Out of all the hotels on the Luxury Galloway website, the one I was most curious about was Knockinaam Lodge. Built in 1869 as a hunting lodge, its secluded location, on the south-west tip of Scotland, marked it out as a secret hideaway. 30 acres of landscaped grounds, its own private beach and uninterrupted views over to Northern Ireland. This is a place oozing with history and intrigue: the lodge features in John Buchan’s 1915 novel, The Thirty-Nine Steps, and, during World War II, Knockinaam was the location for a secret meeting between Sir Winston Churchill and General Eisenhower plus their Chiefs of Staff.
As we drove down the single track road towards the hotel, at each turn I was waiting for Knockinaam to appear. On the final bend the beach came into view, and then the hotel itself, bathed in sunshine. Residents were sitting in the grounds sipping afternoon tea, beloved dogs snoozing at their feet. Others were drinking champagne near the summer house: a white, wooden building packed full of spare seat pads, racquets and beach toys.
The large croquet lawn was occupied by a small family of rabbits, happily oblivious to their slumbering neighbours. The beach was empty apart from one elderly lady sitting by the sea’s edge, hugging her knees as she looked towards the horizon.
Dougie and I felt we had stepped into another world or driven through some sort of portal back to an age where the upper classes spent weekends at a friend’s country house, arriving with cases and hat boxes piled up in the back of their Bentleys.
Inside, Knockinaam is a glorious, if a little faded, beauty. With antique furnishings and a subdued colour scheme, it appears comfortable in its vintage style. But how could it be any other way?
We were given the key to our room so climbed the stairs, noting how polished everything was. I cast my eyes over the books in the glass-fronted dresser and noted some of the names on the other doors: Whin, South, Hannay. We had chosen to stay in the Churchill room. If we were going to immerse ourselves in the history of Knockinaam, why not do it in style. The room was large, though a little gloomy. I thought it just needed more light so switched on some lamps and stood face to face with the famous man’s portrait which hung above the tiled fireplace. I wasn’t sure I was awfully keen on him looking at me for the duration of the stay and contemplated turning him to face the wall. Dougie told me I was being ridiculous and just to ignore him.
I decided to make use of the 100 year old enamelled bath which I was assured Churchill had wallowed in during his time at Knockinaam. It was huge, with two large copper taps which gushed piping hot water into the tub, taking some while to fill because of its capacious size. I suspect Winston’s frame occupied it rather better than I did: my feet couldn’t touch the end so I was in danger of slithering under the water if I lay back.
The staff at Knockinaam are a credit to the owners, David and Sian Ibbotson: some young, their cheerfulness making up for lack of experience; others a little older and wiser, very down-to-earth and warm. This lack of pretension was very welcome, considering the grandeur of the hotel itself.
At the bar, sitting under an array of mounted deer heads, Dougie perused the extensive whisky menu and chose one which was light enough as an aperitif. I felt compelled to swap from my usual G&T and try a dry sherry – it just felt right somehow. A great deal of people-watching ensued: it was like the cast of a murder mystery and I was sizing up potential perpetrators.
The owner brought us the menu and explained it was fixed but that they could provide alternatives if there was anything we didn’t like. We were more than happy with the proposed meal, knowing that award-winning chef, Tony Pierce, who has presided over many years of Knockinaam having a Michelin star, was responsible for our dinner that night.
There are no photos of the dinner. I didn’t feel it was the kind of place where Instagramming your food was appropriate though I’m sure no-one would have criticised me. You’ll have to just trust me when I say the meal was delicious: small, delicate portions served in an exquisite dining room with sparkling glasses and thoroughly-polished silverware.
We had coffee and petits fours served to us in the drawing room. Easing ourselves back into the well-loved sofas we thumbed through a number of magazines and more books before taking the stairs back up to see Winston and falling asleep effortlessly in the supremely comfortable sleigh bed.
The custom in the hotel is to bring early morning coffee or tea to rooms rather than provide guests with a kettle. I’m not a fan of greeting strangers at the door whilst looking dishevelled so we turned down the offer of an early cuppa. We watched morning telly, I made use of the free WiFi (yes, even here!) and we were first down to breakfast, bagging the window seat with the fabulous views of the lawns and the beach.
As we set off later that morning to visit Culzean Castle further up the coast, I couldn’t contain my excitement knowing that, come 4 o’ clock, the whole wonderful ritual of staying at Knockinaam Lodge would begin all over again.
Knockinaam Lodge, Portpatrick, Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland DG9 9AD
ooh I’m enjoying reading about all these luxury hotels! This place looks stately and magnificent (but I’m glad Churchill’s portrait wasn’t actually in the bathroom with you!)
I think a need a cheapie holiday next as this was a pricey one! Oh imagine him in the bathroom – in fact, no, don’t imagine him there!
Sounds like a lovely experience at the lodge by the sea. Love old homes which have stories to tell.
