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| Edinburgh Castle – atop volcanic Castle Rock |
We had never truly visited Edinburgh as tourists before this recent trip. As the place of Dougie’s birth and schooling, his relationship with the city is a very personal one. He may not have lived there for 30 years but he feels comfortable in the city, instinctively knowing how to get about and where to park, skills that were patently lacking as we navigated round Glasgow.
Past visits to the city have involved visits to friends and relatives, an eventful school reunion and a matinee performance of Starlight Express at the Edinburgh Playhouse, made all the more interesting by the presence of a man signing for the deaf on stage. Since then I have been unable to sing the title number without appropriate actions.
Edinburgh certainly put on a show for us this Easter. It welcomed Dougie back with open arms and bathed us all in sunshine when, for the first time, we saw this glorious city as others do. Oh my goodness, it’s a handsome beast: no wonder it’s a magnet for visitors.
On our first afternoon one of the first things we spied was the statue of Greyfriars Bobby, a faithful Skye terrier who became famous in Edinburgh in the 19th century for staying with his master’s grave for 14 years after he had died. In the churchyard you can see headstones for both Bobby and his master, Auld Jock.
Later that day we had a date with some woolly mammoths, at a special exhibition in the National Museum of Scotland. The museum itself is a joy for families, not least because it’s free. Meet a life-sized Tyrannosaurus Rex skeleton, peer at Bonnie Prince Charlie’s silver travelling canteen or marvel at Dolly the sheep, the world’s first cloned mammal. ‘Mammoths of the Ice Age’, although requiring an entry fee, gave us the chance to meet an exact replica of Lyuba, a baby mammoth that was perfectly preserved in the mud in which she had died nearly 42,000 years ago. Incredible.
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| Camera Obscura – Dougie’s magical powers – Juliana’s head served on a platter |
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| Sunshine on Leith where The Royal Yacht, Britannia, is moored. |
There was so much more we could have seen in Edinburgh: Holyrood Palace, the zoo, the Royal Botanic Gardens, Georgian House… In the short time we were there we tried to keep a balance between being a tourist and just soaking up the atmosphere. On one afternoon we chose Harvey Nichols over Edinburgh Castle (sacrilege!) then, after a satisfying browse, sat watching the world go by in St Andrew’s Square, which was carpeted in thousands of small light-bulbs, an installation created by Bruce Munro for the Edinburgh Science Festival.
As we sat, we watched the smart new trams gliding past:
“It’s a travesty!” announced my shocked husband, “All that money spent on the new trams and no-one is using them!”
We later discovered that the trams are currently being tested without paying customers: they aren’t being officially launched until May. Oops. Another reason to come back soon to Dougie’s home town, to try out the new transport system. Oh and I’m also coming back to see the Rosslyn Chapel. Plus, I’ve never been to the Festival.
All of which makes me wonder, why did my husband ever leave?
FACTBOX
Our trip was arranged by VisitScotland. We were given passes for all the attractions requiring an entry fee. For more information on holidaying in Scotland go to: www.visitscotland.com
National Museum of Scotland
Chambers Street, Edinburgh +44 (0)131 225 7534
Free Entry
Trish’s Top Tip: If you’re visiting this summer, look out for the UK’s only showing of the special exhibition, Ming: The Golden Empire, from 27 June to 29 October 2014.
Camera Obscura & World of Illusions
Castlehill, The Royal Mile. Edinburgh +44 (0)131 226 3709
Adults £12.95, children 5-15 £9.90
Trish’s Top Tip: Take time to use the free telescopes in the rooftop to look at the views of Edinburgh. If you want to stagger your visit, you can always get your hand stamped and return later in the day.
The Real Mary King’s Close
2 Warriston’s Close, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, 0845 070 6244
Adults £12.95, children 5-15 £7.45 . Children under 5 not admitted.
Trish’s Top Tip: Make sure you book your timed tour in advance. Wear sensible shoes as the ground is uneven.
Royal Yacht Britannia
Ocean Terminal, Leith, Edinburgh +44 (0)131 555 5566
Adults £12.75, Children 5-17 £7.75.
Trish’s Top Tip: Pauline, the resident confectioner, runs the NAAFI, which you will see half way round the tour. The fresh fudge she makes is heavenly. Try the chocolate orange swirl variety.
Hello Trish,
Yes, we should ask the same question…why leave Edinburgh? We have toyed with living there ourselves at one point. The New Town has such wonderful architecture and the city itself is always alive with events for all ages and tastes. A cultural Mecca we think.
You certainly seem to have done the city justice on this visit and yet there is still more for another time. We have never been there during the Festival and would dearly love to do that one day. It attracts so many international stars and also gives a platform for less mainstream performers. A perfect combination.
