It was hard to say goodbye to Shingle Lodge in Knockinaam. It had been our idyllic hideaway on the western coast of Scotland but we were looking forward to moving on, spending a night at the Blackaddie Hotel, another favourite from our previous visit to Dumfries and Galloway.
We had no real plan for the day, only knowing that it ended in Sanquhar and a fabulous meal from Scotland’s Chef of the Year, Ian McAndrew. We could reach it by driving across the Galloway forest or take the coastal route up to Ayrshire then cut across. The weather was gorgeous so we opted for the coast, knowing the road hugs the sea for most of the way, allowing for lovely views across to the Isle of Arran and the southern tip of the Kintyre peninsula.
We stopped at Lendalfoot where there is a memorial to the Russian cruiser, Varyag. The ship was part of the Battle of Chemulpo Bay in 1904 at the beginning of the Russo-Japanese war. When up against five Japanese cruisers, rather than surrender, the captain decided to sink the ship. The Varyag passed into Japanese hands, back to Russian ownership and was eventually seized by Britain. It ran aground on rocks near Lendalfoot in 1920.
Looking out to sea at this point, the appealing dome-shape of Ailsa Craig was visible, 10 miles off the coast. This small but beautifully-formed volcanic outcrop has a nickname, Paddy’s Milestone, as it was a haven for Roman Catholics during the Scottish Reformation in the 16th century. It’s now a haven for birds, particularly gannets and puffins. The rare granite from Ailsa Craig produces over half of the world’s curling stones.
Here, looking pensive and moody, Rory met Ailsa…
Further on up the coast we drove past Trump Turnberry, the luxury resort/golf course now sporting the recognisable black and gold branding of the US President. It took me by surprise when we saw it last year and I still ‘wowed’ when we came across it this time. The hotel is vast and looks as if it should be in Disneyland or Las Vegas, not on the empty coastline of Scotland.
A few miles further on and we spotted signs for Burns’ Cottage in the village of Alloway. Dougie and I had immersed ourselves in all things Burns on our previous visit to Dumfries, seeing where he lived in his final years and taking a look at the mausoleum where he is laid to rest. It seemed fitting, therefore, to have a look around Alloway, where the great man was born.
Alloway was a revelation. Such a pretty place, looking even more delightful in the warm sunshine. We made our way to the car park at the Robert Burns Birthplace Museum which houses a very contemporary visitors’ centre with a great café, gardens and museum. Rory made a beeline for a haggis and cheese panini which I was surprised even existed as a thing! Scotch Broth for Dougie and a scone for me. We sat outside and examined the National Trust for Scotland leaflet which explained what there was to see here. A lot, apparently.
The museum itself is modern but quite dark and kept at a cool temperature to protect the books and letters on display. There were some quite bizarre activities to entertain kids like me. I had a go at making a silhouette portrait of myself – having two goes to avoid a double-chin the second time. You can also design a biscuit tin lid, creating a face which can either resemble Burns…or not. Mine was not. There’s also a push button ‘Auld Lang Syne’ game where you have to join in a circle of digital revellers and make sure you keep to time with the song – strange but quite funny.
From the museum we walked a few yards, through beautiful gardens, to the Burns Monument. Sponsors who have donated money to protect the monument have a metal rose attached to the railings as a thank you.
Across the road is Alloway Old Kirk where Burns father and sister lie buried. It dates back to the 16th century and is the scene of the witches dance in Burn’s poem, Tam o’ Shanter. It’s now a very tranquil setting and has been renovated in recent years, reopening to visitors in 2008.
A little further on we reached Brig o’ Doon, the most picturesque little bridge, also made famous in Burns’ poem, Tam o’ Shanter. It’s the setting for the final scene where Tam is being chased by Nannie the witch. He escapes but his horse Meg loses her tail. The musical, Brigadoon, also takes its name from this scenic location.
More references to Burns’ poems can be seen on the Poet’s path. There’s a ‘wee, sleekit, cowran, tim’rous beastie’ but this mouse is neither wee nor tim’rous. In fact I’d say towrin’ not cowran. We found a large stone haggis and a sculptured fox, free from his chains, referencing the poem about Glenriddell’s fox.
I also loved the wooden seat which you can sit on while you wait for the little bus to take you from each part of the Alloway experience if you don’t fancy the short walk. It’s called Burns’ Birthplace Bus Stop, Book Bank, Bench. Rest your legs, borrow a book and wait for the bus. How wonderful is that.
At the far end of the walking trail we reached Burns’ cottage, passing a beautiful, natural sculpture dedicated to Tam and Meg. Robert Burns was born here in 1759. Dougie remembered he had visited as a child. It was only when we returned home after the holiday that we found a photo which proved this was indeed true. 50 years apart, Dougie appears outside the cottage: with his mum, Emily, in the first photo and his son, Rory in the second. If only we’d known exactly how the two were configured in the first photo, we might have recreated it in the second!
The few hours we spent in Alloway were wonderful. If you’re a member of the National Trust of Scotland you can freely follow the footsteps of the Bard around the village. If not, check prices here for entry to the museum and cottage. You can, however, just walk around the village, see the outside of the cottage and have refreshments in the visitors’ centre. Whether you’re a big fan of Burns or not, it’s an absolutely lovely day out.
Gorgeous, so picturesque. What a beautiful area. Love the sound of the bizarre Burns activities. 🙂
I don’t quite know what we were expecting, Sarah, but the way all the Burns elements were linked together in the village was wonderful. A real treat.