It was a real treat, Ahila. Very different to the contemporary hotels we often pick but the stories made it worthwhile.
Hi Trish,
Feeling awesome to look these marvelous luxurious hotels. When I’ll get an opportunity to stay such luxurious hotels in life? This places looks spectacular and surrounded with beautiful nature. Who don’t want to live such stately place?
This is situated in fabulous densely litigants that makes it perfect. Also, there is a beach beside the hotel and that offers to come visitor more and more. Looking the bar and interior design of this hotel is awesome. Entering in this hotel, I think no one will forget about this hotel by the end of life.
Thanks for introducing.
– Ravi.
Hi Ravi, thanks so much for popping over and commenting. It really was a very special place and you’re right, I won’t forget it.
I just love this, Trish! Love that slightly faded, old-fashioned elegance and I’d have had to have tea brought to me in the morning for that Downton Abbey feeling… Churchill’s bath sounds like quite an experience. Not sure I’d have been happy to have him staring down at me in the bedroom either.
Maybe I should have had the tea thing just to immerse myself completely in the whole experience.
Thankfully it was a big room so once I had gone to bed and taken my specs off I couldn’t see him (so I’m sure he couldn’t have seen me… 😉
beautiful photos! #mondayescapes
Thanks Tanja – the weather helped!
It all looks so regal and like its paused in time a bit. I didn’t know that about Churchill. When I saw the title I thought it was going to be something about Blenheim. I’ve never been to that part of Scotland though but I feel like I want to at least pop in to see it now. /)
That’s just it – paused in time.
We hadn’t been to Dumfries and Galloway either but were so delighted we visited as it was wonderful.
Yes, you could pop in for tea 🙂
Oh my, this is right up Mr TB’s street. He would have been very happy with the whisky bar. I think I would have preferred a G&T too 🙂 This sounds like the perfect couple’s retreat! Thanks so much for linking up with the new #MondayEscapes. Hope you can make it again next time!
We’d make a good foursome with our penchant for whisky and gin!
Interestingly, they have now created a two-bedroomed self catering lodge which looks gorgeous – plus there’s a treehouse for children in the grounds. So maybe not just for couples.
What a wonderful and special place that looks. I think it would be amazing to stay somewhere Churchill had stayed and wonder what they all got up to! #MondayEscapes
When we were sitting in the gardens we kept imagining the sort of conversations which would have taken place. It was quite thrilling.
Trish it looks incredible, so old and grand with such incredible views. I would love to go here and sip champagne on the lawn and take a good book and just chill out, maybe sit and watch the sunset at night and get a few shots as the sun goes down and just the history of it all makes it all the more appealing x #mondayescapes
That’s just what we did in the late afternoon and evening – sat with a book and nodded off every so often. I’m so glad we decided on this hotel and the others in the group – something special about each of them and we’ll never forget this holiday.
What a beautiful looking hotel and those views are stunning! This looks like such a lovely place to stay.
We were so lucky with fantastic weather too but I can just imagine a winter night, all cosied up by the fire. Maybe a winter trip is worth doing so I can return!
Oh my, what a marvelous place to be! The beach and the 1869 Lodge with an award-winning chef, oh my, oh my! Such way to spend a morning like you did, but I think the cuppa must be great too;)! #MondayEscapes
It really was very special and the food was delicious. I’ll need to go back for that cup of tea though 😉
Oh my goodness, it’s straight out of an Agatha Christie novel. Amazing! My husband would be staggered by the history while I would probably join you in a sherry.
Isn’t it just! I was tempted to create my own story and base it on Knockinaam: it’s the perfect place for some intrigue.
The sherry was lovely – I had been on the gin all week haha!
Trish this sounds incredible. You paint the picture beautifully from your arrival at the property through to bathing in Churchill’s bath! I love the idea of coffee and petit fours in the drawing room, wow! Thanks for linking up with the new #MondayEscapes 😉
So pleased you enjoyed the post – we had a fabulous time there.
Great to have the Monday Escapes linky in such safe hands as it’s a great place to share our travels.
Oh my, that hotel looks amazing! I’m a sucker for a bit of Agatha Christie etc so my imagination would be working overtime in a place like that! I feel like I’m missing out not having a drawing room to take my coffee in. Loved reading this pos:-) #mondayescapes
My imagination ran riot too. I do think we should retire to the drawing room with coffee of an evening: just pretend we’ve not got the telly on in the corner or that we’re munching on a KitKat!
I’m loving your posts about Dumfries and Galloway and think this might be my favourite yet – I was sold on the morning tea! It sounds quite glorious.
It was rather lovely – it felt very surreal at times and the characters staying there made it fantastic for people-watching.
Like stepping back in time in the best way… You know I am a huge Winston Churchill fan (it is Bruno’s middle name after all!), but that painting with him staring at me would unnerve me too! 😀 x
I didn’t know you were a fan. The you must go here, Emma, and take Bruno too – there’s a fab self-catering cottage for families in the grounds. x