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Home  >  Blog  >  Rhine-Main Cruise with Emerald Waterways: Miltenberg, Würzburg and Bamberg

Rhine-Main Cruise with Emerald Waterways: Miltenberg, Würzburg and Bamberg

Trish Burgess Posted on14/12/201510/11/2016 Cruise, Germany 34 Comments

After Rüdesheim our ship left the Rhine to join the River Main on its way upstream towards the Main-Danube canal. The final three days of our Emerald Waterways river cruise became a bit of a berg fest: two bergs and a burg for the aptly named Burgesses to discover.

When we sailed through Frankfurt Dougie and I were enjoying a movie night: the swimming pool is cleverly covered over in the evening, becoming a stylish cinema with comfy chairs and buckets of popcorn. I knew of the city’s nickname, Mainhattan, but had no idea how astonishing Frankfurt would be at night. We left Helen Mirren and The Hundred Foot Journey for a few moments while we took in the sparkling cityscape. I wouldn’t have wanted to miss this sight and made a note to put a daytime trip to Frankfurt on our ever-extending ‘places we must visit’ list.

The following day we docked at Miltenberg and while most people joined the complimentary guided tour of the town and, in particular, Haupstrasse, with its numerous beautiful half-timbered houses, we decided to go off piste and climb up to Miltenberg Castle. Fabulous views of the town could be seen from this vantage point though I have to admit that, in the extreme heat of the day, it was the ice-cold glass of local Franconian Faust beer in the castle grounds which was the defining moment.

Miltenberg bridge gate
Miltenberg: view from within castle walls, Bridge Gate, view into castle gardens

A leisurely saunter back through the town to spot some of the significant buildings including Gasthaus zum Riesen (Giant Inn) said to be one of Germany’s oldest taverns. There was a local festival in full swing in one part of the town and it was great to see other members of our ship throwing themselves into the party spirit, especially an elderly but very lively Australian lady who was invited on stage by the children’s entertainer to demonstrate her impersonation of a kangaroo. This went down a storm with the locals and the rest of the Emerald Star passengers.

Miltenberg
More views of Miltenberg

Another day, another burg; this time Würzburg, the ‘pearl of the Romantic Road’. We stuck with the guided tour here as it took us inside the ornate palace of the Prince-Bishops’ Residence, a UNESCO World Heritage Site which was quite magnificent. The entrance staircase and the White Hall were impressive, with Antonio Bossi’s intricate stucco work catching my eye in particular. Our guide, Andrew, added many excellent snippets of information, to make it even more appealing. We spent some time on our own in the town before rejoining our ship and catching up with other passengers who had chosen to take a day tour of Rothenburg.

Wurzburg
Wurzburg Residence (l and r) with Marienberg Fortress (centre)

Although the final stop on our week’s cruise was Nuremberg, it was the town of Bamberg where we spent our last full day of sightseeing. Bamberg was a joy, looking splendid with its window-boxes full of early summer blooms. Built on seven hills, the Old City is itself a UNESCO World Heritage Site and I’m not surprised as it was, architecturally, so utterly beautiful. The Old City Hall, constructed on a bridge over the River Regnitz, was just calling out to be photographed, together with the buildings and gardens in the Cathedral Quarter, revealing the transition from Romanesque to Gothic architecture. Everywhere we looked in Bamberg there was something to admire and yet it was an area called Little Venice, which I found to be very special. Former fishermen’s houses lining the bank of the river, they looked gorgeous when viewed from the opposite bank but even delightful when we discovered the lane behind the properties – a hidden gem worthy of the term.

Bamberg
Beautiful Bamberg 

 

Little Venice Bamberg
Little Venice in Bamberg

Too soon our week’s cruise was over for us. We were very sad to be leaving, especially when the majority of passengers were staying on another week to enjoy the delights of Vienna and Budapest. But we were taking home some superb memories of vibrant cities like Amsterdam and Cologne, historical castles on the Rhine Gorge and the exquisite beauty of the towns and cities on the River Main. And the whole experience had been effortless, gently sailing between stops, enjoying excellent food, drink and very entertaining company.

