There was one small problem we had with Coimbra, even before we arrived. How to pronounce it. I thought it was kwom-bra or maybe koym-bra. I checked online and various audio files seemed to suggest it was kwi-br, kwem-br or kweem-br. We made a point of contriving not to say it at all during our stay.
The second part of our Inntravel ‘On The Waterfront’ holiday began with a smooth taxi ride from our hotel in Porto to the railway station. In this short journey we learned all about the vagaries of the Portuguese taxi system from our very affable driver. It’s far more expensive to take a taxi from the airport to the city centre than vice versa because the tariff is much higher on an airport start. He suggested it usually works out cheaper to order your taxi to come from the centre to collect you than it is to pick up a cab at the airport itself, despite it being double the distance. A tip worth remembering for next time.
Inntravel had already booked our tickets and reserved seats on a very civilised mid-morning intercity train to Coimbra. An hour later we were in the back of our second taxi of the day. We reckoned this one was auditioning to be the next Jason Statham in a Portuguese version of Transporter.
Two nights of luxury were about to begin at the Quinta das Lágrimas, a boutique hotel, part of the ‘Small Luxury Hotels of the World’ group. You can read about the history of the palace and its grounds in a previous post about the lovers Pedro and Inês.
We were upgraded to a suite in one of the garden rooms. It had a separate living room and a little balcony, with french doors leading out to the gardens. I could imagine how fabulous this would be in warmer months, slipping out of the doors across to the outdoor swimming pool or catching the sun in the Japanese garden. But the dark evenings of January had their own benefits – the bar, which was decorated with dark green walls like a sophisticated gentleman’s club, had a roaring log fire. The perfect place to sip the complimentary residents’ cocktail before dinner.
Visiting midweek in low season does make you feel you have the run of the place. We ordered afternoon tea in the music room and had the whole room to ourselves. Hot chocolate in the lounge? Of course, where would you like to sit? We spent an hour or so by the indoor pool at the Bamboo Spa and had the choice of beds. We chose to have our evening meals on both nights in the restaurant, Arcadas, which is noted in the Michelin Guide, and experienced the most attentive service as well as sublime food. Even the lovely waitress at breakfast was pressing Pasteis de Nata into our hands as we headed off for the day. Is this how visiting royalty feel?
On our first afternoon in Coimbra we braved the drizzle and headed over the river to the main part of the city. In Porto we had gone a little off-piste from our walking trails provided by Inntravel, preferring to pick out some highlights and just find our own way. In Coimbra I insisted we follow the trail and took great delight in being lead scout, with a map in one pocket and the instructions in the other. Husband Dougie, who had led me astray in Porto, behaved himself and followed my lead.
The trail took us through ancient toll-gates, pretty squares and a shortcut through the market which, unfortunately, had just closed for the day. A cleaner, washing down the tiles of the fish market, was rather surprised to see two determined walkers sloshing their way across her recently mopped floor. We smiled, nodded and headed for the exit.
At the very top of the steep hill we reached the heart of the historic university of Coimbra. We were perplexed to find the university area rather lacking in students as we walked around. It was only when we stumbled into the vast quadrangle that we discovered where everyone had been hiding. There was a huge ceremony taking place: the President of Greece was accepting an honorary degree. Having wandered past a number of armed security guards and sleek government vehicles, we joined the crowds waiting outside the Joanine Library.
With perfect timing, the doors opened, the band struck up a tune and all the dignitaries poured out of the building. It was the most astonishing sight. I don’t think I have ever seen such splendid robes and headgear. Thoughts of candlewick bedspreads and tasselled lampshades came to mind as they walked past the chapel and up the steps to the ceremonial hall.
Cheered by this colourful sight, we remained in the quadrangle and admired a statue of Henry VIII. The plaque told me it was, in fact, Dom João III, King of Portugal from 1521-1557. Hmm. Maybe they had the same tailor?
The following day we revisited the university in order to look around the inside of the buildings which had been closed off to us the day before. The Joanine Library was my stand-out favourite with its magnificent ceilings and bat stories (see previous post) but we were also delighted to look around St Michael’s Chapel. We entered via the grand portal, decorated in Manueline style typical of many Portuguese buildings – grand pillars with intertwining sea symbols. To enter the chapel itself you need to knock on the wooden door or press a bell and wait for someone to let you in. Most visitors are keen to see the baroque organ dated from 1733 and interior walls decorated with thousands of tiles.
We enjoyed a budget lunch in one of the students’ cafes and continued our tour of the quadrangle buildings. Our hearts stopped when we peered through an upstairs window into the Grand Hall. The dignitaries from yesterday had departed and instead there was a lone figure, sitting across from a group of examiners, taking his PHD oral exam with a small group of family members watching in the audience. Dougie and I were immediately transported back to our own university days and we broke out into a sweat as we watched the poor chap being quizzed.
I do hope he passed with flying colours and was able to don a colourful shawl of his own…and maybe a fancy hat.
Disclosure: We booked our own holiday with Inntravel but were offered a discount in exchange for a review of the trip. All opinions are my own.