Good morning, Jane and Lance
I do think a Festival visit is a must. As a family we are keen supporters of theatre locally and, with the boys in particular, comedy. I can't quite believe we haven't made the trip in August before.
Thank you so much for coming over to comment.
I do understand how your husband feels, it's a strange feeling visiting a place where you belonged for so many years! Hurrah for great Edinburgh parking skills too! Is it lucky to touch Bobby's nose? I only ask as it's shiny and here in Munich all the lions (not real obv. that would be a bit stupid!) have shiny noses from people touching them for luck. Actually come to think of it Juliet (statue of, not person) both here and in Verona, has a shiny boob as to touch that is to bring you luck in love. Who makes these things up? 😀
There seems to be quite a story about Bobby's nose. I'm glad you asked as it was too wordy to include in the post itself. There hadn't been a tradition to rub his nose but over the years that is just what people have been doing – with the obligatory photo to accompany the gesture. Last year the statue was removed for his nose to be painted black again. Within 48 hours it was shiny again, apparently due to someone intentionally using an abrasive material. Very strange…
The Festival is as close to heaven on earth as I can imagine. You can eat like a king and laugh without stopping for days on end, plus prop up the bar with all sorts of characters.
See? Told you it was better!
Dougie definitely seemed more at home because, I suppose, he was!
Yes, I must do a Festival visit. Crazy we haven't been.
I have very happy but, alas, very vague memories of visiting Edinburgh with my Nan and Bampap when I was a pre-teen. I can remember the dark castle walls and how cold it was and we were excited to see a kilted piper… I really must head back to Scotland sometime soon and reconnect with my Scottish ancestry.
You must, Steve. It feels good to reconnect – doing Glasgow and Edinburgh together would be ideal for you. Loads for the kids too.
I have such happy memories of Edinburgh and it's surrounding areas – Need to take Papasaurus up there soon- he's never been to Scotland !
Well then, he deserves to be taken. I'm sure he will love it.
I took Lee to Edinburgh as an anniversary trip. Was lovely and would like to go back. We flew but i would actually like to train it and see the views on the way next time.
You're right, the views would be fabulous by train. When we drove back, we took the coastal road and it was wonderful, looking out to Holy Island as we headed to Newcastle.
I have only been once for 6 hours but I so want to return. What a great post
Thanks Becky. Six hours – ooh you just got a little glimpse of how great it is.
I'd love to take Mr Boo on a trip north of the border (he has never been). Edinburgh looks like an amazing city, not sure I could handle it at New Years though
I'm not sure I could, either!
I adore Edinburgh, I have happy memories of trips there. And a very scary memory of doing the Ghost Tour!
Ha! We haven't done the ghost tour. The Real Mary King's Close is only a little bit scary, although too much for one little girl – but I was very brave.
What a wonderful write up about an amazing city. I've been a couple of times but both times left feeling I hadn't really been able to experience it fully. We may be going again in the autumn so I am keen to do it properly this time! x
Every time we go we feel we have only scraped the surface – the mark of a great destination.
I love Edinburgh and it's one of those cities that I always dreamt of living in for a while. We've not been back since having kids, but seeing as some family friends moved there not so long ago we maybe out to rectify that situation.
It's far away for most of us, so not somewhere you can do for a day trip, but worth it if you can go and visit friends.
Och, when were you here? If it was the weekend of the 12th April, you could have come to the wedding reception (at the Playfair Library just around the corner from Chambers Street Museum). Did you take afternoon tea on the Britannia? We could do that next time you come up!
We missed the wedding! We arrived Sunday afternoon (13th) and left Tuesday morning. Didn't manage afternoon tea as headed to Newcastle after the Britannia visit.
Next time, Nana!
I was staying in Edinburgh on the 13th too – my friend from Deal rented an apartment in St. Mary's Street so we wouldn't have to travel back down the East Coast after the wedding – we were pretending to be students again for the weekend! You must go to 'The Witchery' (up by the Castle) next time you're here. Very atmospheric and great food too. Hurry up and come back!
I lived about 10 minutes walk from The Georgian House! I love going back now that my lovely son is a student there, great excuse to go home for me 🙂
We walked around the University area on the Sunday afternoon – both our teens (son and his girlfriend) thought it had a lovely vibe. Should have got them to apply there!
I've only ever driven through Edinburgh on my way to some where else. I really should take the time to stop and admire it properly! But now Splosh is living just down the road, maybe we'll actually get a proper visit in!
Great news! I'm sure you will love visiting.