River cruising – I think I’m hooked.

Our Rhine-Main Discovery Tour was commissioned by Cruise International magazine. Dougie and I were guests of Emerald Waterways. All thoughts and opinions are entirely my own. 

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34 Comments

  1. Sarah Reply
    14/12/2015 at 4:53 pm

    Fab!! Lovely photos and a super experience.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      15/12/2015 at 12:38 pm

      Oh it really was, Sarah. Writing about it some months later, it's all come back to me. And the people – staff and other guests – really made it special. We didn't know quite what to expect but it was so good we are keen to do another one!

  2. Funky Wellies Reply
    15/12/2015 at 8:30 am

    I have enjoyed reading all your posts about your cruise, even if I did not always comment…
    Pleased to see Frankfurt has been added to your "places to visit" list. How about adding "visiting Funky Wellies" to it too? ;o) xx

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      15/12/2015 at 12:39 pm

      Ah my dear friend – yes, a visit to see you too. Frankfurt and Funky Wellies – it just goes together, doesn't it!

    • Funky Wellies Reply
      18/12/2015 at 8:13 am

      It does indeed! And you could definitely do both on the same trip, Frankfurt is pretty close to us. xx

  3. wellfedfred Reply
    15/12/2015 at 2:42 pm

    We've been promising ourselves a river cruise forever, it's great to have your reactions!

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      16/12/2015 at 8:25 am

      A big fat yes from us – highly recommended.

  4. Mums do travel Reply
    15/12/2015 at 9:26 pm

    This cruise sounds fascinating. I'd love to try river cruising, and to visit Bamberg.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      16/12/2015 at 8:30 am

      It's a very civilised way to travel. I had no idea how picturesque these towns would be: they seemed to get prettier and prettier.

  5. About Last Weekend Reply
    17/12/2015 at 10:20 pm

    Gosh how fabulous, I love those old buildings of Europe, really miss them. Thanks so much for letting me know about the links today,..remedied now…

  6. Sarah Ebner Reply
    22/12/2015 at 3:42 pm

    I love all the different places you go to see. We used to drive around Europe on our summer holidays (I remember visiting Wurzburg on one of these trips) but this sounds like a rather more luxurious way to do it. Those views are particularly fab!

  7. BavarianSojourn Reply
    31/12/2015 at 2:29 pm

    Germany really has some beautiful spots doesn't it? I think you've sold me on the river cruise idea, I have always been jealous of those people onboard that we often see when visiting places. Now just to find someone to have the children… 😀

  8. Lolo Reply
    10/11/2016 at 9:25 am

    All very great towns!! Although I’ve been to Bamberg several times and have never seen a Gondola! I’m quite jealous! #FarawayFiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      10/11/2016 at 4:19 pm

      Oh I must have been very lucky then! It was quite a surprise – but a very lovely one.

  9. Katy Clarke Reply
    10/11/2016 at 10:00 am

    ooh my goodness I think you may have converted me to river cruising too Trish. My husband is keen to do a trip like this and I have been the one resisting but these pretty towns and half timbered houses are so my thing. The cruise aspect sounds relaxing too. Thanks for your insight into river cruising on #FarawayFiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      10/11/2016 at 4:18 pm

      River cruise passengers tend to be older people but they are definitely more adventurous than you’d think. We had a blast – fab scenery, beautiful ship, great food – a very chilled way to see so many gorgeous places.

  10. Different Shores Reply
    10/11/2016 at 12:48 pm

    I absolutely loved the bridge in Bamberg – like a fairy tale come to life. I must have taken 50 pictures of it from all angles. I haven’t been to Miltenberg – I love anywhere with half-timbered houses and a castle, so thanks for the recommendation! The river cruising does sound lovely; must be very relaxing #FarawayFiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      10/11/2016 at 4:16 pm

      The bridge was like a fairy tale come to life. I loved all the little towns on the route – couldn’t quite believe how exquisite they were and the castles too – enchanting. It was a relaxing way to travel – very smooth, no sea sickness on a river either!