Inntravel (inntravel.co.uk 01653 617000) offers On the Waterfront, a walking and rail discovery of Portugal’s three great cities, Lisbon, Coimbra & Porto from £580pp based on two sharing including 6 nights’ B&B in 4-star hotels, self-guided city walking tours, and rail journeys Lisbon to Coimbra & Coimbra to Porto. Available 2 January-24 December. Flights (cost extra) into Lisbon and out Porto. The holiday can be taken in the opposite direction, flying into Porto and out Lisbon
What an amazing thing to stumble upon! I was already sold upon this just by reading about the gorgeous sounding hotel, but love the idea of the pomp and ceremony you saw too.
It made the whole stay so much more special and of course, so much more memorable.
I love stumbling across events that are happening and looks like you had an amazing view. Did you ever manage to find the correct pronunciation?
I think it’s all of them combined and said quickly! 😉
Those hats are incredible Trish. What a great event to experience. Well done on the map reading and guidance. You are deserving of a scout badge! The hotel looks fabulous. That’s where I’d like to stay when we go…because I’m sure we will. It looks like a great city!
Ooh I like the idea of a scout badge!
I’d love to return when the sun was shining – that’s all that was missing and I think we were just unlucky. The hotel would be fantastic in the summer.
What a stunning place! I would absolutely love to stay in that hotel too (right now actually!). That ceremony looks intriguing. Makes me sad we don’t have so many in the UK. Mind you I did see some morris dancers the other day, and the kids were quite confused about the concept! 😀
Rory has his graduation coming up in the summer (assuming he passes!) so we’ll see what they wear. I can imagine what he would say if he had to wear one of these hats though!!
Even after all the dressing up in Munich, your kids were confused by Morris dancers! Ha!
What a great moment to stumble across – those hats are marvellous (and a lot more cheerful than a mortar board!). A useful tip about the taxis too. Thanks for linking up with #citytripping
Mortar boards are just too flat, I think! We really need some of these amazing hats in the UK.
Those academic outfits are brilliant, tea cosy springs to mind for me and then teletubbies! I love stumbling across unexpected occasions like this. And as for pronouncing Portugese, well….let’s just say I get you remaining silent, I felt like that too in Portugal last year (and Poland…and Hungary!) #farawayfiles
Yes – teacosies!
Agree, stay silent or speak very quickly ?
I might go ahead and do a PhD if I get to wear one of those incredible outfits. What a fantastic experience. I am loving all your posts about this trip Trish. Thanks for sharing on #farawayfiles
It would certainly spur me on to revise, Katy.
So glad you are enjoying the posts. They’ve been fun to write as there was so much to tell everyone about.
cool outfits! lucky coincidence that you managed to see them: ) #farawayfiles
So lucky!
Seriously amusing but charming and colorful costumes! What a beautiful place – I love the tiles. Thank you for sharing with #FarawayFiles, Erin
We couldn’t get enough of these Portuguese tiles – they were everywhere.
I love Portugal! My family is from there and every chance I get I go to visit the extended family that still lives there. It’s great you went to Coimbra – not many tourist go there but it’s an amazing city. My parents grew up in the city of Cantanhede which is about 20 minute drive from Coimbra. They have some great university traditions and festivals… around the end of the year, the graduates all burn their school ribbons in a ceremony called Queimada das Fitas. That university is also the oldest in Europe (I believe). #farawayfiles
Oh you must be very familiar with Coimbra. You’re so lucky to have family in Portugal to visit. We loved the country.
The history of the city and its university really interested me. Such a small place with a fascinating past – but that’s not unlike Cambridge I suppose, small market town now but has been the seat of learning for centuries.
Yes – I mentioned it was (probably) the oldest in a previous post – I gather they kept moving its location from Lisbon to Coimbra over the early years until it eventually stayed put in Coimbra in 1537.
Thanks so much for commenting, Lillian 🙂
I love those outfits #farawayfiles
Thanks – they certainly brightened up a drizzly day.
They look like they’re wearing my granny’s tea cosies on their heads!! What a great discovery though, Trish! I do love it when you stumble across something as intriguing and colourful as this on your travels. It’s almost more special for being by chance rather than design. Thanks for sharing with us on #farawayfiles
Your granny must be a lover of tea cosies like Phoebe’s! I think that’s spot on. And yes, it was definitely more special because it was unexpected.
Glad you enjoyed your visit, it sounds like a fantastic hotel. We used to live close to Coimbra and enjoyed visiting. The uni library is really special. #farawayflies
How fantastic to have live near to such a wonderful little city. The library took our breath away.
So beautiful! And that hotel looks very over the top (which is nice). The good thing about speaking Spanish is that we have no problems pronouncing Portuguese words (well, at least that is why I think). Plus, people who speak Portuguese understand Spanish very well. #FarawayFiles
The hotel was very special. I would certainly love to return one day. Maybe I’ll take you with me to translate and speak for me? 😉
Interesting tip about the taxi – that’s a helpful tip to know. I also loved how beautiful that boutique hotel looked, both inside and out!
I suspect the taxi tariff is the same for other cities in Portugal – it was certainly true for our return journey to Lisbon airport – much cheaper than we’d expected.
I loved your previous post on Pedro and Ines and their connection to Quinta das Lágrimas. And, it is wonderful to see the interior of the convent turned boutique hotel in this post. Coimbra has definitely been added to my list of places to visit within Portugal. And, Inntravel’s On the waterfront package sounds lovely #CityTripping
I don’t think I would have thought of visiting the three cities in one trip so when I saw it on Inntravel’s website I was very interested. The original package has two nights in each city but we added an extra nights onto Porto and Lisbon which was well worth doing.