Earlier this year readers of the BBC’s Countryfile magazine voted Dumfries and Galloway the ‘Holiday Destination of the Year’ award. You can’t have a more resounding recommendation than an accolade from such a trusted, wonderfully British establishment. John Craven is on the Countryfile team and I’ve believed everything he’s said since avidly watching Newsround as a child.
In writing about our trip I have focused so far on the hotels and wonderful food we’ve eaten. I’ve swooned over breathtaking views, ambrosial cuisine and historical links. You’ll be relieved to know we did manage to tear ourselves away from the trappings of luxury to explore the region. Having early breakfasts allowed us to fit in lots of sightseeing and the route we took from hotel to hotel was planned so we saw the best of what the area has to offer.
As Dumfries and Galloway is the most southerly part of Scotland, it was easy to start exploring on our first day, despite driving from Lincolnshire. What better way to fire up a Scotsman named Douglas, than a visit to Threave Castle, which was built for the Black Douglas family in 1369. This astonishing tower was built by the 3rd Earl of Douglas after becoming Lord Galloway. Named Archibald ‘the Grim’ apparently because of his scary face in battle, the Earl constructed a fitting residence for his family and household but one which was a symbol of power and defensively strong.
Threave Castle is easily reached from the main A75 at Castle Douglas and there is a lovely 15 minute walk from the car park to the jetty where you pick up the boat to take you to the island on which the castle sits. It’s a very short boat ride across the River Dee but there was something very romantic and ethereal about it. In Greek mythology you would pay Charon the ferryman to take souls of the dead across the River Styx to Hades by rowing boat. Here you ring a large bell to call a friendly chap called Malcolm who gives you a life jacket and whisks you off to an island in a little boat with an outboard motor. It only takes a few minutes but it’s quiet, the countryside is beautiful and the castle, which can’t be seen from the car park, is all the more fabulous for its seclusion.
On the day we visited there were a few other families, some having a picnic on the grass, others playing hoopla or garden draughts. The castle is the perfect size for exploration and the right amount of signage gives visitors a clear idea of how things would have looked in medieval times. In its day it was a very contemporary building. It was a five-storey tower with prison, kitchen, hall and bedrooms plus a unique top floor gallery for men at arms. It would have had glazed windows and been decorated lavishly with tapestries. Today you can walk around inside and climb part of the way up, enough for some wonderful views across Dumfries and Galloway. Don’t forget to look down into the prison cell when you’re in the kitchen area (I’m saying no more).
We did laugh at the external latrine chute – or garderobe – which is signposted on the castle walls: brought back memories of a very funny scene from the film Johnny English with Rowan Atkinson. If you don’t remember it, just imagine what gross thing could happen if you climbed up a garderobe to secretly enter a castle.
On the return leg to the car park we took a left to the viewing platform where a couple of volunteers were showing members of the public the osprey nest. With some encouragement and the building of artificial platforms, Threave has been home to ospreys since 2008 and it was wonderful to look through the telescope and see the daddy osprey on the nest with the one remaining chick of four that were hatched this year. Mum and siblings had already migrated. In another few days, all ospreys would have left Threave and headed south for the winter.
Looking back at my photos a few weeks later, it would appear that Threave Castle enjoyed our visit as much as we did. Peeping over Dougie’s shoulder to join us in a group selfie – and is that a smile I see?
Threave Castle is open from March through to October. Prices for 2016 are £4.40 for an adult ticket including boat ride (£2.70 child, free for under 5s). For more details about opening times visit their website. Having worked with Visit Scotland before on a trip to Glasgow and Edinburgh, the team there were happy to provide Dougie and me with a media pass from their partner organisation, ASVA (Association of Scottish Visitor Attractions) to gain complimentary entry into a number of places on our trip, including Threave Castle.
Definitely my kind of castle, that. The sort of place I take the boys to where they can run around, clamber over the ruins and learn one or two bits of history without realising it.
Very reasonable price entry too. Especially with the boat ride thrown in.
I love John Craven too. 🙂
Sometimes old buildings can be exhausting with too much info to take in. This was just enough and made for a lovely afternoon. I agree, the entry price was very good value.
I absolutely love castles and Scotland so this would be right up my street. The Johnny English thing made me giggle. My 5 year old finds him absolutely hilarious. I think I’ll have to remember this place for the next time we go up North 🙂
I did wonder whether anyone would remember the Johnny English film. My son loved it and he’s 20 now!
great castle indeed! #monday escapes
Lovely pics -We haven’t visited that one! So many great castles in Scotland to explore 🙂
It’s a lovely little castle but I think the walk and the boat trip make it extra special.
We have so many plans to explore Scotland and are starting with Loch Lomond in October, I cant wait. I love the feeling of history that visiting castles gives you. Imagining life and times before, It must have been amazing to see the Osprey, Thanks so much for joining up Trish #MondayEscapes x
I think this is a beautiful place and i like that there was barely anybody there when you visited. The latrine thing was so funny! I recently visited a castle in the Czech Republic and the guide point out the ‘restroom.’ The floor was open to the river and the stuff dropped from several meters high (urggg).
So many unsavoury things going on in castles – best not to think about it and usually that’s possible until the evidence is shown to you! I wonder whether they tried to aim from that height…!
Arriving by boat is definitely the way to go imo! #MondayEscapes
It did make it very special as if it was our own private castle or, at least, my husband Douglas reclaiming his property!
We visited Threave, and were lucky enough to see the ospreys too. We hadn’t thought to take binoculars, but luckily enough another visitor was kind enough to lend us theirs. Lovely post, which brings it all back.
Isn’t it a fabulous place! Thankfully the volunteers had their telescope thing with them – just as well as the birds were a long way away!
What a magical place to visit as part of your Scotland adventures. And perfect timing for the last of the Ospreys! Love the smiley castle picture ? #MondayEscapes
It was magical and set the scene for the rest of the week. I hadn’t realised the ospreys would soon be off – we were very lucky to see them.
It looks like such a beautiful area – I have yet to discover this part of Scotland. And fabulous you can go and explore a different side to the Threave Castle via the boat. Love the pic of the castle smiling at you! Think we would love it here. #MondayEscapes
I’m amazed we hadn’t discovered it earlier, with it being so much closer than other areas. It has so much to offer.
I love castles and that looks like such a lovely one to visit! Such a beautiful area. And so lucky that you got to see the ospreys before they flew away!
This part of Scotland has so many old castles and abbeys and it’s hard to know which one to choose to visit. We did love Threave and yes, the ospreys made it an extra special day.