The activities were a bit mad. Thankfully a few sensible ones too. I’ve just remembered I put some headphones on and listened to a beautiful recording of Ae Fond Kiss. But how does that compare to creating your own biscuit tin lid?!
Sorry, the biscuit tin wins easily. I grew up with my gran’s tins so it would be a fab activity! 🙂
Shame it was only a digital biscuit tin. I’d have loved to have kept my shortbread in a tin with the face I created!
Sounds lovely Trish , haven’t been for years and years ! Are you coming any further North on your road trip?
By the way Harry starts at Dundee to do Project Design next week . Moving him in on Friday…..18 years of my life seem to have vanished!
Ooh spooky – I was just thinking of you this morning and wondering about Harry. Exciting times ahead.
Unfortunately we didn’t go any further north on the trip. We met up with Dougie’s cousin and uncle in Peebles then visited my mum on the way home. But we seem to keep returning to Scotland so will be back soon. xx
I’m from the UK but am yet to get to Alloway. It’s been great to learn about Burns. Your photos are fab. Alloway is definitely on my radar now x #FarawayFiles
There’s so much in the UK I still haven’t got round to seeing either. We’re lucky to have so many beautiful parts to explore. But if you’re ever heading up to Scotland, I can vouch for Alloway.
Lovely spot indeed. When my husband was courting me, he took me to see the musical Brigadoon way back when in Seattle Washington. I wasn’t the hugest fan, not knowing the story, but maybe after visiting this idyllic spot, I might feel a wee bit differently! Love the sculptures. Thanks for sharing with #FarawayFiles, Erin
I vaguely remember watching the film version of Brigadoon with my mum. Our Amateur Dramatic group were going to perform it some years ago – but it was rejected and we performed The Witches of Eastwick instead!
Sounds like an amazing road trip! Scottish hubby wooed me with Robert Burns poems … I didn’t know there was a museum. I must visit!
Oh then you would love to go to the museum and hear others sing and speak those same poems. Put it on your list, Susanna!
I didn’t know that about curling stones and I quite fancy making a silhouette! #FarawayFiles
That was one of my husband’s little nuggets of information. Of course, I checked to see if he was right and he was! They email the silhouette to you afterwards, as well as showing it on the screen in the museum. Have started doing chin exercises!
It sounds as though they’ve done a brilliant job here of creating a Burns experience for all the visitors to the cottage where he was born. I love how immersive and child friendly it all sounds. And as for that bus stop where you pick up a book while you’re waiting – just perfect! Great share for #FarawayFiles
It’s a very family-friendly attraction. There’s a leaflet showing how all the places link together and it’s small town, so it’s great for little legs. I think more bus stops should have a box full of books!
I do like travel days where you have no particular plans except to explore and see where the road takes you – it would be hard to have topped this though. What a perfect Scottish stop, from the haggis to the giant mouse – such a beautiful part of the world #farawayfiles
It makes it all the more pleasurable to know you made a great choice, when it could have gone so differently if we’d just driven past the junction!
How wonderful, and I am such a big fan of Brigadoon the musical, what a fun little surprise! #farawayfiles
Good to hear you’re a fan of the musical. If ever you’re up in Scotland, this would be a super place to go.
I like when places related to an artist’s life conserve the actual spots or object that helped inspire the artist at one point in time. I think it is very emotional when you get to see the place or object. I love that little bridge! #FarawayFiles
You’re so right, Ruth. It brings the piece of art, poem, novel to life when you can see the inspiration behind it. I was so surprised to see the bridge – I knew the cottage was there but this was an unexpected treat.
Interesting place – love all the things to do at the museum, as well as all the quirky little sculptures scattered about. Great find! Especially the haggis panini.
I think that’s why it appealed so much – the variation of things to see and the quirkiness of everything. My son adores haggis and this version was a big hit!
The museum sounds great – quirky and with a lot to do. But the whole trip sounds lovely to be honest. Although I’m not sure about a haggis and cheese panini…
It’s an acquired taste – one he acquired many years ago! I think your family would love Alloway and its attractions, Sarah. We were entranced by it.
I love Scotland so much. I feel like we have seen so much yet when I read your post we have so much more to do and see. Your photos are beautiful, and I love the Burns birthplace bus stop, borrow a book or watch the world go by and wait for the bus, how pleasant is that!? Lovely xx
Ah yes, this is just up your street, Katy. I know how you love Scotland. Sorry (not sorry) for adding to your list of places to go! 😉
I was as surprised as you by the haggis and cheese paninis, but boy, are they delicious! I lived on them when I was in Dumfries and Galloway – as well as jacket potato with haggis and cheese. Great post – I love all the detail.
Another haggis fan, yay! I think I might serve up the haggis with jacket potato for my boys – we had it with chicken last night.
What a wonderful day. The last time I was in this part of the world was for a wedding and there were pictures on Brig ‘o’ Doon. It would be great to go back with more time to appreciate the place and it’s links to Burns
A beautiful location for a wedding. We were so fortunate with the weather but then we were last year too. Always a chance of rain , though it tends to be warm rain with the Gulf Stream!
and you had such amazing weather too. What a fab day out. I keep saying we have to go to Scotland next year but we really must!
Yes, you must! It’s been voted most beautiful country by Rough Guides recently – all the more reason to check it out and see if it’s true.