In 1822 JMW Turner painted this view of the Lune Valley from a spot just behind St Mary the Virgin church in Kirkby Lonsdale, Cumbria. Art critic and social theorist, John Ruskin, was moved to write, “I do not know in all my country, still less in France or Italy, a place more naturally divine.” Later, in 1875 he said it was ‘one of the loveliest views in England, therefore in the world.”
The weather wasn’t quite perfect enough for my photograph of ‘Ruskin’s View’ but there’s no denying it is a pretty vista; the meandering River Lune in wooded countryside with hills of the Yorkshire Dales in the distance.
Kirkby Lonsdale is a picturesque little town, nestling in between the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales. We had arrived in time for lunch and were spoilt for choice, opting for the warmth and cosiness of the Lunesdale Bakery for some Scotch Broth and thick slices of freshly made bread.
Having admired the view from Church Brow we took the Radical Steps down to the river. 86 steps, oddly sized which makes walking down them a little difficult as it’s hard to establish a rhythm. They were called the Radical Steps because of the political leanings of Francis Pearson, who built them in 1820. Pearson had obtained an order to divert a public footpath that ran through his garden: the steps replaced the path. Was Pearson the first NIMBY or have they always existed?
At the bottom of the steps, we followed the river Lune along a path which has recently been made even more accessible for walkers. The sun came out and streamed through the branches of the nearby trees to create rippled patterns on the water.
Following the river further round, the next view we spied was of Devil’s Bridge. Legend has it that the devil appeared to an old woman and agreed to build a bridge across the river in exchange for the first soul to cross it. Fortunately she was a wise old bird so, when the bridge was complete, she threw bread down so that her dog chased it onto the bridge, therefore outwitting old Lucifer. I suspect the real history of the bridge is that it was constructed in 1370 by the monks of St Mary’s Abbey in York but why let the truth get in the way of a good story.
I wonder if Ruskin had walked along to Devil’s Bridge whether he would have preferred this view. Of course he wouldn’t have seen the bright scarlet additions to the scene as we did. This spot is a favourite with scuba divers and kayakers because of the easy access and deep pools on this stretch of the river. Dougie and I spent a while admiring the view and watching the efforts of the red and black visitors who took turns to swim and scramble from one bank of the river to the other.
If Ruskin had been partial to fish and chips, he might have been keen to visit The Big Chip Café in the village of Arnside on the Cumbrian coast. If he had partaken in a delicious serving of haddock and chips with a portion of mushy peas then, mug of tea in hand, looked out over the estuary of the River Kent just as the sun was setting, he would have been rewarded with the following sight. Another possible contender for ‘one of the loveliest views in England’?
The following day we travelled north to Lake Windermere and Blackwell House, a remarkable Arts & Crafts house which has been lovingly restored to its turn of the century beauty. Designed by architect MH Baillie Scott as a holiday home for Sir Edward Holt and his family, Blackwell’s position above the lake is truly stunning. The architect made sure rooms were designed with large windows facing the lake and cushioned window seats exist to ensure that visitors today can also enjoy the breathtaking panorama. If only Ruskin had been around to see this view, I think he would have congratulated Baillie Scott and taken up residence with the Holt family, at least for the summer holidays.
During our stay in Cumbria and Lancashire we were given complimentary accommodation in a luxury lodge at South Lakeland Leisure Village and a Woodland Retreat pod at Fell End Holiday Park. Kirkby Lonsdale, Arnside and Blackwell House are all very easy to drive to from the accommodation.
Lovely views indeed. I love the Lake District. Haven’t been there for years though. Decades even. We used to go every year when I was a child.
Must admit we hadn’t been for a long time either. I think we had been put off as it had been so busy. Out of season it was lovely.
I’m lucky enough to have relatives in KL and I used to spend every summer there running wild… We used to call those steps down to the river “The 99 Steps” (obviously not based on fact!). Back then it was all second-hand bookshops and antique shops and it has now got very boutique-y, but that’s progress.; it’s still lovely. Kids used to jump off Devil’s Bridge in the summer and I swam in the river a few times. It was idyllic. Your pictures are lovely
What a fantastic place to spend your summers. I couldn’t believe how many places there were to eat – you could spend a week there and never go to the same place twice. I like the idea of the 99 steps – anything with a 99 in always appeals to me as I associate it with a chocolate flake!
so beautiful! #mondayescapes
Yes – and with fantastic weather to show everything at its best.
What a gorgeous collection of views and I just love Cumbria, especially Lake Windermere. It’s our go to place when we want a nice day out. I haven’t been to the other places but I now will. They look like stunning places to visit!
I would highly recommend Blackwell House. I will try and write a separate post on it – the interiors are so beautiful.
You know you’re in for a visual treat when you’re visiting a place that inspired artists. Cumbria really is stunning – I wish I knew it better. #MondayEscapes
We had a wonderful time here and could easily have stayed longer to explore more of the Dales and the Lake District. It was hard to choose what to do and what to leave out.
It isn’t an area I know very well but you do make it look very beautiful and clearly those before you thought it worthy of paining so it must be impressive.
We have been to the Lakes a number of times but this area, in between the Lakes and the Dales really did have its own charm. It’s a fantastic place for a holiday as so many places are so close.
I did check if Kirkby Lonsdale was in England and thankfully Wikipeadia agrees. Phew.
I expect to be censored, due lack of continuity in commenting, even if funny,….. perhaps funny,……. a little bit funny.
Ha! I kept checking the map to see which county all these places were located. Trust me to be on the borders of Cumbria, Lancashire and Yorkshire. No censoring today, Bryce – keep it coming as you’re always a little bit funny 😉
What absolutely stunning views. It’s such a nice idea to theme a getaway around art or the artist’s world. This is really inspiring. #MondayEscapes
It was interesting that the few days seemed to create this theme of art and views. It wasn’t intentional but as Ruskin’s view was the first place we stopped, the rest followed on.
What a collection of amazing views. I think Ruskin would have been slightly overwhelmed if he was a Mum’s Gone to reader 🙂 Thanks for linking up with #MondayEscapes again!
I’m laughing at the idea of Ruskin reading my blog and changing his mind.
What a beautiful country we live in! There are so many beautiful vistas to admire, hopefully plenty of places for us to explore! I’ve never visited Kirkby Lonsdale, so definitely one for future trip! #MondayEscapes
I have had a great year for exploring more of the UK and it has been a revelation – so many wonderful places, I agree.
I love the Lake District, and have spent some time in Arnside so I know how beautiful this part of the world is. We haven’t been to Kirby Lonsdale before, but I have seen it on the map so I will have to bear it in mind for our next visit over there. #mondayescapes
I’ve visited the Lakes a number of times but hadn’t ventured to the coast at Arnside so that was a real surprise. I also remember going to the Dales but, like you, Kirkby Lonsdale wasn’t on my radar. It really is lovely.
Such gorgeous pictures, I have heard the story of Devils bridge before it’s so fab.And what a stunning spot, its not too far from us and such a beautiful part of the world x
We were blessed with good weather but it really was superb – picturesque scenes everywhere.
I’ve wanted to visit the Lakeside District ever since I read Pride & Prejudice! It looks just as lovely as I imagined! #CityTripping
The Lakes are beautiful and so are the areas around there – the Yorkshire Dales and the coast.
Such an utterly beautiful area. When expats think of England as busy cities (or indeed just London) I often tell them to visit areas like this! Love your photos! 🙂
I have seen so many lovely parts of the UK this year and it really is a beautiful country.