. I loved all the little towns on the route – couldn’t quite believe how exquisite they were and the castles too – enchanting. It was a relaxing way to travel – very smooth, no sea sickness on a river either!
I’ve never been sure about river cruising but looks like you had a good time. Something to think about #farawayfiles
I had always wanted to try it and it didn’t disappoint. The guided tours are optional or you can join them then wander off if it’s not for you. Lovely way to see lots of places and always something to see from the ship, unlike ocean cruises.
great trip!:) #farawayfiles
Thanks 🙂
Funnily enough, I’ve been reading a lot about river cruises recently and very tempted to try one. Yours sounds very enticing – even down to the bizarre lady doing the kangaroo impressions although sadly, I guess she doesn’t come free with every cruise! Bamberg in particular looks stunning. Thanks for linking up with #FarawayFiles
We had a fantastic time, Clare. River cruises still seem to attract older clientele, despite their best efforts to make them appeal to younger people. Having said that, our fellow guests were excellent company and up for anything, including the lovely Aussie lady.
I would love to do something like this. All those charming half-timbered towns and I love the perspective from the water. What a great post. Thanks for sharing with #FarawayFiles! Cheers from Copenhagen, Erin
One to do when the kids leave home, Erin. At 51 Dougie and I were the babies on the boat although there were two teenage boys with their parents and they seemed to be happy with a lot of spirited seniors!
I am in love with your photos and with these places. After taking some day cruises around the Danube Bend and the Wachau Valley, I understand why cruising is so popular in Europe. Everything seems to look better from the river. I enjoyed my short experiences a lot and I am ready for something longer. #FarawayFiles
Great to have a taster of cruising. We often have day cruises in cities like in Berlin and Copenhagen – it’s amazing what you do see from the water. It’s a very relaxing way to travel which is why it attracts the older clientele but younger passengers are realising it’s a great holiday experience.
Sounds majestic! I love all of the architecture in your photos. I’d love to try out a river cruise someday!
It’s well worth doing – you see so many different places without any hassle. This cruise included big cities like Amsterdam and Cologne mixed with pretty German towns – we loved it.
That’s a lovely experience. The movie night in the swimming pool area sounds like fun and your photos of Miltenberg, especially of the bridge gate, are beautiful.
I would definitely try a river cruise again. In fact my husband and I have agreed we must do the second half of the cruise to include Vienna and Budapest. We were the only people watching the movie that night – it was fantastic, curled up on the sofa eating popcorn.
This looks like such a civilised way to see all the different locations. I especially like the sound of a swimming pool doubling up as a cinema! #FarawayFiles
Civilised is definitely the word for it, Nell. We really did have a fantastic time. The ship was very chic and we loved the pool/movie area.