What a wonderful city to visit – it's on my list of places to go and so glad you were lucky with the weather and were able to enjoy it in all its glory! As for your husband – he was meant to meet you, wasn't he? x
I think you're right. He was certainly delighted to be given the chance to visit Edinburgh again – I said it was my treat 🙂
I have been to Edinburgh once for a very quick stay and we had glorious sunshine and a fantastic time. I would love to go back and visit some of the places you have mentioned. I had no idea there is a Camera Obscura there!
I didn't realise either – it was a brilliant thing to do.
I am so chuckling at you OH distain of the empty trams, to find out they were being tested…hehehe
You should have heard him! He was grumbling about it all weekend until the final evening when we had dinner with his cousin and she enlightened us.
My fiancé was born in Scotland but hasn't been back for so many years. I really want us to go but I think with my love of castles, we may be there a while!! Thanks so much for sharing this xx
My pleasure. Hope you get the chance to see the Scottish castles soon x
Edinburgh….a city i always wanted to visit when i was still living in UK full time and never managed. I am hoping I will visited though before my 40th. Still 6 and a half years to go so quite a long time.
Beautiful pictures
Ooh yes you've got ages. Hope you get the chance to visit – it is well worth the trip.
We visited a couple of years ago to visit an exhibition and thought it was a truly lovely City….we did most of the touristy things you mentioned too but not all so we are due a return visit sometime.
I think my first visit to Edinburgh was when I was a little girl and needed a specialist kilt for my Highland Dancing. Glad to have had some reasons to return over the years.
Another excellent post Trish. My, but you can lovely travel guides. I've always got mixed feelings about Edinburgh, coming as I do from Glasgow, but you did make it sound lovely.
I wonder what will happen to Britannia if Scotland goes independent?
You didn't mention Rose Street, famous for having the best pub-crawl in Scotland. Was Dougie to feart to remind you?
You see, Dougie has mixed feelings about Glasgow, coming from Edinburgh. He found it quite tough to say he thought Glasgow was great even though he knew it was!
I suspect the Queen will send someone to fetch it.
Rose Street? No, he never mentioned it. I think most of his drinking occurred when he was at Uni in Aberdeen.
I NEED to know about the laundry
Very small room, reaching temperatures of over 40 degrees. Many of the men had six or more changes of uniform a day depending on their jobs. Marines could be specialist divers and trumpet players at the same time…well, not exactly at the same time. If I remember rightly, the Queen's laundry came down to the laundry in a special bag – probably washed at night so no-one could see.
I love Edinburgh – shame it is so flipping far away from us!
I know. Sorry about that love!
Ahhh, you've made me so nostalgic for my Edinburgh days with this post! Had a very, very happy ten years there. It's a wonderful city – all the more so when you get sunshine like that! Great to hear the trams are FINALLY moving, even if they don't have any passengers yet! x
They do look very sleek and shiny in the sun.
I thought you might enjoy this post, Ruth x
I've been a few times in the festival when I lived there for weeks as a drama student, but would love to go back and just appreciate it when it is a little quieter. You have shown there are so many interesting things to do, for some reason the Queen's bedroom on the yacht sticks in my head although I am so not a royalist. Would love to meet Greyfrairs Bobby too 🙂
Her bedroom is very understated – she wanted it that way. The decor generally is very chintzy. Fascinating insight into the life of the Royal Family whether you are keen on them or not. I'm just nosey.
I've never been to Scotland although I know we really should rectify that. I'm familiar with the Da Vinci Code book and Rosslyn Chapel through the book, I wonder how similar it is to it's description?
There is so much to do in Scotland! Edinburgh is gorgeous (ssh, don't tell my Glaswegian husband I said that), and would love to see the yacht. Didn't know it was possible. Also the camera obscura sounds great fun.
I have to go back. Period.
So many sights/places I have yet to discover! xx
Looks like a brilliant visit. We love Edinburgh and have just been sent the kiddy book of Greyfriars Bobby for Beth's birthday – makes me a bit weepy I have to admit. Never been to Brittania – what an impressive bit of nautical engineering! #citytripping
I remember seeing the old film about Greyfriars Bobby and it always made me cry.
Britannia was a real treat – quite unexpected.
I keep badgering my husband to take me to Scotland, where he lived when he was a boy. Now I have an ironclad reason — to try out those trams! x
Oh you must, for both your sakes. Scotland has so much to enjoy – cities, mountains, lochs – so many different experiences.
Lovely Edinburgh – an ex-boyfriend of mine lived there so I used to visit regularly while we were together and have been back several more times since but not for years. We had such a great time in Glasgow in 2014, I'd love to take my daughter to Edinburgh too, which I suspect would be a very different experience than my past visits (except the zoo!). Thanks for linking to #citytripping
We have had some great visit to Scotland over the years. We loved Glasgow too – such a different vibe from Edinburgh, both so enjoyable.