  11. Wandermust mummy Reply
    10/11/2016 at 1:16 pm

    I’ve never been sure about river cruising but looks like you had a good time. Something to think about #farawayfiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      10/11/2016 at 4:11 pm

      I had always wanted to try it and it didn’t disappoint. The guided tours are optional or you can join them then wander off if it’s not for you. Lovely way to see lots of places and always something to see from the ship, unlike ocean cruises.

  12. Tanja (the Red phone box travels) Reply
    10/11/2016 at 2:17 pm

    great trip!:) #farawayfiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      10/11/2016 at 4:08 pm

      Thanks 🙂

  13. Clare (Suitcases and Sandcastles) Reply
    10/11/2016 at 3:04 pm

    Funnily enough, I’ve been reading a lot about river cruises recently and very tempted to try one. Yours sounds very enticing – even down to the bizarre lady doing the kangaroo impressions although sadly, I guess she doesn’t come free with every cruise! Bamberg in particular looks stunning. Thanks for linking up with #FarawayFiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      10/11/2016 at 4:08 pm

      We had a fantastic time, Clare. River cruises still seem to attract older clientele, despite their best efforts to make them appeal to younger people. Having said that, our fellow guests were excellent company and up for anything, including the lovely Aussie lady.

  14. Erin Gustafson Reply
    10/11/2016 at 5:54 pm

    I would love to do something like this. All those charming half-timbered towns and I love the perspective from the water. What a great post. Thanks for sharing with #FarawayFiles! Cheers from Copenhagen, Erin

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      12/11/2016 at 1:16 pm

      One to do when the kids leave home, Erin. At 51 Dougie and I were the babies on the boat although there were two teenage boys with their parents and they seemed to be happy with a lot of spirited seniors!

  15. Ruth Reply
    11/11/2016 at 1:38 am

    I am in love with your photos and with these places. After taking some day cruises around the Danube Bend and the Wachau Valley, I understand why cruising is so popular in Europe. Everything seems to look better from the river. I enjoyed my short experiences a lot and I am ready for something longer. #FarawayFiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      12/11/2016 at 1:13 pm

      Great to have a taster of cruising. We often have day cruises in cities like in Berlin and Copenhagen – it’s amazing what you do see from the water. It’s a very relaxing way to travel which is why it attracts the older clientele but younger passengers are realising it’s a great holiday experience.

  16. Courtney @ Adelante Reply
    11/11/2016 at 4:16 am

    Sounds majestic! I love all of the architecture in your photos. I’d love to try out a river cruise someday!

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      12/11/2016 at 1:11 pm

      It’s well worth doing – you see so many different places without any hassle. This cruise included big cities like Amsterdam and Cologne mixed with pretty German towns – we loved it.

  17. Ahila Reply
    12/11/2016 at 11:26 am

    That’s a lovely experience. The movie night in the swimming pool area sounds like fun and your photos of Miltenberg, especially of the bridge gate, are beautiful.

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      12/11/2016 at 1:06 pm

      I would definitely try a river cruise again. In fact my husband and I have agreed we must do the second half of the cruise to include Vienna and Budapest. We were the only people watching the movie that night – it was fantastic, curled up on the sofa eating popcorn.

  18. Nell (the Pigeon Pair and Me) Reply
    12/11/2016 at 2:57 pm

    This looks like such a civilised way to see all the different locations. I especially like the sound of a swimming pool doubling up as a cinema! #FarawayFiles

    • Trish Burgess Reply
      13/11/2016 at 6:42 pm

      Civilised is definitely the word for it, Nell. We really did have a fantastic time. The ship was very chic and we loved the pool/movie area.

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